Qjet reinstall
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,262
Likes: 283
From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
I'd say my personal torque value is firm/snug. Honestly, I don't believe it's all that critical. Considering the material the carb is made of I don't think you'd want to get them too tight. There's no need to break out the 1/2" drive sockets when a 1/4" or a 3/8" drive will do just fine. Just snug'em up and they'll be fine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,262
Likes: 283
From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
Remember to get your metal fuel line started before you start installing the mounting bolts. Also, tighten the bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern. I don't know your experience level so I thought I'd just pass this on.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,287
Likes: 4,376
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi BB,
I found this in the 71 AIM.
"Torque left/front and right/rear to 24-48 in.lbs., then right/front and left/rear to 24-48 in.lbs. THEN go through the same sequence at 120-168 in.lbs torque.
I'm not sure how in.lbs. translates to ft.lbs.? Does it end up at 7T1's numbers?
Regards,
Alan
I found this in the 71 AIM.
"Torque left/front and right/rear to 24-48 in.lbs., then right/front and left/rear to 24-48 in.lbs. THEN go through the same sequence at 120-168 in.lbs torque.
I'm not sure how in.lbs. translates to ft.lbs.? Does it end up at 7T1's numbers?
Regards,
Alan
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
120-168 in-lbs is equivalent to 10-13 ft-lbs. Since you change the scale from inches to feet, it is reduced by a factor of 12.
My "8-10 ft-lbs" was from memory. Alan's info was directly from the AIM, and it also includes specifics about 'how' to torque those bolts. Use Alan's data.
My "8-10 ft-lbs" was from memory. Alan's info was directly from the AIM, and it also includes specifics about 'how' to torque those bolts. Use Alan's data.
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 10,628
Likes: 132
From: Duvall, WA
I know Cliff of Cliff's QJets sometimes just sets the carb on the intake (over studs) without using nuts and tests them that way. The vacuum is enough to hold the carb on when the car isn't moving, so you want minimal torque.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Hi BB,
I found this in the 71 AIM.
"Torque left/front and right/rear to 24-48 in.lbs., then right/front and left/rear to 24-48 in.lbs. THEN go through the same sequence at 120-168 in.lbs torque.
I'm not sure how in.lbs. translates to ft.lbs.? Does it end up at 7T1's numbers?
Regards,
Alan
I found this in the 71 AIM.
"Torque left/front and right/rear to 24-48 in.lbs., then right/front and left/rear to 24-48 in.lbs. THEN go through the same sequence at 120-168 in.lbs torque.
I'm not sure how in.lbs. translates to ft.lbs.? Does it end up at 7T1's numbers?
Regards,
Alan
Thanks. I may need to purchase a torque wrench which reads inch pounds. I could probably go by feel but over the years I've been paying closer attention to torque values specified to remove any doubt.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,380
Likes: 6,392
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Here's a safe way to do it without risking any damage to the carb or procuring an in/lb torque wrench. Keep in mind that very little torque is needed to secure the carb:
Use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a deep 1/2" socket. Grab the ratchet by its head, wrapping your hand around the head of the ratchet only - don't grip the handle. Snug the bolts down with the torque you can get just holding onto the ratchet head. This will be just enough to slightly compress the base gasket, but will not distort the carb castings in any way.
I will often test my rebuilt carbs the same way Cliff does: I just drop them onto the intake on studs and let the carb sit loose: Engine vacuum will pull the carb down and seal it. If it doesn't, it identifies a warped carb baseplate, and I use this as a troubleshooting method.
Lars\
Use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a deep 1/2" socket. Grab the ratchet by its head, wrapping your hand around the head of the ratchet only - don't grip the handle. Snug the bolts down with the torque you can get just holding onto the ratchet head. This will be just enough to slightly compress the base gasket, but will not distort the carb castings in any way.
I will often test my rebuilt carbs the same way Cliff does: I just drop them onto the intake on studs and let the carb sit loose: Engine vacuum will pull the carb down and seal it. If it doesn't, it identifies a warped carb baseplate, and I use this as a troubleshooting method.
Lars\
