Gale Banks 80'

Ok so the Seal was failing on my Windshield and I very carefully cut the seal and had the Glass moving and...Snap I broke it. There was a little delamination starting anyway. So I have no need to retore this Car Stock so a correct date coded reproduction has no merrit here. But I don't want any Chinese Copy either. I had Safelite all lined up today to install there North Carolina USA made Glass when there installer called to say they didn't have a mobile that could do a Vette.( much better than sending out somebody to learn how to do it!) A local Shop now has a Wilken? Glass comeing for me that He sez is what LOF turned into. He basicly said that there isn't a great enough market for our cars to get the Importers interested and that most of the Glass that is avalable is domestic. I'm going to pay him time and materials to do the install at my Garage. What are You guys useing?

Peterbuilt

Pilkington is the brand I used.

ptroxx

same here...I had a corvette shop do it the first time and they couldnt get it to seat right..... so i took it to a good local glass shop well 315.00 installed at my local glass shop..
and they cracked 2 getting it in.... still 315.00

speedreed8

here is another option also, i've used before.
http://www.autocityclassic.com/index...d=56&Itemid=41

Alan 71

Hi gb,
I think it's important that the glass be put in dry first so the amount of space it needs to sit from the windowshield frame can be determined in order for the trim to fit when it goes back on.
Many installers want to guess because it's easier and it's not their car!
Remember VERY few of the windshields they're replacing all day long have any trim at all.
Regards,
Alan

curtis75

Does anyone offer a windshield with the antenna in it?

Roco71

A couple of years ago I bought a new one off of eBay for $119 the only thing was I had to pick it up myself. Before bidding I had to contact the seller and she gave me a choice of location close to me. After choosing a location I took my receipt to the warehouse and they loaded a brand new PPG windshield into my car. I do not see the seller listings anymore on the eBay
A year later I installed it myself. It took two dry test runs to get it right. As far as hardest stuff I have had to do on my 71 this does not even make the list.

BBCorv70

That would be Pilkington, they bought LOF glass sometime in the 80's (from what I recall).

I've used Pilkington as well as a few others on this forum.

You can buy with or without the date code, an extra charge if you want it, possibly a delay as well.

I had no problems with fit. The local shop recommended them, said they have had problems with the fit from others...

Gale Banks 80'

So What Type of Seal are You guys useing? I have the 3M 3/8" Butyl one that I got from one of the Vendors. However the Local Glass shop sez that no body dose it that way anymore. As far as Test fitting it You must be useing Rubber Shims to determine the Thickness of the Seal. The local Shop is going to install it at my House so they will be doing it what ever way we think is best. What Seal Are You Guys useing.?

vette427-sbc

I just had one of the big chains do mine... got a PGW (Pittsburgh Glass Works) windshield. They used what ever modern sealant/glue they use on the new cars. I took out my old glass, all the old sealant, wipers, and trim. All they had to do was lay in the new glass. No disposal fees or extra labor taking it apart. $210

mikep3

I went to a local auto glass shop here in Syracuse, $260 with tax and tip. I do all the work on my car, but the windshield was not for me.

Gale Banks 80'

Yesterday we installed my new Windshield. Its a Pilkington. The peel off decal that was on it said Pilkington made in Mexico. So much for LOF, or should we say Adios. We did the install in my Shop and when the Installer showed up He wanted to not do a dry run saying that removeing the molding might scratch the new glass. Well since I just powdercoated the Moldings and didn't like the idea of Scratching them so we just went for it. Didn't use the Bytal Tape I had we used a modern Urathane sealer that the Glass Shop uses everyday. All went well we pushed and shoved the Moldings around and got things lined up as best we could. The Moldings are flush with the Glass at the bottom Corners and across the top. However there is about a 1/4" gap at both top corners. Its almost as if the Glass is curved a bit to much here. My Moldings have never fit very well on this Car and I'd say that its as good as its ever been. The Black area is larger around the perimiter than my previous Glass to the point where You can see a bit of it from the inside. There is no cut out for the Serial Number you need to lean over a bit to see it. Am I happy with it? Yes it will work on my Pro Tour Style late C3 just fine. Would I use it on my Early C3 Crome Bumper Restoration? Not a Chance.

Alan 71

Hi GB,
I think you comments are interesting in that they illustrate that what is a very good job on one car, might not be on another.
It all depends on what your expectations and goals for the car are.
Thanks for the up-date!
Regards,
Alan

I remember reading some other reports from people saying that it appears the 'arc' in their new glass across it's top doesn't match the 'arc' in the windshield frame and trim... leading to the gap in the corners as you saw.

ptroxx

I just had a new windshield installed in my 77 and they used a later model with the black edges which is the same size. and like i said a few post back the first shop did the job, and it was terrible. was gaps all over the top are. from the center to the corners..
Well I also noticed that I Was getting air from the bottom of the windshield..
The first place didnt seal it good enough and wind was getting in all over the bottom...

so i took it to a glass shop a lot of classics go to and they said the glas was sitting 3/4 in to low in the frame thats why there was such a gap up top and the moldings wouldnt fit right...
So after 2 windshields and tweeking the moldning to get it right they did a great job with no gaps at all.. it fits reall nice all around.. and i also powdercoated the moldings .. looks awesome.......

I think if they just dont seat that window right it wont sit right..

Gale Banks 80'

I guess I need to re open this old thread. Installing my Drivers Seat and Door Panel today I noticed my Windsheild has started to Crack. The Car never even made it out of my Shop or moved its been under a Car cover the last two months. Most fitting the Crack is running right threw the Pilkington name. I think this time I will use a Windsheild made in America.

zwede

I don't think it's the glass, it was the install. Our cars flex a lot, the glass can crack if it is rigid in the frame. Your ill fitting moldings makes me believe the bead was too thin. The glass should be a good 1/4"-3/8" from the frame. If they used a thin bead of polyurethane the moldings won't fit and the glass can crack when jacking the car up.

Gale Banks 80'

I thought of that as well. I can blame Pilkington or the Install or Obama but we will never know why it Cracked. I was there when the adhesive was layed in the birdcage and it was a thick bead. The area where the Crack is is up close to the Trim so it couldn't be much thicker. The car has been sitting on my 4 post lift and has never had a Jack near it. When I cut this one out I will have a look at how thick or thin the seal is where the Crack is starting but that won't happen till fall.

pws69

I agree with Zwede.

I did this with a friend a few years ago and it has been trouble free. NO gaps between trim and windshield anywhere.
.
http://www.speakeasy.org/~pws/Corvette.htm
.

Alan 71

Hi GB,
SORRY!!!!
Is there ANY chance that a screw from the A-pillar ss trim, or weather strip retainer, was a bit too long because they were mixed up?.
A screw that's even a little long CAN touch the edge of the glass, and even that can start a crack.
???
Regards,
Alan

noonie

That what does it. If you look closely where the crack started, you may find something to close to the edge, it can even be the trim being too tight beside the clips.
Having the bead thicker, moves the edge further away from everything.
I've had good luck with using the butyl bead first and applying the urethane glue on top of it.

A very soft and flexible windshield frame can also promote cracks.