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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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Default Solid U-Joints

Anyone use the Brute Force u-joints? Anyone think they will hold up as well as the Spicers?
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bluzman2004
Anyone use the Brute Force u-joints? Anyone think they will hold up as well as the Spicers?
I did W/ 400 hp 4 spd. No issues.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 12:19 AM
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I used Spicers on my 93 vette, and modified 80 vette, and NEVER had a problem. I'm sure there are a couple of other good makers of solid u joints, possibly including Brute Force, but I see no reason to change from a reliable product like Spicer.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 07:34 AM
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Does NAPA sell the brute force?
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 11:19 AM
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Yeah, Napa has them and a couple of other places too. I would just like to pick something this small up local. I do need them to be strong though for the track this summer.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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I used Spicers when I put the engine in mine. That was 6 years ago and they are still solid with no problems.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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With your build level I would spring for the solid spicer's.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 01:37 PM
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Are "Brute Force" U-joints cast or forged? The name sounds like something applied to a Chinese metal product. That doesn't mean that it isn't good...just that it raises doubts [in the absence of real knowledge about them]. Thus, I would go the Spicer route...just for security's sake. Oh, I bet the "Brute Force" parts are cheaper, aren't they?
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
With your build level I would spring for the solid spicer's.
Don't skimp on the samll stuff...you'll wish you didn't!!!
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 03:15 PM
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Definitely go with the Spicer solids. There are many supporting vendors here that can get them to you in no time at all.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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Thanks for the input guys. I think I will just order the Spicers from one of the supporting vendors. The prices are pretty close anyways. I think I'll just do all 6 and forget about them. I'm trying to get the rear suspension up to par for the dragstrip and would hate to break something as inexpensive as a u-joint.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 04:29 PM
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I used all spicer solid U-joints in my 67. At the track with slicks and 4 speed I never broke one. I did break everything else though!!!
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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4 speeds are brutal on things! I've already twisted both of my axle shaft splines, so I replaced those. That was with my old motor and a 4000 stall auto. I am changing to a 420# compsite spring and the QA1 adjustable shocks. I am also added heavy duty rod end type rear camber rods. I need to go to a 3 series posi carrier so I guess I'm going to get an Eaton unit and 3.70 gears. I will be selling my 4 series Auburn posi and 4.56 gearset. We shall see what goes first and then upgrade it guess.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bluzman2004
4 speeds are brutal on things! I've already twisted both of my axle shaft splines, so I replaced those. That was with my old motor and a 4000 stall auto. I am changing to a 420# compsite spring and the QA1 adjustable shocks. I am also added heavy duty rod end type rear camber rods. I need to go to a 3 series posi carrier so I guess I'm going to get an Eaton unit and 3.70 gears. I will be selling my 4 series Auburn posi and 4.56 gearset. We shall see what goes first and then upgrade it guess.
I'm surprised the Auburn lasted. Going to a stock loaded Eaton isn't much better, they use less clutches,fiber coated(not good), powered metal gears. I suggest you review my diff thread before you spend any cash they may help you in the long run. If you went back with 17 spline axles you're probably going to eat them again.
Good luck
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bluzman2004
4 speeds are brutal on things! I've already twisted both of my axle shaft splines, so I replaced those. That was with my old motor and a 4000 stall auto. I am changing to a 420# compsite spring and the QA1 adjustable shocks. I am also added heavy duty rod end type rear camber rods. I need to go to a 3 series posi carrier so I guess I'm going to get an Eaton unit and 3.70 gears. I will be selling my 4 series Auburn posi and 4.56 gearset. We shall see what goes first and then upgrade it guess.
I have the new eton posi with a richmond ring and pinion. Steal caps with International axles and spindles. All this has held up great with the stick. One thing that you should reinforce is the pinion snubber bracket that is on the chassis. It will bend and distort from the rear trying to lift the car. Also reinforce the sides of the pinion bracket on the rear housing. The two long bolts will egg the bracket holes giving it play up and down. Here is a picture of what happens.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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A guy at the local drive line shop that sells Brute Force and Spicer told me they were comparable.

God bless, Sensei
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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Brute Force U-joints are the performance parts from Neapco which is a US company. They used to make them in Beatrice Nb and the company I work for used to do the heat treating. That was a few years ago and they were a high quality company. They could make them in Mexico or China by now, and Spicer could as well.
I'll see if I know any of the engineers and give them a call.
The UJ's I use are holow and have the zerts on the end, don't remember who made them. My car isn't too rough on driveline parts...knock on wood.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 07:59 PM
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GTR1999, I will look at your info. I'm surprised it held up too. I was going to the new Eaton posi, not the factory one. I thought the new stuff was stronger. Also, going to be using the Richmond gearset as well. Unfortunately, I did go back with regular stock axles. I'm going to keep on eye on them and go with better ones in the very near future. I just found this forum and have learned alot from the guys that actually drag race these things. I never knew anyone before, just me.

L79racer, I think I'll be running what you are basically. Thanks for the heads up on the reinforcing. Do you have any pics of the areas you're talking about? I'll have to look at that area and see what I can weld in there for reinforcement.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bluzman2004
GTR1999, I will look at your info. I'm surprised it held up too. I was going to the new Eaton posi, not the factory one. I thought the new stuff was stronger. Also, going to be using the Richmond gearset as well. Unfortunately, I did go back with regular stock axles. I'm going to keep on eye on them and go with better ones in the very near future. I just found this forum and have learned alot from the guys that actually drag race these things. I never knew anyone before, just me.

L79racer, I think I'll be running what you are basically. Thanks for the heads up on the reinforcing. Do you have any pics of the areas you're talking about? I'll have to look at that area and see what I can weld in there for reinforcement.

look at the top of the picture. Thats what you have to make stronger. I doubled the thickness of the bottom and sides of the bracket that the pinion snubber bolts too.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1123...52933816ypJOWu
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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here is another picture. See the circled locations. The one to the left is the chassis bracket and the right one is the rear end bracket. I also added metal to the rear end bracket where the two bolts go threw.


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