Universal joint / halshaft question.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 331
Likes: 1
Universal joint / halshaft question.
Going to pull down my half shafts and check everything since I havent in about 20 years. Stock 70 LT -1 car. Are there better U-joints out there that I should go back with for improved strength?
Figure while I had eveything appart I may as well. What's the best and strongest u-joint for these cars now and who sells them? thanks
Figure while I had eveything appart I may as well. What's the best and strongest u-joint for these cars now and who sells them? thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
In general the non-greasable joints are considered stronger than the greasable ones because there aren't any channels drilled through them. Someone like Van Steel could probably give you advice on the best brand. I bought my U-joints at NAPA. Haven't tested them with the LS1 yet.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
U-joints are relatively inexpensive...so buy a good name brand and buy the most expensive solid-core joints you can find. The strength of the U-joint is in the material (mid-carbon steel), the method of heat treatment (case hardened with a strong, resiliant core), and careful machining (precision tolerances, smooth fillet radii, and no surface stress risers). These are things that low-dollar, third-world sources don't do well or don't do at all. "Working" parts should be well-made and of proper materials. You are at risk with anything less. Well known US, German, & Japanese companies make high-quality steel components; it's probably best to stay away from Mexican and Chinese steel driveline & suspension components.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Spicer solid U-joint w/o grease fittings just like Chevy installed
If your trying to do it yourself, you need a fixture plate for the outer flanges to bolt to so you don't bend them while pressing out/in old/new U-joints.
If your trying to do it yourself, you need a fixture plate for the outer flanges to bolt to so you don't bend them while pressing out/in old/new U-joints.
Last edited by ddecart; Oct 29, 2009 at 10:01 AM. Reason: removed non-supporting vendor info
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,675
Likes: 13
From: Sudbury MA
I just learned of this gentleman who makes up these plates and I am going to have one made for my 68 so I will have it the next time I need to do them.
Good to have in the toolbox since I plan to keep the car.
Gary.Ramadei@radiall.com
He wrote up a nice how to do it article on one of the forums, maybe it was this one, not sure as I read many Corvette web sites.
Kurt
Good to have in the toolbox since I plan to keep the car.
Gary.Ramadei@radiall.com
He wrote up a nice how to do it article on one of the forums, maybe it was this one, not sure as I read many Corvette web sites.
Kurt
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 805
Likes: 5
From: Naperville Illinois
It's not the half-shafts you need to worry about. The u-joint flange (it bolts to the drive flange on your spindle) is prone to bending when the u-joints are removed or installed. The fixture plate is simply a piece of flat steel that is milled so that the u-joint flange can be bolted flat against it. Once bolted to the plate, the flange cannot bend.
I used the Spicer solid joints that others have recommended, ordered mine from Duntov. Search the forum for GTR1999's installation procedure.
I used the Spicer solid joints that others have recommended, ordered mine from Duntov. Search the forum for GTR1999's installation procedure.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
As far as the fixture plate I made one out of flat steel. It worked but I now use an old spindle flange. It works perfectly. Just bolt the spindle flange to the half shaft flange and I have not bent one since.
