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Ignition OR Carb problem ??

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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Default Ignition OR Carb problem ??

Feels like Carb, but I have been tricked by Ignition before!

Suddenly on the last drive into town.... the 74 / 454 (GM HEI - no points) would sputter and spit when coming to a stop AND if at idle when coasting downhill. Each time it went dead I held WOT until it would clear and start. It was sporatic and it always started back up after the carb cleared.

I havent had time to mess with it ..... but WHY would the "battery" gauge be pegged full 40+ EVERYTIME this occurred. Each time it would smooth back out, the "battery" gauge went back to normal.....spitting and coughing - pegged full right! Could this be an alternator dying (?) rather than a carb problem ? I may "test / replace" the alternator before screwing around with a Lars Carb that I have full faith in.

Suggestions appreciated........
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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its sound electical due to the amp gauge pegged... Just a thought... I would look at all the electric parts before the carb...

Good Luck
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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i will start to check spark plugs ,, fuel line ,dist timing if all ok then must be the carb
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 11:31 AM
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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One of my favorite Larsisms is that 90% of carb problems are actually ignition problems. Good idea to always check the ignition system, which can be effected by electrical issues, first.


TSW
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
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You guys are confirming what I thought......check everything else first (especially electrical / timing) when it appears to be a carb problem. I'll follow up with what it turns out to be. I am leaning to alternator - volt regulator, because this car was "tuned dead on" and the entire underhood is all new .... except the alternator. It very well could be the original part.


Last edited by fotyfobravo; Feb 25, 2009 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fotyfobravo
Feels like Carb, but I have been tricked by Ignition before!

Suddenly on the last drive into town.... the 74 / 454 (GM HEI - no points) would sputter and spit when coming to a stop AND if at idle when coasting downhill. Each time it went dead I held WOT until it would clear and start. It was sporatic and it always started back up after the carb cleared.

I havent had time to mess with it ..... but WHY would the "battery" gauge be pegged full 40+ EVERYTIME this occurred. Each time it would smooth back out, the "battery" gauge went back to normal.....spitting and coughing - pegged full right! Could this be an alternator dying (?) rather than a carb problem ? I may "test / replace" the alternator before screwing around with a Lars Carb that I have full faith in.

Suggestions appreciated........
That is a clear sign of extra gas in the cylinders.

Don't know how long you crank on it, but if the battery isn't up to snuff, it will show a full charge for a bit after a lot of cranking.

On the distributer side check this and solder the wires. This creates a lot of intermittant problems such as unexpectantly cutting out for no reason.

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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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This is going to sound out in 'left field', but the curious thing is the ammeter going to full scale (+) reading. I'm wondering if the fuse-link or part of the wiring in the ammeter line is going bad causing its resistance to increase. That would cause the ammeter to read high AND for the actual voltage in that line to drop...which might cause problems with the ignition system. Again, I'm trying to come up with a fault that matches with your 'symptoms'.
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
This is going to sound out in 'left field', but the curious thing is the ammeter going to full scale (+) reading. I'm wondering if the fuse-link or part of the wiring in the ammeter line is going bad causing its resistance to increase. That would cause the ammeter to read high AND for the actual voltage in that line to drop...which might cause problems with the ignition system. Again, I'm trying to come up with a fault that matches with your 'symptoms'.
Often I find that "left field" works well when test shooting a problem.

What is throwing me off is that just at a cruise....it will suddenly act like it is FLOODING, ..... but at the same instant, the amp meter goes from normal to full 40+. As soon as it "clears" - the amp meter is back normal. Battery is only a month old. Thanks again....Fred
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by fotyfobravo
Often I find that "left field" works well when test shooting a problem.

What is throwing me off is that just at a cruise....it will suddenly act like it is FLOODING, ..... but at the same instant, the amp meter goes from normal to full 40+. As soon as it "clears" - the amp meter is back normal. Battery is only a month old. Thanks again....Fred
If it does this while you are running, then I would say that it is probably electrical. You should look around the ignition shielding. But, as noonie says, if the pegged ammeter occurs after you crank on it, that would be normal charging.
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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
One of my favorite Larsisms is that 90% of carb problems are actually ignition problems. Good idea to always check the ignition system, which can be effected by electrical issues, first.


TSW
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