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Are you sure regular new steel rockers will not work with the studs
brodix supplies you can buy a set for around $80.00, you just don't have a real need for roller rockers that will cost you $220.00 on up in price.
with LittleMouse. Like I said, the factory stamped steel rockers worked for me on the Brodix IK180's. I would at least try the factory rockers before you get the rollers, that is unless you just really want them. Your call.
I'm not stuck on the roller rockers. Just seemed between buying new stamped steel and studs, I was spending close to $150. $220 is not that much more. My original plan was to go with stamped steel rockers since there was no real benefit with rollers. I'll check first to see if the stamped steel will work before I buy any.
You're in the home stretch so I was reluctant to post anything, but I felt I had kind of an obligation of sorts to weather the flames and make an observation. Feel free to ignore
200cc heads with 350 CID, that cam, automatic transmission and 3.08 gears is going to create an engine with poor off-idle and low-speed driveability. It will have a broad, flat power curve with a mild peak around 5000 RPM. Bottom line that it will feel "lazy" until about 2500 - 3000 RPM. Sounds like you're willing to pay that price in exchange for buying one set of heads that you can use now and also support your future 383 build - but I thought it'd be worth setting expectations based on my experience.
You're in the home stretch so I was reluctant to post anything, but I felt I had kind of an obligation of sorts to weather the flames and make an observation. Feel free to ignore
200cc heads with 350 CID, that cam, automatic transmission and 3.08 gears is going to create an engine with poor off-idle and low-speed driveability. It will have a broad, flat power curve with a mild peak around 5000 RPM. Bottom line that it will feel "lazy" until about 2500 - 3000 RPM. Sounds like you're willing to pay that price in exchange for buying one set of heads that you can use now and also support your future 383 build - but I thought it'd be worth setting expectations based on my experience.
Hey Billla, a really, really appreciate and respect your opinion. You guys have much more experience than I do when it comes to this stuff. I guess I'm trying to tread water with sharks and not get bit. I understand all the risk, but I feel I have a pretty good migration plan. It may not be optimal with the approach I'm taking, but better than it currently is and not as good as it will be. The right thing to do would be to save up and do all at once. Unfortunately, it never seems to work out for me that way with 3 teenage boys and a wife helping to spend the $$$. I do a little more on the car each year. I'm in year 5 right now and will upgrade the top-end. Hopefully next year, I can start on the bottom end. It's all coming together, I'm learning tons, getting great experience and having fun.
Again, thanks for all your input. I started reading your thread on engine builds with great interest, so thanks for your time putting that together too.
don't let me talk you out of the $218.00 harland sharp if there what you want mostly I was trying to save you money when you said you were going to reuse some gaskets it sounds like you are stretching yourself to afford this.
Thanks for keeping me on track. I'm not trying to blow money, don't want to waste parts, but want to do it as right as I can with my limited (but expanding) knowledge and experience, and budget constraints. I feel very comfortable with where we are now. I think we have a solid plan, so I'll start getting some pricing on parts. In the meantime, I'll start tearing things down and get those critical measurements. Once I verify everything, I'll start ordering and buying everything I need. Then I'll start a new thread on my build progress.
I'll go ahead and order a bridge. I may need some help to make sure I measure correctly, but I'll let you know.
Also, I did a little research on which intakes should work with IK200s (1021000). On the Summit site, the Edelbrock 7104 is recommended and the 2101 is not listed. Just for kicks, I compared to the IK180 which does not have any specific recommendations for intakes. Don't really know if this means anything other than the 7104 should work just fine.
I called Jason at Brodix he said the Ik180, Ik200 both use the same
studs he did not know of a reason the ball stud rockers would not work
he said the only possible reason a ball stud might not work he could think of would be the taper at the bottom of the stud.
I asked him for the runner size opening demension, width is 1.340
hieght 2.210 the felpro 1206 gasket works with a demension of
1.31 width 2.21 height.
May want to see if the cometic gasket is a better match
The 7104 manifold shows to have port exit of 1.16 X 1.92
Obviously you will have to grind the manifold to the 1.34 X 2.21
to match the head runner entry.
It might sound scary but a simple dremel tool will do it.
I left this out earlier I know the demensions of the 1206 gasket,
entry size of the manifold did not know the actual size of the runner opening without calling brodix I was afraid if I mentioned this it would scare you off the 200 head for the 383 build. The Ik180 runner entry is smaller, anyway you know what you have to do its your call on the heads.
You just go an inch into the manifold to modify it for the bigger runner head.
Brodix does make a dual plane to match there head but I doubt it would allow you to use your Q-jet carb.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 5, 2009 at 06:09 PM.
I called Jason at Brodix he said the Ik180, Ik200 both use the same
studs he did not know of a reason the ball stud rockers would not work
he said the only possible reason a ball stud might not work he could think of would be the taper at the bottom of the stud.
I asked him for the runner size opening demension, width is 1.340
hieght 2.210 the felpro 1206 gasket works with a demension of
1.31 width 2.21 height.
The 7104 manifold shows to have port exit of 1.16 X 1.92
Obviously you will have to grind the manifold to the 1.34 X 2.21
to match the head runner entry.
It might sound scary but a simple dremel tool will do it.
Thanks for calling them! I saw where the Port Exit Dim on 2101 was different at 1.14 x 1.88 which is the same for the 2601. The 2601 was also recommended for the IK200s. I'm not sure how to interpret that.
I'm okay with port matching the intake. I've never done that, but it was on my list of things to learn. Sounds like I'll be learning sooner than later.
OK, finally got the compression test done. Here is what it looks like:
1- 165
3- 170
5- 175
7- 175
2- 170
4- 160
6- 165
8- 165
Those look OK? . . . Within 6%
Interesting I would have thought a 76cc head dished piston would have more like 145. you will tear it all apart look at what you have before ordering any parts, if it happens to have steel shim gaskets that tells a
story on the deck.