I was preparing to order new SS fuel lines (Tank to pump and return line) on my 71 coupe when I noticed that the vender’s notes said the body must be lifted from the frame to install. Is this correct? Can it be done without removing the body from the frame?
Thanks Scott

 

can it be done ?
maybe... but it will cost you a lot of swear words, and Aggravation.
I would suggest loosen all body bolts and raise the Rt side only,
about 2" and then replace the line.
Please Do Not add Rubber lines in the middle, you will be tempted to cut the line in half.
good luck, and please be careful fiberglass and gasoline make a great FireBall !
69VETT

 

That is correct.

 

Thank you gentlemen for confirming this. It sounds like a good time to replace the body mount (bolts & bushings) as well. I have been inspired to replace the old fuel lines by a few posts here showing what can happen when fuel lines fail. The whole fire ball thing looks like an adventure that I want to skip.
Many thanks for your help
Scott

 

oh, oh-i see where this one's heading. while i'm at it......

 

Kortensi 2013

 

Ya, I some times don't know when to stop

 

Hi Roco,
You mentioned the body mounts and bolts.... there's a LONG list of things that need to be loosened or taken off to lift the body even a tiny bit beyond the body bolts.
That's why some people have spent a lot of time unbending and rebending the lines in stead.
Also, think about using regular steel lines for the long lines. I believe they're a lot easier to work with.
Have fun!!!
Regards,
Alan

 

Hey Alan
My 71 has the original fuel lines and brake lines I was going to replace both. Will I run into the same thing on the left side with the brake lines? I am assuming that they run along a portion of the top of the frame. What am I getting myself in for?
Thanks
Scott

 

Scott, if I remember correctly the brake lines aren't much of an issue and can be done without messing with the body.

To be honest, if your frame lines aren't leaking, leave 'em as is.

 

Hey Jim,
I was trying get in front of any problems (mostly safety issues) that might be waiting to happen. I lost a 911 Porsche to a fuel line fire and had the brakes fail on a 63 Buick (single master cylinder) I do not want to lose my Corvette to either. Maybe the old saying “If its not broke don’t fix it” comes into play here.
Thanks for your help
Scott

 

I certainly understand where your coming from!!! Perhaps there's a way to rig something up with a pressure gauge so you can do a leak down test with air?

 

Poster #9 in this thread did it without removing the body:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...ver-frame.html

 

those orginal gas lines rust from the inside, No-way of knowing when they will rust thru,
at 40 years old, I would not choose this direction... "If it ain't broke leave it alone"

let me provide some incentive to replace the Gas line ! 69Vett

 

Yep… that’s the picture that did it….. made me start thinking about my lines I am so afraid of fire. I am replacing the fuel tank next month the old one is already out. I guess I will take a run at the lines as well.
Thanks
Scott

 

As Alan said, separating the frame and body involves loosening a whole lot of things. I've done it. It's just tedious.

What I did was to not lift the body off the frame, but rather drop the frame from the body. And when you drop the frame, you only have to drop the rear of the car maybe 10 inches. The front of the frame will have to drop, but it only has to go down a couple of inches.

When you drop the frame, replace the stock radiator support frame to body frame with long bolts. This will allow the frame to drop down, but when you raise the frame up at the end of the job, these long bolts will guide the frame up into the correct location...a perfect match.

I dropped the frame from my 68, installed new gas lines, painted the frame where previously I couldn't get to it, and re-installed the frame to the body. I did this all by myself.

Before starting I jacked up the car and placed a whole lot of 4x4's underneath the body pans and also the nose was supported by a jack and another jack underneath the differential. I did have my rear fuel tank out and I could support the rear fiberglass also. I used a whole bunch of Sears bottle jacks/4x4's to hold the body up.

Actually I had the engine out also. The frame only weighs about 300 pounds. The diff is about 95 pounds. Don't know how much the suspension parts weigh. Anyhow I had basically a roller frame and it was a whole lot lighter than the body. So lowering the frame involved the less heavy component.

It was really fun in a way. Just very tedious. It was a great feeling to conquer this problem.

 

This post has got me interested. Let me ask... can you just disconnect the old fuel lines or remove them where they are accessible and replace the fuel line with a new one by running a different route underneath the car back to the engine? Or do you have use a pre-fitted kit for these cars in place of the old fuel lines? Seems like there would be a kit you can fabricate as you run the new fuel line in place.

BTW- that is a disturbing picture above............

 

My experience was with my 1969 Camaro:

I bought 3/8 aluminum coiled fuel line from summit racing. it is super easy to bend by hand and run the length of the car. It doesnt ever rust and looks great. Since I was paranoid that the aluminum might puncture with a road rock bouncing up from the ground, I covered the entire length with 1/2 fuel line for protection.

Is there anything wrong with using aluminum fuel line?

 

aluminum is acceptable, Stainless is Best.
The rolled up alum. tubing is easy to install, but tough to make it look straight.