5.3 swap question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
thats the thing there an inch gap between the trans and the motor. also the mounts dont line up all the way i got one side in but the other is refusing to go in to the spot. i know the spindle that sticks from the trans to the tc is in and the only thing i can think of is that its not lined up..... as much as id like to brave this on my own id like to have a second set of hands to work the jack and engine lift as i push or pull you know....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
Did you try to mount the trans up outside the car?
Usually a good idea on these swaps to check for intereference issues (ie. the starter).
As for the engine mount, I had to make a couple 1/4" spacers between the SBC mount and the adapter. Aslso note there are 2 different length SBC mounts.
Usually a good idea on these swaps to check for intereference issues (ie. the starter).
As for the engine mount, I had to make a couple 1/4" spacers between the SBC mount and the adapter. Aslso note there are 2 different length SBC mounts.
Last edited by Garys 68; May 3, 2010 at 04:29 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
So an update....
Got the tranny bolted to the engine i was hoping mating the two would pull the engine mounts in place but i didnt...still a few cm off o the driver side... for the life of me ive tried using a crowbar and leveraging it in place with no luck.
any way if i heat up the metal via blow toruch would it be easyer to get it in place then? or should i pull off the mount and try to bend it?
Got the tranny bolted to the engine i was hoping mating the two would pull the engine mounts in place but i didnt...still a few cm off o the driver side... for the life of me ive tried using a crowbar and leveraging it in place with no luck.
any way if i heat up the metal via blow toruch would it be easyer to get it in place then? or should i pull off the mount and try to bend it?
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
Update!
SO finally got the motor mounted properly! took me forever but i like this crowbar method a friend of mine came over and was like "aaron why are you using a steal pipe?" and pulled out his crowbar we spent an hour lifting and droping the motor till finally it got in place. Then in victory i got on the engine to give it a finally jump and it sat in place.
i feel super happy and excited. now for a few more questions about the fuel lines.
1) can i use my original gas tank and just drill a return line?
2) where should i mount the fuel pump? near the motor? on route(under the car) or get an intank pump?
3) what kinda lines should i run? i was thinking cheap rubber tubes since its a return. Or do i want the steal braded ones or the a metal one?
Hopefully I get the tq coverter bolted to the flexplate on friday.
SO finally got the motor mounted properly! took me forever but i like this crowbar method a friend of mine came over and was like "aaron why are you using a steal pipe?" and pulled out his crowbar we spent an hour lifting and droping the motor till finally it got in place. Then in victory i got on the engine to give it a finally jump and it sat in place.
i feel super happy and excited. now for a few more questions about the fuel lines.
1) can i use my original gas tank and just drill a return line?
2) where should i mount the fuel pump? near the motor? on route(under the car) or get an intank pump?
3) what kinda lines should i run? i was thinking cheap rubber tubes since its a return. Or do i want the steal braded ones or the a metal one?
Hopefully I get the tq coverter bolted to the flexplate on friday.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
Chances are that your tank already has a retun line on the passenger side, near the top.
In tank pump are generally considered best, but can be expensive to mod the tank. Inline pumps MUST be mounted low and close to the tank. My pump and FPR is mounted inside the passenger frame rail next to the pump.
You're dealling with fuel at 50psi, dont skimp on lines. Plenty have used braided hose with sucess. I went with hard line and flared everything for AN fittings. The return is low pressure, so that can be a standard rubber fuel hose.
In tank pump are generally considered best, but can be expensive to mod the tank. Inline pumps MUST be mounted low and close to the tank. My pump and FPR is mounted inside the passenger frame rail next to the pump.
You're dealling with fuel at 50psi, dont skimp on lines. Plenty have used braided hose with sucess. I went with hard line and flared everything for AN fittings. The return is low pressure, so that can be a standard rubber fuel hose.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
Are you already planning an external pump or do you want to go with an in-tank style?
If you want the reliability of the intank style, maybe try to get ahold of a Corvette salvage yard, like Contemporary Corvette in Bristol, Pa and see if they can sell you a complete 82 tank with sending unit.
I have seen lots of external mount set-ups with prefilter-->pump-->99+ C5 regulator using the existing fuel feed & return from your carb'd set-up tank.
B.
If you want the reliability of the intank style, maybe try to get ahold of a Corvette salvage yard, like Contemporary Corvette in Bristol, Pa and see if they can sell you a complete 82 tank with sending unit.
I have seen lots of external mount set-ups with prefilter-->pump-->99+ C5 regulator using the existing fuel feed & return from your carb'd set-up tank.
B.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
Are you already planning an external pump or do you want to go with an in-tank style?
If you want the reliability of the intank style, maybe try to get ahold of a Corvette salvage yard, like Contemporary Corvette in Bristol, Pa and see if they can sell you a complete 82 tank with sending unit.
I have seen lots of external mount set-ups with prefilter-->pump-->99+ C5 regulator using the existing fuel feed & return from your carb'd set-up tank.
B.
If you want the reliability of the intank style, maybe try to get ahold of a Corvette salvage yard, like Contemporary Corvette in Bristol, Pa and see if they can sell you a complete 82 tank with sending unit.
I have seen lots of external mount set-ups with prefilter-->pump-->99+ C5 regulator using the existing fuel feed & return from your carb'd set-up tank.
B.
what sorta pump should i be using? goal is 500hp to the motor eventurally... right now i got is a cam and springs, im gonna port out my TB and eventually pick up an ls6 intake or a fast one.
Last edited by 74batmobile; Jun 29, 2010 at 04:50 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
I think the Walbro 255 is a selection that gets made alot in the external set-up.
You might find some part number info for all items for this complete set-up in the LS swap sticky thread here or you can go to the LS1Tech.com forum and check it out in the Conversions and Hybrid section.
B.
You might find some part number info for all items for this complete set-up in the LS swap sticky thread here or you can go to the LS1Tech.com forum and check it out in the Conversions and Hybrid section.
B.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
just lil test fitting... the driver side motor mount isnt bolting up properly... i got it over the frame but the bolt holes are off by a few cm...might need to drill the hole bigger... I tried cranking the pulley to turn the flexplate with no resolve... hopefully this weekend ill get the pumps all bolted up...
Last edited by 74batmobile; Jul 2, 2010 at 04:16 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
Hey question guys my fuel rail sits kinda high...well actully the metal tubing in the center sits high... can i cut it and either
A. weld it back together with some with about an inch missing
B. use a steel braid fuel line and replace it?
also
tq conveter question
so i got my arp bolts in and was gonna bolt up the Tq converter and even after the engine is straight the flexplate wont spin. I tried turning at the pulley with no luck... i twisted the crank bolt and that just came loose... should i try to pull the pulley? not sure how to get it bolted up....well i got one bolted but thats was it with out it spinning..
PS
HAPPY 4th of JUly
A. weld it back together with some with about an inch missing
B. use a steel braid fuel line and replace it?
also
tq conveter question
so i got my arp bolts in and was gonna bolt up the Tq converter and even after the engine is straight the flexplate wont spin. I tried turning at the pulley with no luck... i twisted the crank bolt and that just came loose... should i try to pull the pulley? not sure how to get it bolted up....well i got one bolted but thats was it with out it spinning..
PS
HAPPY 4th of JUly
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19
First thing, figure why the motor wont turn over. Did it ever turn over? Is it seized? Or will it only not turn over with the trans bolted to it.
Fuel rail, Are you using the truck injectors with plastic tip removed, and F body O rings? If so, your best bet is buying an aftermarket fuel rail and use it with a walbro pump, vette FPR, and returnless system.
Fuel rail, Are you using the truck injectors with plastic tip removed, and F body O rings? If so, your best bet is buying an aftermarket fuel rail and use it with a walbro pump, vette FPR, and returnless system.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: milpitas ca
First thing, figure why the motor wont turn over. Did it ever turn over? Is it seized? Or will it only not turn over with the trans bolted to it.
Fuel rail, Are you using the truck injectors with plastic tip removed, and F body O rings? If so, your best bet is buying an aftermarket fuel rail and use it with a walbro pump, vette FPR, and returnless system.
Fuel rail, Are you using the truck injectors with plastic tip removed, and F body O rings? If so, your best bet is buying an aftermarket fuel rail and use it with a walbro pump, vette FPR, and returnless system.
right now im just using the stock truck injectors and rail i havent put them on yet just test fitting to see if it would clear the hood which it hasnt.
finally got the motor bolted down... i really hope a seized engine isnt what im looking at...or im just gonna cry...
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Hey question guys my fuel rail sits kinda high...well actully the metal tubing in the center sits high... can i cut it and either
A. weld it back together with some with about an inch missing
B. use a steel braid fuel line and replace it?
also
tq conveter question
so i got my arp bolts in and was gonna bolt up the Tq converter and even after the engine is straight the flexplate wont spin. I tried turning at the pulley with no luck... i twisted the crank bolt and that just came loose... should i try to pull the pulley? not sure how to get it bolted up....well i got one bolted but thats was it with out it spinning..
PS
HAPPY 4th of JUly
A. weld it back together with some with about an inch missing
B. use a steel braid fuel line and replace it?
also
tq conveter question
so i got my arp bolts in and was gonna bolt up the Tq converter and even after the engine is straight the flexplate wont spin. I tried turning at the pulley with no luck... i twisted the crank bolt and that just came loose... should i try to pull the pulley? not sure how to get it bolted up....well i got one bolted but thats was it with out it spinning..
PS
HAPPY 4th of JUly
I would take all of the spark plugs out and try turning the crank bolt clockwise to make sure everything is turning freely.
Rick B.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,655
Likes: 19