When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ok... i did not see anyone forwarding this problem with poly and definitely aluminum.... VIBRATION!! Rubber will help dampen vibration, the others will not... Poly is good for a-arms and other handling bushings, other than that go rubber only. I have been working on vibration for about 2 years now and have it almost all solved..,. I have read for days and weeks about this and would never recommend poly for motor mounts trans mounts and rear-rend mounts... unless you like BUZZZZZ///
I've certainly heard this said before, and there is truth to it. BUT I think it varies widely depending on the manufacturer. The ES poly transmission mount I have is actually similar in hardness to the rubber one I pulled out (fitment is another issue). Likewise, I'm able to visibly deflect their poly T-arm bushings between my thumb and forefinger even though I've heard quite a few people say the poly bushings are all hard as rocks. Outdated information maybe? ES at least appears to be thinking about this.
I've certainly heard this said before, and there is truth to it. BUT I think it varies widely depending on the manufacturer. The ES poly transmission mount I have is actually similar in hardness to the rubber one I pulled out (fitment is another issue). Likewise, I'm able to visibly deflect their poly T-arm bushings between my thumb and forefinger even though I've heard quite a few people say the poly bushings are all hard as rocks. Outdated information maybe? ES at least appears to be thinking about this.
ok.... I have only seen the hard ones... So, I guess you have to make sure FIRST, that you have a soft poly.... like rubber..... so whats the point of gong poly, if you loose the rigidity? just stay rubber
But... Fitment.... is it bad? what problem exactly?
Last edited by pauldana; May 20, 2009 at 04:38 PM.
I've used the ES poly eng & Prothane poly trans for 5+ years on an automatic and 4 spd without any vibration issue. Those are the only places I use poly as well. I won't use the snubber or T/A poly's.
Yes the aluminum will last but a lot as to do with the environment. I can put 2 C3's next to each other within a few year window and one will have near perfect mounts and the other eroded. For a hard launching car those discs for the cross member do help, for a drag car maybe even the snubber but for a street car I would still use rubber. Personal choice, not a big deal in my book,most owners will not need them. 'nuff said on my part on this thread.
ok.... I have only seen the hard ones... So, I guess you have to make sure FIRST, that you have a soft poly.... like rubber..... so whats the point of gong poly, if you loose the rigidity? just stay rubber
Yeah, honestly I was quite surprised at how soft some of them were particularly the T-arm and strut rod bushings after all the horror stories I've heard about them. Now the A-arm bushings on the other hand are noticeably harder I'm guessing because they don't have any non-axial movement. And ES says right up front that they tune the durometer ratings of their bushings for each application. It doesn't look like they're bsing to me.
Poly bushings will last longer. They're not attacked by moisture or petroleum distillates. They won't "rot" away. Poly bushings also don't need to be pressed or staked on so they're easier to install. That was a big selling point for a garage monkey like me.
But... Fitment.... is it bad? what problem exactly?
Everything fit like a glove except for the transmission mount. Gary says this has been a problem with that particular part for awhile. I've actually opened a dialogue with ES. A rep just emailed me a reply. We'll see where it goes.
Personally, where I don't have aluminum, I use the poly-graphite bushings (T/As and sway bar mounts). They don't squeek after the first ~500 miles and never need lubrication.
I've used the ES poly eng & Prothane poly trans for 5+ years on an automatic and 4 spd without any vibration issue. Those are the only places I use poly as well. I won't use the snubber or T/A poly's.
Yes the aluminum will last but a lot as to do with the environment. I can put 2 C3's next to each other within a few year window and one will have near perfect mounts and the other eroded. For a hard launching car those discs for the cross member do help, for a drag car maybe even the snubber but for a street car I would still use rubber. Personal choice, not a big deal in my book,most owners will not need them. 'nuff said on my part on this thread.
I have re-thought this subject given the opinions expressed and I cannot see any harm in using the poly bushings for a sunny, Sunday afternoon driver as my car is. I will install the poly unit I have at hand.
But I very much appreciate the many opinions that have been expressed.
OK, I wimped out and decided to proceed on the side of caution. I got the rubber version from Willcox for $16.00. Thanks Willcox!
Interesting when you compare the size and texture of each. The poly (on top) is rock hard. The rubber (on bottom) moves with some finger pressure although still pretty tough but is pliable. But look at the difference in the widths of the larger cushion! There is something happening here that I do not understand. Why is the poly so much thinner?
OK, I wimped out and decided to proceed on the side of caution. I got the rubber version from Willcox for $16.00. Thanks Willcox!
Interesting when you compare the size and texture of each. The poly (on top) is rock hard. The rubber (on bottom) moves with some finger pressure although still pretty tough but is pliable. But look at the difference in the widths of the larger cushion! There is something happening here that I do not understand. Why is the poly so much thinner?
I imagine that the rubber will squish down some when the bolt is tightened taking out most of this difference.
My rear end resto I did this last winter has poly on all three mounting points (1982 batwing) and rubber in the TA's and swaybar. I have absolutely no vibration or squeek issues from this set-up.
My trans has poly, but the motor mounts are rubber locking type that are drilled and bolted together (snug only). Really tightened up the motor movement, but it does still move around, its not a solid type set-up.
My front suspension has new rubber everywhere.
I figured if there was any moving-rotational bushing, rubber would be the choice so I didnt have to listen to squeeks. That would drive me nuts!!!
My rear end resto I did this last winter has poly on all three mounting points (1982 batwing) and rubber in the TA's and swaybar. I have absolutely no vibration or squeek issues from this set-up.
My trans has poly, but the motor mounts are rubber locking type that are drilled and bolted together (snug only). Really tightened up the motor movement, but it does still move around, its not a solid type set-up.
My front suspension has new rubber everywhere.
I figured if there was any moving-rotational bushing, rubber would be the choice so I didnt have to listen to squeeks. That would drive me nuts!!!
Install the poly and carry on......
So there is really no answer to the poly vs rubber issue. I suspected so. But I will install the rubber. Old school I guess....
Poly installed in all suspension components, differential, and trailing arms for the past 4 years, no issues. I put about 10k miles on the car a year and have no problems with the poly.