Welcome to the Forum. I know exactly where Sicklerville is, I travel Rt 536 through there occationally. I'm in Shamong (Medford/Tabernacle area).

I've been playing with these things for 35+ years, so if I can help you out any, PM me and I'll give you my number

 

I don't think it is ever a good idea to have a rubber fuel line on top of the engine. You gotta do something about that fuel filter setup.

 

Ok, everyone ignored my post. It wll be a treat to tune without idle mixture screws.

 

The guy I bought it from said the screw driver was for adjusting something in the carb. I've never owned a carb'd car and have absolutely no experience or knowledge about how to tune or work on them.

 

the 75 carb is a little bit of an oddball anyway.
the mixture screw is way back in there, not like your 74 carb.
Can't tell if the screw is there or not by the pic.

From all the hammer marks on the inlet housing, looks like they had needle and seat problems at one time.

 

Going in for the cap, plugs and wires. Anything i should keep an out for? I have my haynes manual, camera and masking tape for documenting the wire order.

 

Ok everything is done, i skipped changing the plugs because they looked alright and i started running low on time. Distributor cap and ignition coil were pretty straight forward. Got the wires ran and the car wont start. It trys to turn over but just clunks out. I'm pretty sure i got the firing order wrong. I followed what haynes said. See pics below:
what haynes says -
drivers side -
passenger side -

Started at the front most spark plugs and worked my way back on both sides.

 

Good try, but here is the position on the cap, make sure the rotor is pointing at #1 at tdc.

 

Went and re did the distributor ends following the number sequence at the top of the first photo and going clockwise. Was able to get it started but since and shakes even worse then before i did anything

drivers side -
passenger side -

 

Yeah... that is what i changed it to and took photos of in the above post. thanks though.

 

I'm sure at this point you are just overwhelmed by the awesome brute power of a 75 corvette.. Don't get me wrong, I love mine.. but being beat by an old v6 honda accord was a bummer.. But this can easily be solved by a liberal application of money.

As for the heat issue.. some simple things to check for..
1. Heat shield in the transmission tunnel (look for 1/2 thick tinfoil looking covering inside the transmission tunnel around the trans.. after 35 years it could have fallen apart/ removed etc.
2. Look for cracks in the firewall fiberglass.. (mine had a few cracks in various places, plus gaps where the firewall meets other parts of the body.. remember 75' was not the golden age of quality work for GM )
3. Check if heat is coming from the heater vents (with the heat off).. My heater / ac air control door mechanisms were broken and it was stuck on 50/50 heat/ac.. Early 75 had a heater coolant shutoff valve, late 75 (mine ) did not.. I put a dual valve (bypasses both heater coolant lines) from a ford Explorer on mine to solve this.. while keeping the heater functional. To fix the control door mechanism issue.. is much more work.

.. While I had mine apart, I applied Dynamat extreme everywhere.. but these are things to check without tearing it apart.

As a side note.. early 75 had a seatbelt interlock mechanism, late 75 did away with it. This is important to know if you dive into replacing/working with wiring as it effects the under hood, dash and rear harnesses.

-Frank

 

Now check and adjust the ignition timing. You'll need a timing light.

 

As you learned the hard way, the firing order is 18436572.
Your timing is now off so you need to set it correctly. It sounds like the timing is retarded (turned too far back).
Look at the front of the motor, the lowest pulley is bolted to a large iron disc called a dampner, or harmonic balancer. Somewhere on the outside edge there will be a groove cut into it, that is the timing mark. Behind the balancer is a oval metal pan that is bolted vertically to the front of the motor, this is the timing chain cover. This cover will have a small metal tab sticking out on the driver's side of the engine. The tab will sort of have "teeth".
You want to get a 5/8 socket on the front of the balancer and hand turn the motor until you see that line. Once you see it, line it up with the timing tab at around top dead center (TDC). Pull the dist cap and make sure that the rotor is pointing towards #1. If it is WAY off, (like 180 degrees off)you are not on compression and need to hand turn the motor another revolution. To adjust the distributor, go to the passenger side of the motor and look down where it meets the intake manifold. You'll see a Y-shaped fork with a bolt in it. Loosen the bolt under the dist that holds a Y-shaped fork over the dist collar. Don't remove it, just loosen it enough to turn the distributor. That should get it close enough to start and run correctly. The rotor is not going to move with the engine off, its held tight by a gear on the camshaft so what you are actually doing is rotating the distributor body around the fixed rotor. With the cap off and dist loosened, you'll see what I mean.
If it looks like you have to turn the dist too much to get it to line up, you may have to move all the wires over one spot.

This is a little fancier, but you can see the TDC mark on the balancer and the timing tab.



Once it fires up and runs, borrow a timing light and set the timing at around 8-10* before top dead center. (BDTC)
The timing tab will have the increments marked.

 

You guys are my heroes, really wish I wasnt stuck at the office so I could do this right now.

 

Mines from December 1974, number 6075 abouts i think.

 

Don't worry about it. If you turn the key and the starter spins then you don't have the interlock mess.

 

Do you have access to a timing light?
If you do, hook up the black alligator grip to a good ground and the red to the back of the alternator stud with the red wire going to it,
Number 1 in this pic.


Make sure you get a rag and clean off the timing tab so you can read it.

Clamp the probe over the #1 plug wire.
Make sure the dist is loose, but not too loose, you don't want the housing to spin around on its own. You want it to be tight enough that it won't flop around but loose enough that you can move it by hand. Pull the the vacuum hose off the advance pot on the distributor and plug the hose with something like a golf tee.
With the car running and the trigger on the light pulled, you should get a strobe light effect. Point the light at that timing mark and you'll see the timing mark magically appear, its actually pretty cool how it works. Slowly rotating the distributor will move the timing mark.

Some points of Caution-
The timing light can almost be a bit mesmerising and make you forget that the engine is spinning. I have seen a lot of people accidentally bounce their light off the alternator, fan, or spinning belts so be careful.
The distributor shouldn't leak any voltage, but it can, and an HEI can cause a painful shock so wear gloves and try to move the distributor by that vacuum advance pot if possible.

 

Well my timing tab and balancer have been painted orange. I will get a closer look and pic tomorrow.

 

Definitely something missing, I'll check my spare 75 carb but I think you're right about a vacuum port. That will cause the car to run awful.

 

Looks like you are missing some Choke and choke pull off parts.