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My interior is completely gutted now and I am have a few questions before putting back together.
1. There is a lot of glue and insulation fibers still stuck to the interior surfaces. I have used a nylon rotary drill brush on it; but not very clean yet. Any tips or ideas to get it clean; or should I just paint over and move since it will get covered up anyway?
2. I am going to install Dynamat or Hushmat insulation to help control the heat. Should I also install the factory Rubberized insulation on top of the Dyna/Hush mat; or not?
FWI: Not concerned about NCRS correct. Just want it to look good and feel cool.
Hi 2,
I used both 3M Automotive Adhesive Remover and lacquer thinner to get the residue off the fiberglass. I think it's good to start with a clean surface.
Regards,
Alan
Dynamat and Hushmat are sound deadeners...not heat inulators. Both will delay the time it takes for heat to enter the interior; but, once it does, it will come in at the same rate as it did without that stuff. If you want noise reduction, use either of those products. If you want heat insulation...use insulation. You can use both if you need.
Heat insulation will reduce noise level somewhat, but do a good job of rejecting heat. Sound deadener will do well at reducing noise, but a weak job of rejecting heat. Use the right "tool" for the right job.
If the "junk" at Lowe's is 'Reflectix', I beg to differ. I installed Reflectix when I lived in Phoenix...you know, that place that sees 110F days about 30% of the entire year . Before I installed it, the A/C could be on full blast and you didn't even know it was on. Afterwards, well I could drive in comfort except when it got over 115F---then I just stayed inside.
If the "junk" at Lowe's is 'Reflectix', I beg to differ. I installed Reflectix when I lived in Phoenix...you know, that place that sees 110F days about 30% of the entire year . Before I installed it, the A/C could be on full blast and you didn't even know it was on. Afterwards, well I could drive in comfort except when it got over 115F---then I just stayed inside.
I used the "junk" from Lowes and it has been great. Got 2 1/2 inch chambered pipes under metal floors and I can run 100 plus miles and my floors are NOT hot. Covered floor and tunnel with it--worked fine. Will use it again!
killer454 "looked at it", but has probably never tried it nor knows anyone who has. For the money, it is the best insulation available. It's easy to cut (large scissors), tape pieces together with [aluminum] foil tape (find in the same area as the insulation), and just use a spritz of 3M spray adhesive (also in the insulation section) to tack the pieces down. You can also use the 3M stuff to stick carpeting to the vertical sections of the interior [firewall, storage area) if you don't replace the rubber carpet plugs.
P.S. Don't install the Reflectix in the storage compartment. It would be difficult to get it and carpet under the door trims....and there isn't really any heat source close enough to justify doing so. Insulation in the passenger area will work just fine. But you do need to cover the tranny tunnel completely: under the radio, under the heat/vent controls, all the way back to, and including, the vertical bulkhead.
I put reflectix in my '76, it works great for the heat. Can I put dynamat over the reflectix to control noise? The car is still noisy with the factory insulated carpet.
I used this stuff from PEP boys they had it as an in stock item down hear in GA.........I just got back from a 30mile run at hwy speeds with some stop and go traffic close to my home. I noticed the shifter console and carpet was just a little over luke warm...slightly over body temp.
It was the best addition to the interior rebuild I could have done. It's 90 and humid hear today and the A/C was putting out 59 degrees...I felt vary cool in the old 71BB today. The new radiator has kept the engine at 190 on the road, and she never goes above 210 in stop and go.........she has the stock fan and clutch.
I glued it foil side down......thats what I thought would work better, sure seem to work good. It molded and glued vary easy. Good luck.
I put reflectix in my '76, it works great for the heat. Can I put dynamat over the reflectix to control noise? The car is still noisy with the factory insulated carpet.
I would put the dynamat down on the fiberglass and then the reflectix over that.
Quick question: Rather than use a razor to cut an X, is there a tool that will cut round holes in the insulation for bolts and the Rubber Carpet Plugs?
I used a soldering iron....... it burnt perfect holes in the material I used....it melted the fibers making a smooth round hole. I just felt for the holes market them with a marker and used the iron to make perfect round holes. Hear is a pick of my seat hole the small tip went down the threads and the large iron behind the tip made the almost perfect hole size.
I don't think this would work with some of the stuff thats made like bubble rap ect.
i used the hushmat ultra and megabond. it is expensive but goes down much easier than dynomat. you have to use both vibration and heat insulation as stated above. the vibration goes down first then the insulation. i have a seperate thread going now if you want to see some pics of my install. don't forget to install your radio cables and speakers while you have the carpet out. the reflective material from lowes works good at heat, i have it in my 67 camaro. it does very little for noise and vibrations.
Excelent advice here. I might have forgotten to take into account any additional wiring before installing the insulation.
The one thing that confuses me is the order of install (Hushmat/Reflex). I would have installed the Reflex first and then the Hushmat. Seems to me you would want your best defense first; and I am more concerned about heat reduction. Or does the order even matter?
Wish me luck. Today, I am going to cut a hole in the firewall for the addition of Vintage Air.
Ideally, the hushmat ultra or similar should be installed on the outside of the firewall or floor area. Really only feasible with a body off. Any of those foil faced insulations etc work best when the foil is directly exposed to the heat source. Inside is the next best choice.
If you want the same stuff but cheaper, go to a wholesale roofing supplier.
The Lowes stuff works well, used it myself, but you feet may pop the bubbles.
Almost all insulations also act as a sound deadener. I really wouldn't worry about both, aim for the biggest problem, heat.
hushmat says vibration material goes down first. it also acts as a heat barrier. hushmat says vibration down first then megabond hear and sound deadner on top. this stuff is expensive so do it the right way first