My Autofab 4 link solid axle install
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 1
From: Nederland Texas
I've been following your thread as I'm in the middle of this same mod myself.
My car wasn't very original when I started, so mods don't scare me. Sometimes the money spent to get a smile on my face scares my wife.
I will start a seperate thread later when it's finished so as not to hi-jack yours.
I completely cut the crossmember and will be boxing it in today so as the bottom will be removable to make driveshaft access easier. I also cut my storage boxes a little to gain a little extra travel for the 9".
I can't wait to see your updates.
You can PM me if neccessary. I could probably benefit from your advice!
-Patrick
My car wasn't very original when I started, so mods don't scare me. Sometimes the money spent to get a smile on my face scares my wife.
I will start a seperate thread later when it's finished so as not to hi-jack yours.
I completely cut the crossmember and will be boxing it in today so as the bottom will be removable to make driveshaft access easier. I also cut my storage boxes a little to gain a little extra travel for the 9".
I can't wait to see your updates.
You can PM me if neccessary. I could probably benefit from your advice!
-Patrick
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 508
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From: Olive Branch MS
Hey Patrick, I'm the same way. I've cut frames and backhalfed vehicles before. I'll keep you up to date on what I'm doing. Memphis Motorsports Park opens for that first test-n-tune this weekend. I guess I'll miss the first couple. I'll have to get to work on this thing.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Olive Branch MS
I do have a stock Ford 9" already. I will go over what needs to be done with pictures when I get started on it. Unfortunately, I am heading to Colorado tomorrow until next Tues. After that I will finish up the crossmember and mounting the frame 4 link brackets. Then it will be time to start on the 9". You will need the measurement between the 4 link frame brackets to transfer them to the differential housing. 
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Toms River NJ
bluzman, were you charged extra for the back braces in that kit? i just got a quote from Josh @ autofab, $1149 for the kit and $100 for back braces, which he described as (in the main pic on their website) the two tubes with slightly angled ends at the top of the pic. it appears you have them in your kit on the left side of your first pic.
are they trying to screw me or are the back braces something other than what i think they are describing?
are they trying to screw me or are the back braces something other than what i think they are describing?
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Olive Branch MS
That doesn't sound right. Everything in my picture is what came in the kit. All the same stuff that the other guy on here got, too. I think the braces are the bent tubes that brace the 4 link brackets on the diff and those came in mine. I hope they don't raise their prices once more people start getting interested in it.
Just a note, those aren't really necessary (nice though). I haven't even seen them in any other 4 link kits that the main chassis companies offer.
Just a note, those aren't really necessary (nice though). I haven't even seen them in any other 4 link kits that the main chassis companies offer.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 1
From: Nederland Texas
The Fab 9 kit I bought from Chris Alston Chassisworks didn't have the back-brace included. It was also not Vette specific. I highly recommend doing business with anyone willing to make a kit specifically for us C3 guys. A $100 sounds about right. It makes a good mounting location for additional bracing, wheelie bars, coil over shocks, wishbones, etc...
I got mine back from the powder coater today.
-Patrick
I got mine back from the powder coater today.
-Patrick
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Toms River NJ
talked to Josh @ autofab today, turns out we were in fact talking about different parts. here's a link to one of their pics: http://autofabcart.net/images/view.a...Id=823&index=6 the back brace is the tube going straight across the back of the housing. my bad.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Olive Branch MS
Well, I finally got back from vacation. Now it's back to work on this thing...
I finished notching the crossmember for driveshaft clearance. You will need to cut off the stock mounting bracket for the differential pinion mount and clean it up a little.
Now, you need to use the included bent sheet metal for a template and cut out the crossmember. The tool of choice would be a plasma cutter, but unfortunately, like most of us, I don't have one of those. The next best thing would be a cut-off wheel and that old standby, the saws-all.
Now clean up the cut and weld in the sheet metal.
I finished notching the crossmember for driveshaft clearance. You will need to cut off the stock mounting bracket for the differential pinion mount and clean it up a little.
Now, you need to use the included bent sheet metal for a template and cut out the crossmember. The tool of choice would be a plasma cutter, but unfortunately, like most of us, I don't have one of those. The next best thing would be a cut-off wheel and that old standby, the saws-all.
Now clean up the cut and weld in the sheet metal.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Olive Branch MS
The next step would be to install the 4 link brackets onto the frame, but I ran into this small bracket that looked like it could be in the way. The instructions didn't mention it, but I cut, bent, and welded it out of the way.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Olive Branch MS
To install the 4 link brackets to the frame you first bolt the frame brackets together with just the end links in between them to maintain the correct spacing. You install them against the inside edge of the frame rail while the bottom is level with the bottom of the frame rail. The distance measured between the insides of the brackets should be 40 3/4" as per the instructions. I used a magnetic angle guage to make sure the brackets where straight. Then you tack weld the inside bracket to hold it in place. Then remove the bolts, end links, and outside brackets. Now, you can fully weld the tacked inside brackets and allow them to cool. I, unfortunately, don't trust my 110volt mig welder for this. I don't think it can penetrate into the 1/4" steel brackets good enough, so I am going to have someone with a 220volt welder come by and finish weld these. Then I will install the outer brackets, again with the bolts and end links and tack them in place to be finish welded by the same guy. Here's the inside brackets tacked in ready to be finish welded.
Last edited by bluzman2004; Mar 7, 2009 at 11:03 PM.
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From: Olive Branch MS
I'm running a small block 434" motor with a TCI street fighter 700r4 right now. I think I will need to swap back to a TH350 or TH400 though if this dies. The motor made right at 600hp on the engine dyno.
Last edited by bluzman2004; Mar 7, 2009 at 11:08 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Nice looking SB, that is. Might I assume your going to run it at Super Chevy this April? If so, hope it comes together for you, as I plan on attending again (one of the rites of spring IMHO), if for nothing else to see what the Sandman has up his sleeve this year.
Curious if you might have had Dynotech dyno it. Heard they've recently installed a new system which I'll likely be putting to use when I get my 427 build up completed, if I can't find a better situation.
Keep posting up.
Charlie
Might I assume your going to run it at Super Chevy this April? If so, hope it comes together for you, as I plan on attending again (one of the rites of spring IMHO), if for nothing else to see what the Sandman has up his sleeve this year. Curious if you might have had Dynotech dyno it. Heard they've recently installed a new system which I'll likely be putting to use when I get my 427 build up completed, if I can't find a better situation.
Keep posting up.
Charlie
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Olive Branch MS
I agree about Super Chevy! Its just something you have to do! I hope we can meet up out there.If I can get this thing sorted out by then, I will probably race it there. I was just talking to my friend about just that.
I dynoed it at work. We have a pretty well equipped R&D facility with all Superflow engine, chassis, and motorcycle dynos as well as 2 spintrons, a flowbench, and a fuel injector flowbench.
I guess my next step is to get some final measurements for tire clearance so I can start narrowing the differential. I want to try and fit as much tire as possible under this thing.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Olive Branch MS
I was mocking up my tires for measuring for the rear end width, last night. I was using some 26 x 12.5 MT Sportman Pro's that I had from some racing I did. I just used them for a width fitment since I will need a 28" tall tire. Laying them on the floor with a straight edge on the top side showed 12 1/2" section width (with a 10" wide rim). I can fit these under the car pretty much all under the fender, so I think I'm going to go with the mT 325-50-15 drag radials.
This will make my rear end width 56 3/4" axle flange to axle flange. My 4 link brackets inside to inside are 40 3/8". I need to see what the backspace on my rims and I will post that.
This will make my rear end width 56 3/4" axle flange to axle flange. My 4 link brackets inside to inside are 40 3/8". I need to see what the backspace on my rims and I will post that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
In case I missed it, are you going to put slicks on it at any time, and are you allowing for growth?
FWIW, if you ever change your mind about tubbing it out, I've got a Mark Williams Dana 60, 42" plate to plate if I remember correctly, that needs to find a home. Got some 15 x 10 and 15 x 14 CL's (all 5 on 4.75), too. May have them and some other stuff at the SS swap meet if a buddy of mine is getting some spaces again this year.
Go Tigers Go!
FWIW, if you ever change your mind about tubbing it out, I've got a Mark Williams Dana 60, 42" plate to plate if I remember correctly, that needs to find a home. Got some 15 x 10 and 15 x 14 CL's (all 5 on 4.75), too. May have them and some other stuff at the SS swap meet if a buddy of mine is getting some spaces again this year.
Go Tigers Go!
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Olive Branch MS
I would love to completely back half this thing, but I'll just have to stick with this right now. I don't have any plans to use slicks at this time. Most people think you can hook up almost as good with drag radial anyway. I know a few guys running in the 9's here locally on drag radials.
I got my 4 link brackets welded onto the frame this morning. I also cut off all of the original mounting brackets on my Ford 9" and hit the whole thing with a wire wheel to clean it up. A guy at work narrows rearends and has a jig, so he said he would narrow mine and weld on the 4 link brackets correctly. So, that is my next step. I'll take him the the brackets and the housing and let him go to town. I still need to order my new axles from Moser.
I got my 4 link brackets welded onto the frame this morning. I also cut off all of the original mounting brackets on my Ford 9" and hit the whole thing with a wire wheel to clean it up. A guy at work narrows rearends and has a jig, so he said he would narrow mine and weld on the 4 link brackets correctly. So, that is my next step. I'll take him the the brackets and the housing and let him go to town. I still need to order my new axles from Moser.
Last edited by bluzman2004; Mar 14, 2009 at 04:01 PM.
