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Trailing Arm Bushing?

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Old 11-17-2009, 04:09 PM
  #41  
Mike Ward
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Originally Posted by Van Steel
Poly has yeild and it has deflection. What's the difference in the durameter reading from rubber and poly?
Dunno, you tell me. The ones I regretfully installed were as stiff as (insert lewd reference to teenage boy).

Your bushings may be better than the cr*p I got stuck with, but if they're equivalent to stock rubber, there goes all the 'handling improvements' the boy racer crowd think they're getting.
Old 11-17-2009, 04:48 PM
  #42  
Van Steel
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Dunno, you tell me. The ones I regretfully installed were as stiff as (insert lewd reference to teenage boy).

Your bushings may be better than the cr*p I got stuck with, but if they're equivalent to stock rubber, there goes all the 'handling improvements' the boy racer crowd think they're getting.
53 and 90-95. You may have gotten injection molded poly vs thermal set poly. Both have the same durameter reading but 1 is brittle and breaks down.
Old 01-14-2010, 09:27 PM
  #43  
mydejavooo
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Originally Posted by grandmastercorvette
And last but not least is the amount of side yoke run-out from the differential. If your side yokes have excessive run-out. you may still have a handling problem when you drive it at high speeds and hits ruts or groves in the road. If you have equal to or more than the thickness of a paper matchstick...the beginning of the end has occured and you are now on borrowed time...depending on how much you actually drive the car in a year.

"DUB"
Are you referring to the play in the rear end? I just bought a 76 project car, and when I took the wheels off today, you can move the trailing arm and shaft assembly in and out approximately 1/8" to 1/4". You can see that the trailing arm moves side to side in the area of the front bushing, and I am NOW concerned with what you stated regarding the run-out. Does the worn trailing arm bushings present with that sort of issue, or is this a bushing and rear-end issue?
Old 01-15-2010, 11:53 AM
  #44  
Clams Canino
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NO. He's refering to the 2 little stub axles that come out of the sides of the pumpkin.
That said... *part* of that lateral movement of the T/A is governed by the end-play of those 2 stub axles.

Bottom line is that you want the rear end as "tight" as possible. Wiggle that gets dangerous at high speeds, is also "notable" at moderate speeds. Just try to tighten up everything you can back there and don't overspeed the car beyond it's means.

-W
Old 01-15-2010, 06:31 PM
  #45  
mydejavooo
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Originally Posted by Clams Canino
NO. He's refering to the 2 little stub axles that come out of the sides of the pumpkin.
That said... *part* of that lateral movement of the T/A is governed by the end-play of those 2 stub axles.

Bottom line is that you want the rear end as "tight" as possible. Wiggle that gets dangerous at high speeds, is also "notable" at moderate speeds. Just try to tighten up everything you can back there and don't overspeed the car beyond it's means.

-W
Ok...that is the same movement that I'm seeing, and I know which parts you are referring to. The stub axles on mine move in and out slightly, with an audible "thunk". It's when I'm moving it that I also notice the leading TA arm moving, or rather "twisiting" in the spot where the bushing is. So my question is... or should I say questionS....is this is a sign of a worn set of TA bushings AND worn stub axles? How do you correct this issue? Is there is sleeve on the stub axle? I've just never dealt with this before, and not sure what is "normal" play. It seems a little too much to be normal, and I'm wondering if this is an expensive/difficult fix.

On a side note, I'm thinking that the rear spring is also worn and in need of replacement, because when the rear end is up in the air, the spring bolts are loose....like flopping around loose. Maybe the spring bolts are too long, I dunno. I noticed when the car was on the ground, the spring is almost flat, and if memory serves correct, it should have an arch to it.
Old 01-15-2010, 07:29 PM
  #46  
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[QUOTE=mydejavooo;1572767158]

So my question is... or should I say questionS....is this is a sign of a worn set of TA bushings AND worn stub axles? How do you correct this issue? Is there is sleeve on the stub axle?

To tighten all that up. You need to replace the T/A bushings, send the stub axles out for the service where they build the ends inside back up with a hardened steel "button". And replace the bushings on your strut rods while you're in there.

With all three of those done it's tighten up. From there you can replace springs, sway bars, shocks etc etc as you see fit.

I bought the $2100 total kit (front and rear) from Zip Corvette and went for the whole thing at once - shotgun method.

-W
Old 01-15-2010, 08:00 PM
  #47  
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[QUOTE=Clams Canino;1572767789]
Originally Posted by mydejavooo

So my question is... or should I say questionS....is this is a sign of a worn set of TA bushings AND worn stub axles? How do you correct this issue? Is there is sleeve on the stub axle?

To tighten all that up. You need to replace the T/A bushings, send the stub axles out for the service where they build the ends inside back up with a hardened steel "button". And replace the bushings on your strut rods while you're in there.

With all three of those done it's tighten up. From there you can replace springs, sway bars, shocks etc etc as you see fit.

I bought the $2100 total kit (front and rear) from Zip Corvette and went for the whole thing at once - shotgun method.

-W
Sweet! Sounds like I'm on the right track I guess. So is there a place that you would suggest to send the stub axles off to? And what should a guy be paying for that procedure?
Old 01-15-2010, 08:23 PM
  #48  
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All the major vendors have an exchange service. Just get one ones with the hardened stell buttons inserts on the ends.

You really need to get a free catalog from Ecklers, Zip, Corvette America etc etc etc...
And then study them like it was your job.

-W
Old 01-15-2010, 09:06 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Clams Canino
All the major vendors have an exchange service. Just get one ones with the hardened stell buttons inserts on the ends.

You really need to get a free catalog from Ecklers, Zip, Corvette America etc etc etc...
And then study them like it was your job.

-W
I've already worn out last year's Ecklers catalog...but I didn't focus on the stubs until THIS came along!
Old 01-15-2010, 09:10 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Clams Canino
All the major vendors have an exchange service. Just get one ones with the hardened stell buttons inserts on the ends.

You really need to get a free catalog from Ecklers, Zip, Corvette America etc etc etc...
And then study them like it was your job.

-W
By the way...are the stub shafts easy to replace?
Old 04-17-2010, 11:15 AM
  #51  
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Well I have had my 80 out this past week, and have noticed so "looseness" in the rear end when under acceleration. You give a little "blip" of the throttle, and the rear end would move (what felt like) side to side. Obviously a little on the disconcerting side. From everything that I had read, sounded like TA bushings or the differential pinion bushing. So, I ordered both from Ecklers. They arrived yesterday, and I jacked up the rear....lifting up a bit on the left side of the rear leaf to undo the spring bolt....and the whole left trailing arm is flopping around in the frame pocket like a dead fish!!!!! (Do dead fish REALLY flop around??) I was FLOORED by the amount of movement! There's is literally 3/4-1" of forward and back, up and down movement, and it's almost like there are no bushings in there at all! No WONDER the rear end was moving around!

So I may tackle this job this weekend, but it is a little daunting. The kit I got has poly bushings and SAYS you don't have to drop the TA all the way out. The one question I have......so you put the shims in between the outer washer and the bushing, and then the inner shaft is flared.......how would they either add or remove shims at the alignment shop?? It would seem that once the shims were on there, that they are a permanent addition to the bushing assembly? Am I mistaken on that point?? http://www.vbandp.com/instructions/41042.pdf

I just don't want to mess things up, since I have never done this repair before. I am confident with everything else that needs to be done in order to get the TA OUT, but it's the actual installation of the bushings, cups, and shims in the arm that I am concerned about. Once the inner sleeve is flared....there's no turning back or changing anything, right??

Deja

Last edited by mydejavooo; 04-17-2010 at 12:31 PM.
Old 04-17-2010, 12:30 PM
  #52  
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Anyone??
Old 04-17-2010, 01:16 PM
  #53  
Mike Ward
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The alignment shims are a separate deal from the bushing assembly shims.
Old 04-17-2010, 01:16 PM
  #54  
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One you shim the TA bushings per the instruction and flare it - the TA is done.
This has everything to do with bushing fit and nothing to do with alignment. Alignment is done via mush bigger shims to the left and right of the TA assembly in the frame of the car.

-W (headed back to work)

Last edited by Clams Canino; 01-20-2011 at 10:41 PM.
Old 01-19-2011, 12:12 PM
  #55  
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Old 10-29-2017, 08:21 AM
  #56  
Sig1977
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Default C3 Trailing Arm Rebuild

Has anyone tried Vtech Corvette for trailing arm rebuild?

Thanks
Old 10-29-2017, 08:38 AM
  #57  
68notray
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This is what my poly bushings looked like - GONE. Just the bolt left. Needless to say it handled poorly. Went back with stock rubber.
Old 10-29-2017, 10:14 AM
  #58  
resdoggie
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Originally Posted by 68notray
This is what my poly bushings looked like - GONE. Just the bolt left. Needless to say it handled poorly. Went back with stock rubber.
Originally Posted by Van Steel
53 and 90-95. You may have gotten injection molded poly vs thermal set poly. Both have the same durameter reading but 1 is brittle and breaks down.

Maybe you had the brittle ones?
Old 10-29-2017, 10:34 AM
  #59  
AkrHack
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Originally Posted by 68notray
This is what my poly bushings looked like - GONE. Just the bolt left. Needless to say it handled poorly. Went back with stock rubber.
Wow. How long were they on your car before the disintegrated like that?



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