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Engine cuts out and stalls while driving.

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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 05:38 AM
  #41  
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Ahh, just put you on the ignore list Turtle. Now your posts or PMs don't show up. What a lovely feature that is, I like this site again now.
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 09:15 AM
  #42  
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How about you guys settling this disagreement by attempting to reproduce the fault? Make a quick video of the results and post it on YouTube. Loser sends winner a case of beer and says sorry.

So?
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 04:57 PM
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Do you have an elec choke? Id it is not set right it can cause this.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 04:55 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
How about you guys settling this disagreement by attempting to reproduce the fault? Make a quick video of the results and post it on YouTube. Loser sends winner a case of beer and says sorry.

So?
I'm not going to risk frying my expensive billet MSD distributor.

I don't need to prove anything. I built a 700hp engine in my garage that runs off of 91 octane, then I tuned it by myself. What has Turtle done? His username is a joke about how slow his car is, and for a while his avatar was a pic of his rusted out stock engine.

So if you want to take his engine advice over mine, that's your prerogative.


To reiterate the theory of what went wrong: The resistance of the air is almost infinite (before it ionizes) while the resistance of the copper core melted to the grounded header is comparatively almost nothing so when the spark plug wire is shorted out, the voltage cannot build up in the coil.

Last edited by enkeivette; Feb 9, 2010 at 05:05 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:38 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by enkeivette
To reiterate the theory of what went wrong: The resistance of the air is almost infinite (before it ionizes) while the resistance of the copper core melted to the grounded header is comparatively almost nothing so when the spark plug wire is shorted out, the voltage cannot build up in the coil.
I'm not an EE but this doesn't seem right. The recovery from 1 cylinder being grounded should be nearly instant.
I'm visualizing in your case (where 1 wire grounded out the entire secondary ignition) to be something like a bad cap where the center coil lead takes the easiest path to ground.Once the carbon trace has formed on the inside of the cap the cap is done. IMO some of these small diameter caps in combination with very high output coils are susceptible to this.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by enkeivette
To reiterate the theory of what went wrong: The resistance of the air is almost infinite (before it ionizes) while the resistance of the copper core melted to the grounded header is comparatively almost nothing so when the spark plug wire is shorted out, the voltage cannot build up in the coil.
You don't have a direct short. Have you forgotten about the gap from the rotor to the terminal inside the gap?
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 11:36 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
You don't have a direct short. Have you forgotten about the gap from the rotor to the terminal inside the gap?
Bingo.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 01:48 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by enkeivette
I'm not going to risk frying my expensive billet MSD distributor.

..........

So if you want to take his engine advice over mine, that's your prerogative.

I'm not taking sides in this as I simply don't know one way or the other who's right. I have my opinions and theories, but like assh*les, so does everybody.

It would take one or two seconds to prove your theory- take the already burnt wire, and with the engine at idle force it to touch ground. If the engine dies, I'd say that you were right.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 02:28 PM
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Knowing very little and probably showing my ignorance...but...just an idea.

wasnt an old school check to see if you had a spark to take off a plug cap and ground it out to see if it sparked? Ive done this a number of times and gone a little too far and shorted the lead right out but it has never caused an engine to die, just miss a bit.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
I'm not taking sides in this as I simply don't know one way or the other who's right. I have my opinions and theories, but like assh*les, so does everybody.

It would take one or two seconds to prove your theory- take the already burnt wire, and with the engine at idle force it to touch ground. If the engine dies, I'd say that you were right.
Already cut the bad portion of the wire off and moved the terminal up. Further more, I'm about 100 miles away from my car for school. And there is no interior right now. I'm in the process of glassing up a custom center console for my 6 speed shifter and my Mustang e-brake which will clear the T56.

Bashcraft, if you're talking about the rotor tip where is hits the posts. To me that looks like it actually grazes and makes contact. If not, then this is even more confusing. Maybe the gap there is so much smaller that it jumps before the plug.



Sorry that I don't have more answers for you guys. I don't have a degree in electrical science. Anyone else with an MSD HEI should be able to replicate this just as easily as I did if you guys are really that curious. It's easy to sit on your *** and type, but if the tech answer is that important to you, you know what to do. Besides, all I could do is prove that it actually happened with a video. Which I don't feel the need to do. I don't have any better way of testing this to show what the cause is, even if I were to replicate it.

Last edited by enkeivette; Feb 9, 2010 at 03:30 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by enkeivette
Bashcraft, if you're talking about the rotor tip where is hits the posts. To me that looks like it actually grazes and makes contact. If not, then this is even more confusing. Maybe the gap there is so much smaller that it jumps before the plug.
[/B]
The rotor does not contact the post so you can never have a direct short.

To be honest, what you're describing does not happen if everything else is right. You have, or had a problem somewhere else that was inadvertantly corrected, and may or may not reappear.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 09:53 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
The rotor does not contact the post so you can never have a direct short.

To be honest, what you're describing does not happen if everything else is right. You have, or had a problem somewhere else that was inadvertantly corrected, and may or may not reappear.
Doubt it. Car has been driving fine for months since I fixed this. No misses or anything like that.

Maybe Turtle guessed it right up front, maybe the MSD unit has some shut off protection feature.
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Here's a link to the digital module. I want to upgrade to one of these. I have the analog module right now. This thing does have some smarts built in.

http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedF...structions.pdf
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 04:58 PM
  #54  
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So, if the wire is melted to the header...the spark does not ignite the fuel.....when the fuel does ignite on the wrong stroke when the valves are open......the expanding fuel/air mixture could blow back to the intake....and rob other cylinders of fuel/air temperarily causing a hesitation.

I know this differes from any other argument in here, and I'm certainly not an electrical expert, but.....can't we all just get along?
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 07:42 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by builder
So, if the wire is melted to the header...the spark does not ignite the fuel.....when the fuel does ignite on the wrong stroke when the valves are open......the expanding fuel/air mixture could blow back to the intake....and rob other cylinders of fuel/air temperarily causing a hesitation.

I know this differes from any other argument in here, and I'm certainly not an electrical expert, but.....can't we all just get along?
Interesting, but wouldn't the fuel just blow out the exhaust?
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by enkeivette
Interesting, but wouldn't the fuel just blow out the exhaust?

Yes. If it were to either burn or explode in the exhaust (commonly called a backfire) it would have no effect upstream or on other cylinders.
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Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by enkeivette
Doubt it. Car has been driving fine for months since I fixed this. No misses or anything like that.

Maybe Turtle guessed it right up front, maybe the MSD unit has some shut off protection feature.

Your initial post was dated 02-05-2010. Now you say that the car has been running fine for months since you fixed the problem. Was this just a little test for everybody or am I missing something here.

No big deal either way to me, just curious!!!
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 12:09 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Red 71
or am I missing something here.
Just a full bore pissing match that I'm surprised has been let ramble on for this long
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 03:41 AM
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Default Check power wire voltage

This sounds like a problem that I had.

You may only be getting 9 volts due to a resistance wire and your distributor probably needs 12 volts.

Check the voltage on your distributor power source. You may need to get a different 12 volt (ignition key) source.
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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 05:13 AM
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Red71, it was a test.

2K C5, I'll test the voltage at the dist and report back next weekend when I drive back home.
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