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If you could give me the front measurements also starting from the bottom hole as a starting point going up the bracket it would be great.
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My Autofab 4 link solid axle install
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 508
Likes: 1
From: Olive Branch MS
My Autofab 4 link solid axle install
I know there where some others that were interested in seeing what was involved in installing the Autofab 4 link kit and solid axle. I've decided to go this route rather than go the Tom's diff route. It will be much cheaper and probably stronger and more tunable for my drag racing needs.
Here is the kit laid out on the floor. It was all disassembled and individually wrapped in bubble-wrap. The material is laser cut 1/4" steel and all rods use weld-in threaded inserts. This picture makes them look smaller than real for some reason. This stuff is very stout and impressed the heck out of me!
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I will continue as I go along.
Oh also, I ordered the kit on Monday and got it Friday. The cost was $1149 with free shipping.
Here is the kit laid out on the floor. It was all disassembled and individually wrapped in bubble-wrap. The material is laser cut 1/4" steel and all rods use weld-in threaded inserts. This picture makes them look smaller than real for some reason. This stuff is very stout and impressed the heck out of me!
[IMG]
[/IMG]I will continue as I go along.
Oh also, I ordered the kit on Monday and got it Friday. The cost was $1149 with free shipping.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 4
From: 2011,2012 ECS CC 10.50 CHAMP Massapequa NY
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Toms River NJ
nice twisted axle. how much power were you making when you did that? and what kind of tires were you using?
I love this autofab 4-link kit. Im looking to pick one up after i get my tax return. I saw you didnt get it with a center section and everything, what are you going to use 12 bolt or 9 inch?
cant wait for more pics, keep 'em coming!
I love this autofab 4-link kit. Im looking to pick one up after i get my tax return. I saw you didnt get it with a center section and everything, what are you going to use 12 bolt or 9 inch?
cant wait for more pics, keep 'em coming!
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 508
Likes: 1
From: Olive Branch MS
Well I had a couple of holdups with my spare time so I didn't get to do much on this until this weekend. I am going to use a Ford 9" rear. I picked one up at the local salvage yard complete for $68. I'm going to narrow it myself and order Moser axles to the right size.
The weekend I started by getting the entire car off the grount about 24" with jack stands to I can easily work. Using my level I made sure the frame was level so all of my angle measurements will be accurate. I then marked my axles centerline and axle centerline using a plum-bob and marked it on the floor as a reference for a basic step for my 4 link and 9".
Also the axle pics where with about 400 crank hp, 4.56 rear gear, 3500 stall with auto trans, and Mickey Thompson Sportman Pro tires. They hooked very good, too.
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The weekend I started by getting the entire car off the grount about 24" with jack stands to I can easily work. Using my level I made sure the frame was level so all of my angle measurements will be accurate. I then marked my axles centerline and axle centerline using a plum-bob and marked it on the floor as a reference for a basic step for my 4 link and 9".
Also the axle pics where with about 400 crank hp, 4.56 rear gear, 3500 stall with auto trans, and Mickey Thompson Sportman Pro tires. They hooked very good, too.
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Last edited by bluzman2004; Feb 22, 2009 at 04:12 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Not picking at you, but I might observe its a good time to patch up your cargo bins to reduce how much burnout smoke gets in the cockpit. 
BTW, I'd like to know when you plan on heading over to MMP to make some passes after you get it back together, in case I'm able to come.
Charlie
BTW, I'd like to know when you plan on heading over to MMP to make some passes after you get it back together, in case I'm able to come.Charlie
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 508
Likes: 1
From: Olive Branch MS
Thanks, I will be patching those up. They were cut out like that back in the early 90's and I never patched them for some reason.
As soon as I get this back on the road, I'm going to the track for sure.
After I got back from the firing range today, I welded in the patches that cover the trailing arm mounting points in the frame. They are laser cut to fit, but need a little grinding for a perfect fit before welding.
As soon as I get this back on the road, I'm going to the track for sure.
After I got back from the firing range today, I welded in the patches that cover the trailing arm mounting points in the frame. They are laser cut to fit, but need a little grinding for a perfect fit before welding.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Toms River NJ
400 hp. thats it?! im almost scared to drive mine until i get a solid axle in it now.
very interested in how youre going to measure, mark, and otherwise line up the axle in relation to ...well, everything.
thanks for the new pics! cant wait to see more.
very interested in how youre going to measure, mark, and otherwise line up the axle in relation to ...well, everything.
thanks for the new pics! cant wait to see more.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
TSW
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Toms River NJ
Tho I myself can attest first hand that the stock Corvette 10-bolt IRS setup will eventually surrender given enough power and sufficient bite, even w/o slicks, the C2/C3 IRS can be beefed up to handle drag racing launches with engines having well over 1000 HP, but it ain't cheap. Fortunately, they're somewhat modular so you don't necessarily have to go all out to prepare them for lesser punishment. The OP simply chose a different route than others of us have taken.
TSW
TSW
after pricing most of the options (vansteel, toms, autofab, any other suggestions?), which is the determining factor, the autofab 4 link ($1149) and a used 9" (as bluzman is doing) appears to be the fiscally responsible way to go.
I wont be autocrossing with the car, just cruising on the weekends, and taking a trip to the strip from time to time.
-Dan
Last edited by dp9; Feb 23, 2009 at 12:22 PM. Reason: correcting spelling
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
...after pricing most of the options (vansteel, toms, autofab, any other suggestions?), which is the determining factor, the autofab 4 link ($1149) and a used 9" (as bluzman is doing) appears to be the fiscally responsible way to go.
I wont be autocrossing with the car, just cruising on the weekends, and taking a trip to the strip from time to time.
-Dan
I wont be autocrossing with the car, just cruising on the weekends, and taking a trip to the strip from time to time.
-Dan
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 508
Likes: 1
From: Olive Branch MS
I can tell you that you can make the IRS live. I met Steve Hoche when he came here for the couple of PumpGas Drags he competed in and his is proof! I did a complete cost evaluation of what my options where and a solid axle was my best option, but you have to keep in mind that I can do all my own work. I can narrow the housing and weld in the kit, too. If you have to buy everything from scratch like the other guy did you will spend a little over $4000 for brakes and all. Then you will have to do all the welding, too. It's not for everyone.
On mini tubing, I stuffed a tire up there leveled and centered it and can easily clear a 295/50-15 with a 10" rim inside the fender. I might notch the frame slightly towards the front part where the old swing arms mounted. It bulges out there and that seems the be the limiting part for good fitment. It's not necessary though you can do this whole thing with out it. I'm only going to be running either a 275/60-15 or 325/50-15 MT drag radial.
On mini tubing, I stuffed a tire up there leveled and centered it and can easily clear a 295/50-15 with a 10" rim inside the fender. I might notch the frame slightly towards the front part where the old swing arms mounted. It bulges out there and that seems the be the limiting part for good fitment. It's not necessary though you can do this whole thing with out it. I'm only going to be running either a 275/60-15 or 325/50-15 MT drag radial.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 508
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From: Olive Branch MS
Today, I almost got the crossmember notched for the driveshaft. The kit comes with a piece to weld in the notch after using it as a template to open the driveshaft opening in the crossmember that used to mount the rear of the differential. You have to do this because the stock diff mounts to the frame so the driveshaft never moves. The live axle that will take it's place will be able to move up and down some, so you need room. I'll put some pics up tomorrow night after I get it fitted and welded in.
On the hp it can handle, the site says up to 800hp. I honestly don't know, but I will find out maybe. My motor dyno'd almost 600 and I might spray it with a 100 - 150 shot once. Of course this only comes into play if you can hook it up. If not, anything can handle the power.
On the hp it can handle, the site says up to 800hp. I honestly don't know, but I will find out maybe. My motor dyno'd almost 600 and I might spray it with a 100 - 150 shot once. Of course this only comes into play if you can hook it up. If not, anything can handle the power.