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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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Default Battery Cable

Hello, what is the gauge of wire for the positive battery cable? Also is it 92" long? Stock 79, 350, thanks Ed
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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Zero but I don't know the length.
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 06:36 PM
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92" is correct.
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Old Jul 1, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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Both the positive and negative battery cables are 2 AWG wires in early '70s C3s. With the longer cable run in later year cars, their cable may be '0' AWG wire.

P.S. Welding cable is more flexible and easier to work with, but may be more money.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Both the positive and negative battery cables are 2 AWG wires in early '70s C3s. With the longer cable run in later year cars, their cable may be '0' AWG wire.

P.S. Welding cable is more flexible and easier to work with, but may be more money.
Didn't know about welding wire but will it have different gage strands in the '0' AWG than a battery cable itself? Now about the ends to attach them. Thanks for all replies Ed
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:36 AM
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Welding cable has finer wires inside which makes it more flexible. A local surplus store ( Mendalson's) used to have 0 welding cable by the pound and it was dirt cheap and I bought a bunch of it over the years,wish I would have stocked up.
The ends you can buy many places but the battery end I doubt you will be able to reproduce the factory molded end.
The only thing I don't like about welding cable is the increase in flexibility allows the cable to sag in the tunnel so you might have to add retainers so the cable doesnt rub the driveshaft.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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If you go to a heavy truck new dealer (Peterbilt, Kenworth, Freightliner, Mack, etc) they can get made to length cables with molded ends. Maybe NAPA too. Takes a week or so. I got a 00 cable for mine from Peterbilt. It is no fun to route with the transmission in.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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yea thanks, tried napa and the longest was 65" 4 gage
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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Don't remove the old cable by itself. Get a good crimp-type butt connector and connect the new one to the old one. Then pull the new one through when you remove the old.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Don't remove the old cable by itself. Get a good crimp-type butt connector and connect the new one to the old one. Then pull the new one through when you remove the old.

thanks ED
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Don't remove the old cable by itself. Get a good crimp-type butt connector and connect the new one to the old one. Then pull the new one through when you remove the old.
Originally Posted by ED79
thanks ED
To be honest I haven't replaced a 79 cable but if it is anything like the earlier years there are clamps that must be removed to get the cable out. I doubt the cable will just slide through. Its not a fun job. Let us know.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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Yes Sir: I found my cable was so tight, that I had to remove the bolts, in order to remove the straps. It was a pain, even with the trans. out. I bought the new cable at a G.M. dealer. Have a great one. Gene
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Don't remove the old cable by itself. Get a good crimp-type butt connector and connect the new one to the old one. Then pull the new one through when you remove the old.
I soldered mine together with a propane torch, wrapped it with tape and pulled it through.
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by bluthundr
I soldered mine together with a propane torch, wrapped it with tape and pulled it through.
There's another great idea, thanks Ed
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