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I just had my original windshield replaced by the insurance company due to a large rock chip. The original had a nice tight fit against the trim on both sides and top. The new one doesn't. The driver's side is tight at the bottom, and gets a gap as it goes toward the top. The top trim can be pushed down about 1/8" before it touches the glass. The passenger side is tight to the trim at the bottom, but going up it starts to have about a 1/4" gap to the glass. I had the glass installer back out and he just wanted to fill the gaps with more black glue. What should I do? Can it be that the non- GM replacement is not sized right, or it was pushed down too tight into the glue? It had some gasket tape on the ooriginal. I told him to stop and talk to his boss to see what could be done. He said he could take it out and try resetting it, but couldn't guarantee it would be any better. He doesn't think it was a tight fit on the old glass, but I know it was because I had a tough time masking under the trim to paint it. Any help would be appreciated. Tom
I had to replace my windshield for my 1976 and the correct factory adhesive is rope type not a tube of glue. The rope is put down with the molding clips and then the windshield is set in place over this and then the molding is snapped on and left to sit overnight. During this time the rope adhesive expands and pushes the recessed windshield up to meet the stainless steel molding with a nice tight fit. If your installer didn't know this and used a tube of the black gooey adhesive, he shouldn't be installing C3 windshields. Sorry for you frustrations...
Hi J,
Good information.
I thought St.Louis continued using the pump-able Thiokol sealer that was used at least through the 72 model year.
Also, since the rope type sealer you describe is in an open roll what causes it to expand once it's unrolled and installed on the windshield frame?
Regards,
Alan
I have never understood why it matters how old a thread is....if the information is useful then it doesn't become irrelevant....unless it has something to do with things that change. C3 Corvettes are what they are,....not changing.
I have never understood why it matters how old a thread is....if the information is useful then it doesn't become irrelevant....unless it has something to do with things that change. C3 Corvettes are what they are,....not changing.
I have never understood why it matters how old a thread is....if the information is useful then it doesn't become irrelevant....unless it has something to do with things that change. C3 Corvettes are what they are,....not changing.
Agree 100%!
You're damned if you do, and damned if you don't. -You ask a question that's already been answered and you get told to use the search feature; you add a question to an old thread and people comment on how old the original post was....?!?
How do the forum ****'s not see the contradiction there?
I have never understood why it matters how old a thread is....if the information is useful then it doesn't become irrelevant....unless it has something to do with things that change. C3 Corvettes are what they are,....not changing.
For reasons that escape me the "forum" would rather a person start a new thread and fragment tech than revive old threads, I do not really know how old "too" old is, but seems if it is too old a moderator will kindly let you know....
Anyway, on the windshield subject I busted my 69 glass actually a zombie hand did it and I was all stressed out the glass much cost a hell of a lot as I would see so many threads about it and the fact that it took 4 tries to get my 86's windshield not to leak, state farm tried to blame me, I laughed and said you send me to the glass shops, my fault they cant do the job?
but I called safelite on my 69 and they quoted under 400.00 installed, so not big deal but they went on to tell me that they had one "special" worker who does the "old" stuff and knows how to do it correctly, I will surely ask about it and have pictures before I pull the glass to fix my rust in the lower pillar, I have seen ones not set in right they look bad....
Hi J,
Good information.
I thought St.Louis continued using the pump-able Thiokol sealer that was used at least through the 72 model year.
Also, since the rope type sealer you describe is in an open roll what causes it to expand once it's unrolled and installed on the windshield frame?
Regards,
Alan
My installer explained that it is sealed and then sets up when exposed. Like epoxy when mixed. But, I think now I will go on a Google journey to verify what he told me.
I knew it was six years old, but I have had members join in on old threads before and the convo continues and I did learn a few things or laugh at a few comments. Anyway, I guess I will leave the forum for shame. Sad day.
I guess the mods removed all the flaming comments, who cares. It's still an important subject. My windsheild had HUGE gaps that let the wind and rain in when I got it. I had the guy who does them for our shop do mine and it came out perfect. as a result i also repalced the dash.........
I just didn't know if you realized it or not. Next thing I know I'm being hammered. No harm was intended.
I thought you were pointing out how stupid I am... which is just regular stupid. But, we're cool; thanks for clearing that up. I made the mistake once of cracking on the lousy C3 makers and some of the bad engineering in the 70s... you notice I said "once". Boy, talk about getting hammered. I learned just how sensitive the Corvette population is!!! Hell, I own a C3. Later Street Rat.
The original glass is around .270" in thickness, some of the cheaper replacements are much thinner.
Originally they were installed with the ribbon sealer as were almost all other cars of that era.
With newer bodies the windshield has become an integral part of the structure of the body and a little better adhesion was required. It also comes into play with the operation of an airbag and windshield blowout during a crash.
If they are willing, I would use the ribbon sealer, some companies won't use it for liability concerns.
If they insist on using it, in order to get the right height without making a total mess, is to lay a bead of urethane on , let it set up for a day and then urethane the glass in.
Yup I just had the glass set in my 68 Z28 Camaro. I had the ribbon there for the guy to use, and he said nope, watch this. His tip had a guide that kept the urethane right at the edge, and consistent thickness. He then did two other late model windshields that I had there before he set the Camaro glass, and it turned out beautifully.
As an FYI..If you are expecting a date coded correct windshield from Pilkington OR Auto City Classics, BE WARNED!! You pay double to have the correct Libby logo and date code applied to the glass. AND, it is appied on the outside of the glass as they can not apply on the inside due to the curvature of the glass. As a result the eitching will look negative image from the outside. If your car will be judged for NCRS, they WILL give you penalty points for it equal to not having the etching at all..Auto City makes no DISCLAIMER about this on their website and the will NOT give you any adjustment for it as they claim ,"98% of their CUSTOMER sales are not judged by NCRS