fuel pump ?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Well, if that happened, it would take about 2 seconds for the pump to shoot what's in the carb back to the fuel tank. As it sits on the vehicle, the larger [rear] line is the inlet line from the tank; the smaller [front] line is the return line back to the fuel tank (if your car has that pump); and the line from the brass fitting goes to the carb.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 518
Likes: 12
From: Panhandle
Fuel Frame to Fuel Pump Hose Change
When I recently pulled the engine from my Vette, I had to separate the frame fuel hoses to the fuel pump. I had about 1/2 tank of gas.
Since you are asking the question, I'm assuming you wanted the longer version. Likewise, I encourage other members to critique my comments.
Below is Not an endorsement, nor a recommendation on how to do the task. It is just a recap of how I accomplished the task. Working with gasoline is a dangerous task and can cause serious injury/loss of life and damage to property.
WARNING: Before I started! Safety wise, I did an assessment of my area to ensure there were no sources of ignition. Gas vapors are flammable. I had a fire extinguisher handy and also opened the doors and windows to ensure ventilation. If my garage had a gas water heater with a live gas pilot, I would have shut it down and made sure the pilot was out. I also looked for and eliminated All open flames and sources of ignition; no trouble light under the car where the fuel can spill on. Car battery disconnected. I even disconnect my air compressor to ensure a spark is not made when fuel vapors are present. Knowing static electricity can ignite gasoline, I goggled "static electricity hazards" and abided by the precautions. Also had my wife with me just in case I ran into a problem, dropped something and as I kept my finger on the open fuel line, she could pass me whatever I needed. I used Nitril gloves to protect my hands. Best Bet, If I were just changing the fuel lines, I would do the task in the driveway away from the house/garage.
1. I removed the clamp from the hose and lightly pried the hose end to ensure it is not stuck/frozen to the fuel line. If stuck, I use a pair of pliers and give a twist. To free some stubborn hoses, I pry up a corner of the hose and shoot some WD-40 and them twist to free them. If really stuck, I may need to do this a few times. Also an alternative to the pry and twist method, in the past, I have sliced the end of the hose and peeled the stuck hose off.
2. I prepared in advance what I was going to plug the frame fuel line once I was ready to remove the hose. Also, I placed a drip pan under the fuel pump to catch the fuel that will be leaking out. I chose to use vacuum plug ends. To be extra safe, I could even put a clamp on the vacuum plug. I made certain, I had the correct size. I even have a back-up vacuum plug or fuel hose with a bolt in it ready in case I dropped one.
3. Then I just removed the hose and plugged it. It is not under pressure. Making sure it is not leaking.
4. Once the fuel feed line is caped, I replaced the two hoses. Residual fuel from the fuel pump and my in-line fuel filter drained into the drip pan. Yes, I had the car on a jacks and tire removed for good access.
5. I placed the fuel in the drip pan into a gas container and took to my hazardous waste recycling center.
Since you are asking the question, I'm assuming you wanted the longer version. Likewise, I encourage other members to critique my comments.
Below is Not an endorsement, nor a recommendation on how to do the task. It is just a recap of how I accomplished the task. Working with gasoline is a dangerous task and can cause serious injury/loss of life and damage to property.
WARNING: Before I started! Safety wise, I did an assessment of my area to ensure there were no sources of ignition. Gas vapors are flammable. I had a fire extinguisher handy and also opened the doors and windows to ensure ventilation. If my garage had a gas water heater with a live gas pilot, I would have shut it down and made sure the pilot was out. I also looked for and eliminated All open flames and sources of ignition; no trouble light under the car where the fuel can spill on. Car battery disconnected. I even disconnect my air compressor to ensure a spark is not made when fuel vapors are present. Knowing static electricity can ignite gasoline, I goggled "static electricity hazards" and abided by the precautions. Also had my wife with me just in case I ran into a problem, dropped something and as I kept my finger on the open fuel line, she could pass me whatever I needed. I used Nitril gloves to protect my hands. Best Bet, If I were just changing the fuel lines, I would do the task in the driveway away from the house/garage.
1. I removed the clamp from the hose and lightly pried the hose end to ensure it is not stuck/frozen to the fuel line. If stuck, I use a pair of pliers and give a twist. To free some stubborn hoses, I pry up a corner of the hose and shoot some WD-40 and them twist to free them. If really stuck, I may need to do this a few times. Also an alternative to the pry and twist method, in the past, I have sliced the end of the hose and peeled the stuck hose off.
2. I prepared in advance what I was going to plug the frame fuel line once I was ready to remove the hose. Also, I placed a drip pan under the fuel pump to catch the fuel that will be leaking out. I chose to use vacuum plug ends. To be extra safe, I could even put a clamp on the vacuum plug. I made certain, I had the correct size. I even have a back-up vacuum plug or fuel hose with a bolt in it ready in case I dropped one.
3. Then I just removed the hose and plugged it. It is not under pressure. Making sure it is not leaking.
4. Once the fuel feed line is caped, I replaced the two hoses. Residual fuel from the fuel pump and my in-line fuel filter drained into the drip pan. Yes, I had the car on a jacks and tire removed for good access.
5. I placed the fuel in the drip pan into a gas container and took to my hazardous waste recycling center.
