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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 09:16 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
you already have the taller valve covers.

if your block is stock never been decked you would want to use the
1094 fel pro gakets there aluminum head compatible .015 compressed 3.2cc volume, the factory steel shim gaskets were .018 compressed, your block has to have never been decked to use them.
Not a valve cover issue (at least I don't think that is what they were talking about -- maybe a should call again), we were talking about the stamped steel rockers. They told me I have to go with full fulcrum rockers.

I'll look for a .015 gasket . . . thanks!

Originally Posted by J.Aro75Vette
Thats intresting. I was able to reuse my factory stamped steel rockers on the IK180's. They seem to be working without issues. Why do the ARP rocker studs require the use of a full fulcrum rocker?
Yeah, that doesn't make sense does it? I could just try them with my existing rockers, at least to see what the issue is. Then again, I could just go with a set of Harland Sharp rollers for $218 and be done with it.
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 09:32 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by redman76
Not a valve cover issue (at least I don't think that is what they were talking about -- maybe a should call again), we were talking about the stamped steel rockers. They told me I have to go with full fulcrum rockers.

I'll look for a .015 gasket . . . thanks!



Yeah, that doesn't make sense does it? I could just try them with my existing rockers, at least to see what the issue is. Then again, I could just go with a set of Harland Sharp rollers for $218 and be done with it.
I think proform may be a foreign brand but I saw some for $160.00
have not seen anyone complaining about proforms stuff.

I find it hard to believe ball stud rockers will not work call brodix again.

Regular .015 steel shim gaskets will not work with aluminum heads
the FPP 1094 will, I had another forum member use them he has had no ploblem with them for close to two yrs his combo is simular to what you are going to do dished piston 350 with 68cc chamber aluminum holley heads.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 02:52 AM
  #43  
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I don't think you'll regret going with rollers,, that is, if Brodix and ARP are right about the products they make. Of course, they could just be over cautious, heck, why listen to Brodix and ARP, just use the stamped rockers!
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:20 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373
I don't think you'll regret going with rollers,, that is, if Brodix and ARP are right about the products they make. Of course, they could just be over cautious, heck, why listen to Brodix and ARP, just use the stamped rockers!
Wait a minute lets don't throw caution to the wind you could be right even if it takes several cell phone calls they are free experimenting with the rockers could get expensive.

When I called brodix only thing I asked about the studs is if they were flat on top that tells me they can work with roller rockers

Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 3, 2009 at 03:30 PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:22 PM
  #45  
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Redman76 have you made up your mind on the cam lifter kit 60101K
or 60102K ?
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 03:35 PM
  #46  
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Hey,, I'm running the 60201lk, the idle is like stock with a *tiny* burble. comparing to stock, to check the firing of my cylinders, i'll put my hand an inch of two at the exhaust, can feel the cylinders firing. with stock it *felt* pretty much continuous,, with the 256 you can feel the bumps, only time you notice the burble in on acceleration,, sounds kind of growly. sounds good. I don't think one step up would be too bad, but i haven't heard the 262.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 04:40 PM
  #47  
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I'm going with the 60102lk. I'm filling in my parts list and have finished the gasgets and head bolts. I'm trying to figure the pushrod length right now and type of timing chain. I'll post what I have thus far tonight.

What kind of timing chain should i get? Stock, single roller, double roller? I was in the process of reading some old threads to help figure out, but I have to leave for a while so will not have time right now. Any input would be helpful.

I still have not done my compression test. I'm going to do tomorrow night or else . . . I'm sure everything is good here, but just wanted to make sure or at least know what I have before I start anything. It runs great now. It SCREAMS when I stomp on the accelerator . . . it just does go anywhere.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 05:57 PM
  #48  
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Pro-form 1.5 roller rockers $159.99 part # 778-66907
www.jegs.com

you have to have hardened pushrods for guide plates
standard length CCA-7812-16

Cloyes street true roller should be plenty good enough

CLO-9-1100

www.summitracing.com

Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 3, 2009 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #49  
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Here is what I have so far. What am I missing? This puts me at about $1650 which is still pretty close to my original $1500 budget.


Heads Brodix IK200 1021000
Intake Edelbrock Performer RPM EDL-7104
Cam Kit Lunati 262 Dur 60102LK
Rockers Manley 1.5 Stamped Steel 43140
Pushrods Comp Cam 5/16" x 7.794" CCA-7812-16
Timing Chain Cloyes Double Roller CLO-9-1100
Head Bolts ARP ARP-134-3601
Head Gasket FelPro .015 compressed FPP-1094
Intake Gasket FelPro FPP-1206

Last edited by redman76; Aug 5, 2009 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 03:43 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by redman76
Here is what I have so far. What am I missing? This puts me at about $1650 which is still pretty close to my original $1500 budget.


Heads Brodix IK200 1021000
Cam Kit Lunati 262 Dur 60102LK
Rockers Harland 1.5 Roller CSP-S1001
Pushrods Comp Cam 5/16" x 7.794" CCA-7812-16
Timing Chain Cloyes Double Roller CLO-9-1100
Head Bolts ARP ARP-134-3601
Head Gasket FelPro .015 compressed FPP-1094
Intake Gasket FelPro FPP-1206
Your missing the intake manifold EDL-7104.

You are certain your block has not been decked before you use
the .015 gaskets ?

Are you figuring two of the FPP-1094 they come one to the package.

Will you reuse the header gaskets or buy new one's ?
new valve cover gaskets ?
Thermosat gasket ?
one of the new thermostats that if it fails it fails in the open position ?

The proform rockers would save you $60.00 with the price you put up earlier on the harland sharp, consider doing a thread asking about the proform rockers see how many people have them if anyone has had a problem with them.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 4, 2009 at 04:04 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 04:09 PM
  #51  
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You'll also need a fuel pump gasket, a front cover gasket and seal, good idea to change the H/B, one tube ARP thread sealer, 4-6 tubes of Lunati cam lube (there small), one tube of ARP assembly lube, and high temp RTV. Don't forget a harmonic balancer puller/installer, an engine primer tool, a cam handle, and a good Torque wrench. 12 quarts of Valvoline 30wt VR1 racing oil (for breakin and after change) and 2 good oil filters. a Supply of razor blades (40 pack) and a handle, and a good supply of rags. Don't forget the fact that when you pull the fuel feed line at the steel line that feeds the fuel pump (the larger one) it has to be plugged that same instant, or your tank will drain on to the floor. Let me suggest these rock arms, for 40 more, look and compare, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LU...t=LUN-85300LUN good luck,,C.


Last edited by RunningMan373; Aug 4, 2009 at 04:15 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 04:17 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373

You'll also need a fuel pump gasket, a front cover gasket and seal, good idea to change the H/B, one tube ARP thread sealer, 4-6 tubes of Lunati cam lube (there small), one tube of ARP assembly lube, and high temp RTV. Don't forget a harmonic balancer puller/installer, an engine primer tool, a cam handle, and a good Torque wrench. 12 quarts of Valvoline 30wt VR1 racing oil (for breakin and after change) and 2 good oil filters. a Supply of razor blades (40 pack) and a handle, and a good supply of rags. Don't forget the fact that when you pull the fuel feed line at the steel line that feeds the fuel pump (the larger one) it has to be plugged that same instant, or your tank will drain on to the floor. Let me suggest these rock arms, for 40 more, look and compare, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LU...t=LUN-85300LUN good luck,,C.

Good call I was not thinking about these other gaskets.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 04:20 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
Your missing the intake manifold EDL-7104.

You are certain your block has not been decked before you use
the .015 gaskets ?

Are you figuring two of the FPP-1094 they come one to the package.

Will you reuse the header gaskets or buy new one's ?
new valve cover gaskets ?
Thermosat gasket ?
one of the new thermostats that if it fails it fails in the open position ?

The proform rockers would save you $60.00 with the price you put up earlier on the harland sharp, consider doing a thread asking about the proform rockers see how many people have them if anyone has had a problem with them.
I was planning to reuse the 2101 Performer for now. I'll replace when I do the bottom end -- at least that is what I was thinking. Any big issues?

How can I tell if it has not been decked? I should be able to see the SN stamp? I was also going to verify bore when I pull heads off before I buy the head gaskets. I did see the head gaskets come one per and have two on my order.

Yes. reusing header gaskets . . . I just replaced those, hardly any miles on them. Valve cover gaskets are good too. I will replace when I buy new valve covers in January.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll post about roller rocker.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 04:35 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373

You'll also need a fuel pump gasket, a front cover gasket and seal, good idea to change the H/B, one tube ARP thread sealer, 4-6 tubes of Lunati cam lube (there small), one tube of ARP assembly lube, and high temp RTV. Don't forget a harmonic balancer puller/installer, an engine primer tool, a cam handle, and a good Torque wrench. 12 quarts of Valvoline 30wt VR1 racing oil (for breakin and after change) and 2 good oil filters. a Supply of razor blades (40 pack) and a handle, and a good supply of rags. Don't forget the fact that when you pull the fuel feed line at the steel line that feeds the fuel pump (the larger one) it has to be plugged that same instant, or your tank will drain on to the floor. Let me suggest these rock arms, for 40 more, look and compare, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LU...t=LUN-85300LUN good luck,,C.

Good list of miscellaneous items -- thanks. Am I removing fuel pump? Didn't realize. It works off the cam?
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by redman76
I was planning to reuse the 2101 Performer for now. I'll replace when I do the bottom end -- at least that is what I was thinking. Any big issues?

How can I tell if it has not been decked? I should be able to see the SN stamp? I was also going to verify bore when I pull heads off before I buy the head gaskets. I did see the head gaskets come one per and have two on my order.

Yes. reusing header gaskets . . . I just replaced those, hardly any miles on them. Valve cover gaskets are good too. I will replace when I buy new valve covers in January.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll post about roller rocker.
I'm pretty certain the performer will not fit the Brodix IK200s big
intake runner opening.

You need minimum .035 piston to head clearance.

To check how far the pistons are down you need a bridge and dial indicator, I had JustinD buy one check his before using the .015 gasket.

If your not certain your block has not been cut you had better find out how far the pistons are down in the hole.

If you just slap on a thicker higher volume gasket you will ruin
your compression gains with the new heads.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 4, 2009 at 04:47 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by redman76
Good list of miscellaneous items -- thanks. Am I removing fuel pump? Didn't realize. It works off the cam?
Yes. off the cam. on reinstall, smear the rod with assembly lube to hold it in the bore while you install the pump. You should TDC the motor on #1 piston (0°), the pump rod will be uncompressed by the cam.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 05:01 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
I'm pretty certain the performer will not fit the Brodix IK200s big
intake runner opening.

You need minimum .035 piston to head clearance.

To check how far the pistons are down you need a bridge and dial indicator, I had JustinD buy one check his before using the .015 gasket.

If your not certain your block has not been cut you had better find out how far the pistons are down in the hole.

If you just slap on a thicker higher volume gasket you will ruin
your compression gains with the new heads.

Okay, I'll add the 7104. I'm not real sure history on motor other than it is not numbers matching. I have dial indicator, so I'll check.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 05:06 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by redman76
Okay, I'll add the 7104. I'm not real sure history on motor other than it is not numbers matching. I have dial indicator, so I'll check.
Check 1,7,2,8 cylinders, do you have a bridge.

don't take this step lightly if someone has cut your block .010
you don't know it without checking you can kiss your pistons heads goodby.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 4, 2009 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
Check 1,7,2,8 cylinders, do you have a bridge.

don't take this step lightly if someone has cut your block .010
you don't know it without checking you can kiss your pistons heads goodby.
I do not. Will one like this work:

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Dial...58139/10002/-1
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by redman76
It will work if your dial indicator will fit down it.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 4, 2009 at 07:08 PM.
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