Side Pipe Muffflers Questions....
12-02-2008, 07:52 PM
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
I have a "jigsaw special" 
I'd like to maybe get a hi-rise hood someday but they aren't cheap and its not on the top of my list.
Additionally, sometimes on residential streets it can be an annoyance looking around the air cleaner so as to not mow down any children. It's not bad, but its there, I mean you sit so low in the car to start with. I think a high rise hood is only going to make it worse.
Pics in album in profile if you're interested- it really doesnt look that bad.
I would be interested in what others have done though, as all the hoods out there dont really seem to add that much clearance.
I'd like to maybe get a hi-rise hood someday but they aren't cheap and its not on the top of my list.
Additionally, sometimes on residential streets it can be an annoyance looking around the air cleaner so as to not mow down any children. It's not bad, but its there, I mean you sit so low in the car to start with. I think a high rise hood is only going to make it worse.
Pics in album in profile if you're interested- it really doesnt look that bad.
I would be interested in what others have done though, as all the hoods out there dont really seem to add that much clearance.
12-02-2008, 09:20 PM
#22
12-02-2008, 09:33 PM
#23
No, I dont, but I zoomed 3 of them and uploaded them for you. The car is actually apart right now for a new engine or I would take some for you. The hood is in my house if you want some shots of it. The previous owner did a pretty good job with it. It looks bigger in the back, but its really not. Its because the front of the air cleaner has that shield on it and only the rear part is open.
It is slightly off center- which took me a while to figure out that the engine is not centered in the chassis because ot the steering gear. It's not real noticable- maybe an inch.
It is slightly off center- which took me a while to figure out that the engine is not centered in the chassis because ot the steering gear. It's not real noticable- maybe an inch.
12-02-2008, 09:36 PM
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
No, I dont, but I zoomed 3 of them and uploaded them for you. The car is actually apart right now for a new engine or I would take some for you. The hood is in my house if you want some shots of it. The previous owner did a pretty good job with it. It looks bigger in the back, but its really not. Its because the front of the air cleaner has that shield on it and only the rear part is open.
It is slightly off center- which took me a while to figure out that the engine is not centered in the chassis because ot the steering gear. It's not real noticable- maybe an inch.
It is slightly off center- which took me a while to figure out that the engine is not centered in the chassis because ot the steering gear. It's not real noticable- maybe an inch.
I am evaluating my 500 hp/500ft lbs options between something like a 144 blower, a vortech sidemounted supercharger or just a stout build-up. Then I gotta figure out how to keep it under a hood or just go hoodless for a while.
12-02-2008, 09:54 PM
#25
Although easier to keep under the hood (plumbing issues aside), I've read that the centrifugal blowers take a bit longer to build up the boost.
You could probably achieve your goal going NA, but I wonder if the cam wouldn't be so big that you'd have streetability issues.
Mine is a 144 B&M, same thing as a Weiand. I love it, its instant on, and the blower whine when you nail it is almost unearthly. Besides, nothing says "fast car" than just....couldnt...fit it...under the hood!
The one benefit I see to centrifugal blowers is the easier ability to intercool, which seems pretty non-existent with a roots type.
You could probably achieve your goal going NA, but I wonder if the cam wouldn't be so big that you'd have streetability issues.
Mine is a 144 B&M, same thing as a Weiand. I love it, its instant on, and the blower whine when you nail it is almost unearthly. Besides, nothing says "fast car" than just....couldnt...fit it...under the hood!
The one benefit I see to centrifugal blowers is the easier ability to intercool, which seems pretty non-existent with a roots type.
12-02-2008, 10:01 PM
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
Although easier to keep under the hood (plumbing issues aside), I've read that the centrifugal blowers take a bit longer to build up the boost.
You could probably achieve your goal going NA, but I wonder if the cam wouldn't be so big that you'd have streetability issues.
Mine is a 144 B&M, same thing as a Weiand. I love it, its instant on, and the blower whine when you nail it is almost unearthly. Besides, nothing says "fast car" than just....couldnt...fit it...under the hood!
The one benefit I see to centrifugal blowers is the easier ability to intercool, which seems pretty non-existent with a roots type.
You could probably achieve your goal going NA, but I wonder if the cam wouldn't be so big that you'd have streetability issues.
Mine is a 144 B&M, same thing as a Weiand. I love it, its instant on, and the blower whine when you nail it is almost unearthly. Besides, nothing says "fast car" than just....couldnt...fit it...under the hood!
The one benefit I see to centrifugal blowers is the easier ability to intercool, which seems pretty non-existent with a roots type.
Now just need to save up the money.
12-02-2008, 10:18 PM
#27
Since you mention money.....
You should be aware by now that at a minimum you are going to have to buy forged (low compression) pistons to do this. Forged crank and H-beam rods are also desirable, as is o-rings in the block, unless you dont mind replacing head gaskets.
Im having a 4-bolt short block, all forged 383 being built for me and its going to be right around 4K, but thats internally balanced and includes roller cam, timing gears, chain and cover, lifters, oil pump and oil pan, and aforementioned o-rings. Pretty much bolt on my heads and blower, stick in the dizzy and go.
I guess my point is that you pretty much have to make the decision about the blower before you even start collecting engine parts.
You should be aware by now that at a minimum you are going to have to buy forged (low compression) pistons to do this. Forged crank and H-beam rods are also desirable, as is o-rings in the block, unless you dont mind replacing head gaskets
.Im having a 4-bolt short block, all forged 383 being built for me and its going to be right around 4K, but thats internally balanced and includes roller cam, timing gears, chain and cover, lifters, oil pump and oil pan, and aforementioned o-rings. Pretty much bolt on my heads and blower, stick in the dizzy and go.
I guess my point is that you pretty much have to make the decision about the blower before you even start collecting engine parts.
12-02-2008, 10:25 PM
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
Since you mention money.....
You should be aware by now that at a minimum you are going to have to buy forged (low compression) pistons to do this. Forged crank and H-beam rods are also desirable, as is o-rings in the block, unless you dont mind replacing head gaskets.
Im having a 4-bolt short block, all forged 383 being built for me and its going to be right around 4K, but thats internally balanced and includes roller cam, timing gears, chain and cover, lifters, oil pump and oil pan, and aforementioned o-rings. Pretty much bolt on my heads and blower, stick in the dizzy and go.
I guess my point is that you pretty much have to make the decision about the blower before you even start collecting engine parts.
You should be aware by now that at a minimum you are going to have to buy forged (low compression) pistons to do this. Forged crank and H-beam rods are also desirable, as is o-rings in the block, unless you dont mind replacing head gaskets
.Im having a 4-bolt short block, all forged 383 being built for me and its going to be right around 4K, but thats internally balanced and includes roller cam, timing gears, chain and cover, lifters, oil pump and oil pan, and aforementioned o-rings. Pretty much bolt on my heads and blower, stick in the dizzy and go.
I guess my point is that you pretty much have to make the decision about the blower before you even start collecting engine parts.
12-02-2008, 10:40 PM
#29
My current set-up is lower compression as is and I had someone who is an avid racer (she....yes SHE has a 9sec chevy s10) and she thought the current internal would support a reasonable amount of boost. I am going to have her help me out on this one some more....She knows her stuff.
Seriously, yes, you can get away with less than I described, but it's a matter of longevity, especially without forged pistons.
12-02-2008, 10:42 PM
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
But...
12-02-2008, 11:27 PM
#31
Cruising
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The old girl is not anything as fancy as the beauty posted with the blower, but it does make good power.....I certainly don't mind sharing....
I have been built many engines through the years, but a very close friend of mine insisted on freshening up the old girl....He has been building engines for over 40 years and is a well known engine builder in the NHRA Super Stock circles....
The first 383 we built had Lunati street rods, steel crank, flat top TRW pistons, Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads, Edelbrock Scorpion Intake, Holley 750DP and a Comp 282S.
We made a warm up pull on the Dyno stopping at 5200....The old girl made 448Hp @ 5200 and 451 ft. lbs. @ 4500.
Not bad considering that was the first pull.....
I guess you want to know the rest of the story????
I have been built many engines through the years, but a very close friend of mine insisted on freshening up the old girl....He has been building engines for over 40 years and is a well known engine builder in the NHRA Super Stock circles....
The first 383 we built had Lunati street rods, steel crank, flat top TRW pistons, Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads, Edelbrock Scorpion Intake, Holley 750DP and a Comp 282S.
We made a warm up pull on the Dyno stopping at 5200....The old girl made 448Hp @ 5200 and 451 ft. lbs. @ 4500.
Not bad considering that was the first pull.....
I guess you want to know the rest of the story????
12-03-2008, 12:56 AM
#33
Racer
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I have a set of spirals on and you are right about the tinny kind of a sound,,,,I dont care for that part of them, but at least I can talk to the passenger when Iam in the car.
I've had the Hooker glasspacks...too restrictive...Now I have the Hooker Max-Flo's..they perform better and I love the sound at WOT. and very hard to beat the price. The spirals sound tinny IMHO.
12-03-2008, 01:38 AM
#34
Race Director
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12-03-2008, 04:52 AM
#35
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09
It's around 8.5-1 so I run a smallish top pulley to spin the blower relatively fast but keep the rpms way down. This results in 5-6 lbs of boost. That's enough to blow the tires off anyway so it's a fun cruiser.
12-03-2008, 07:36 AM
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
12-03-2008, 07:38 AM
#37
Drifting
Thread Starter
One other question I am trying to understand better when it comes to supercharging, is it really necessary to have a carb specific to the application? I have a Demon 750 DP and I would imagine with some tuning like maybe changing of jets, float levels and maybe accel pumps would do it for mild boost applications.
Thanks
Shane
Thanks
Shane
12-03-2008, 10:30 AM
#38
Well.......
It is my understanding that if you are going to use a centrifugal, there are a few issues since you are actually pressurizing the carb.
If a roots or screw type, no special carb is needed, but I think size selection is going to based (like any other application) on the complete build of the engine, specifically heads and cam, not just the fact that you have a blower. I do know that you do want to fatten it up a little, because the last thing you want to do (literally,maybe, ha ha) is to lean out a supercharged engine. Better to run a little rich then burn up your pistons.
That being said, I have no real expertise in this area.
I can tell you what I am running as a reference point. I have a Holly 850 DP with #71 jets in the primaries and #80 in the secondaries. I have spacer/isolators under it for heat protection; compressing air creates heat.
Probably a good thing for you to do is to download the camquest software from Comp (although I had poor results with this), or get a copy of desktop dyno (Ill send, if you PM me a email address), and play with the numbers until you see what you want. I am not at all convinced that DD factors in the boost correctly though.
We are getting sooo far off topic though, I wonder is we should move to a new thread. This stopped being about sidepipes a long time ago
(A shorter answer might have been that I think you will be fine with a 750 DP if you upjet it.)
It is my understanding that if you are going to use a centrifugal, there are a few issues since you are actually pressurizing the carb.
If a roots or screw type, no special carb is needed, but I think size selection is going to based (like any other application) on the complete build of the engine, specifically heads and cam, not just the fact that you have a blower. I do know that you do want to fatten it up a little, because the last thing you want to do (literally,maybe, ha ha) is to lean out a supercharged engine. Better to run a little rich then burn up your pistons.
That being said, I have no real expertise in this area.
I can tell you what I am running as a reference point. I have a Holly 850 DP with #71 jets in the primaries and #80 in the secondaries. I have spacer/isolators under it for heat protection; compressing air creates heat.
Probably a good thing for you to do is to download the camquest software from Comp (although I had poor results with this), or get a copy of desktop dyno (Ill send, if you PM me a email address), and play with the numbers until you see what you want. I am not at all convinced that DD factors in the boost correctly though.
We are getting sooo far off topic though, I wonder is we should move to a new thread. This stopped being about sidepipes a long time ago
(A shorter answer might have been that I think you will be fine with a 750 DP if you upjet it.)
Last edited by Droshki; 12-03-2008 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Did I make that complicated or what?
12-03-2008, 11:20 AM
#39
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '09
One other question I am trying to understand better when it comes to supercharging, is it really necessary to have a carb specific to the application? I have a Demon 750 DP and I would imagine with some tuning like maybe changing of jets, float levels and maybe accel pumps would do it for mild boost applications.
Thanks
Shane
Thanks
Shane
I bought my speed demons on closeout from Summit and converted the power valve circuits myself. It's a DIY mod or a carb shop can do it for you.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/tec...d-engines.html
12-03-2008, 12:31 PM
#40
Instructor
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I see that Z Man is running non power assist brakes with that beast. Is stopping an issue? I say that because I am building a 68 Vert with a ~570 HP 383. I have been buying parts for the last 10 years to finish this drawn out project. I think everything came to a halt when I got married and had kids at that time.
I had talked to a few racing buddies of mine about the side pipes for higher HP applications and the Hooker Maxflows were recomended. They seem to flow better at the higher RPM's. I have been talking to some other forum members about braking, since my car came with manual everything. I am still not convinced that the manual brakes are the best route for my project. Any ideas?
I had talked to a few racing buddies of mine about the side pipes for higher HP applications and the Hooker Maxflows were recomended. They seem to flow better at the higher RPM's. I have been talking to some other forum members about braking, since my car came with manual everything. I am still not convinced that the manual brakes are the best route for my project. Any ideas?