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5.3 swap question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
Your radiatir will work fine if it worked ok before.
The LQ water pump outlet will hiy the DBW TB on your LS1 intake. You'll need an LS1 WP.
As far as the fans, most people use duals. You've got several options. There is actually a pinout for electric fans on all the truck computers I've seen, even if the truck came without an electric. Just have it programmed to work.
There is a pinout for AC recirculation door that others have used for an additional fan.
On my aftermarket Vintage Air, I used a trinary switch to trigger the fan in addition to the computer fan pinout.
The LQ water pump outlet will hiy the DBW TB on your LS1 intake. You'll need an LS1 WP.
As far as the fans, most people use duals. You've got several options. There is actually a pinout for electric fans on all the truck computers I've seen, even if the truck came without an electric. Just have it programmed to work.
There is a pinout for AC recirculation door that others have used for an additional fan.
On my aftermarket Vintage Air, I used a trinary switch to trigger the fan in addition to the computer fan pinout.
Hopefully the engine goes in tomorrow.
got the z06 cam in today and the adapter plates and motor mount bolted.
all i have now is install the flex plate and adapter.
i wanna thank you guys for all the help.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
Update!
Engines in the car!
well mostely... its not fully bolting to the trans and theres a small gap. My friend thinks the spline from the trans isnt matching to the tq converter.... we've tryed wrenching and using crowbars with no resolve... should i take out the engine mount then slip them in after everything is lined up?
we start again on friday or sunday. any advice on what to do?
me working on the engine mount adaptor plate...i put them on backwards
Engines in the car!
well mostely... its not fully bolting to the trans and theres a small gap. My friend thinks the spline from the trans isnt matching to the tq converter.... we've tryed wrenching and using crowbars with no resolve... should i take out the engine mount then slip them in after everything is lined up?
we start again on friday or sunday. any advice on what to do?
me working on the engine mount adaptor plate...i put them on backwards
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
It's usually a good idea to mock up the engine/trans outside the car. I've seen some swaps where the housing had to be clearanced for the starter. Also, make sure your TC is fully seated in the trans, then bolt to the flexplate.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
Set the torque converter in the tranny first and then bolt it to the flexplate. Did you do the wiring yourself?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
I was hoping not to pull the trans. I just picked up flex plate wrench hopefully i can spin it till it locks up. Im unsure about putting the TC on first then after bolting it up....just bolting it to the flex out of the car was a PITA. No room for my wrench and i got chubby fingers so yea...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 14
From: A town SC
Pull that convertor off and install it on the trans first, Convertor mounting tabs for flywheel should be 3/8 to 1/2 inch behind trans bell housing bolt flange to be fully seated. It will go together the way your trying it but the success rate without breaking the front pump of the trans or the bellhousing is less than 3% in my opinion. 2 cents deposited
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
Pull that convertor off and install it on the trans first, Convertor mounting tabs for flywheel should be 3/8 to 1/2 inch behind trans bell housing bolt flange to be fully seated. It will go together the way your trying it but the success rate without breaking the front pump of the trans or the bellhousing is less than 3% in my opinion. 2 cents deposited
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
Is the bolt on all the way? The engine is suppose to turn over when you turn the crank pulley bolt. When I did the cam swap on my brothers '01 Z28 I did the same thing and everything turned as it should. Is there a way to spin the flexplate, by hand, from underneath the car? It shouldn't be too hard to do, I've done this on my '78 Z28, but that's a gen I 350.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 14
From: A town SC
Is the bolt on all the way? The engine is suppose to turn over when you turn the crank pulley bolt. When I did the cam swap on my brothers '01 Z28 I did the same thing and everything turned as it should. Is there a way to spin the flexplate, by hand, from underneath the car? It shouldn't be too hard to do, I've done this on my '78 Z28, but that's a gen I 350.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
You might be correct. I'll have to check on my 5.3L engine I have on the stand. It should turn since it's connected to the crank.
Last edited by jordan89; Apr 28, 2010 at 10:15 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
The oil pan comes down in the center, but there are 2 "inspection plate" covers, one on each side. There should be enough room on the passenger side.
If the crank bolt just turns, you are loosening it (turn the other way), it isn't tight (seat with your old bolt, retorque with a new one), or it's stripped (unlikely). Remove the plugs to make turning easier.
If the crank bolt just turns, you are loosening it (turn the other way), it isn't tight (seat with your old bolt, retorque with a new one), or it's stripped (unlikely). Remove the plugs to make turning easier.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
The oil pan comes down in the center, but there are 2 "inspection plate" covers, one on each side. There should be enough room on the passenger side.
If the crank bolt just turns, you are loosening it (turn the other way), it isn't tight (seat with your old bolt, retorque with a new one), or it's stripped (unlikely). Remove the plugs to make turning easier.
If the crank bolt just turns, you are loosening it (turn the other way), it isn't tight (seat with your old bolt, retorque with a new one), or it's stripped (unlikely). Remove the plugs to make turning easier.
Use the old bolt to turn the engine, if you didn't already install the new one. If the new one is already in and tight, then you should be able to turn the rotating assembly over.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
You should be able to just grab the front lower pulley and start working it back and forth into the direction you need. If you want to make it easier, remove the spark plugs so there is no compression.
To also allow the trans to glide in easier, grease the alignment dowels on the motor and the holes on the tranny bellhousing. With torque converter fully seated in the trans, you will have more than enough room to mount the tranny. There should be a good 1/4 inch of clearance from flexplate to converter with the converter fully seated and the tranny fully mounted. You should be able to spin the converter with the tranny fully mounted to the motor with no binding. Use the free converter to align up to the flexplate bolt holes. Easy as pie really.
This can be done without anyone's help. Have the motor on the mounts and angled downward at the rear to allow easier mating up for the tranny. Keep the tranny of a floor jack with a plywood piece on the tranny pan. Use some leverage to angle up the tranny and slide it in, with jack facing straight to the rear of the car so you can slide it forward.
To also allow the trans to glide in easier, grease the alignment dowels on the motor and the holes on the tranny bellhousing. With torque converter fully seated in the trans, you will have more than enough room to mount the tranny. There should be a good 1/4 inch of clearance from flexplate to converter with the converter fully seated and the tranny fully mounted. You should be able to spin the converter with the tranny fully mounted to the motor with no binding. Use the free converter to align up to the flexplate bolt holes. Easy as pie really.
This can be done without anyone's help. Have the motor on the mounts and angled downward at the rear to allow easier mating up for the tranny. Keep the tranny of a floor jack with a plywood piece on the tranny pan. Use some leverage to angle up the tranny and slide it in, with jack facing straight to the rear of the car so you can slide it forward.