Help.... My 81 c3 power assysted steering is junk . I have replaced everything from the valve to the cylender to the pump with new or rebuilt parts and still do not have power steering . I'm not kidding NO POWER AT ALL. nothing. I need help but I am fed up with spending and spending and getting no where.. What I want is a rear steer power steering box that will bolt into the c3 chassis that is modern. I think somewhere there is a power steering box that will work . I do not want power rack and pinnion that is offered in aftermarket kits .Just want a real power steering box. I know someone out there has done this swap and I need to know how they did it HELP!!!!!!! Johnrodz

 

I think you're looking for the Borgeson conversion. It replaces your current gearbox with a GM Delphi 600 integral power steering unit. Corvette Fever has an article describing it:

http://blogs.corvettefever.com/64598...ion/index.html

The Borgeson kit comes with everything you need for the conversion:

http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/produc...&cat=97&page=1

 

I just fitted one to my '74 last week and it is now a joy to drive.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn

 

thats great it is my hope to find one from salvage that reduces cost .Any idea what the steering box came from.I'm just hoping to save some money!!!!Any alternitives? thanks guys for your speedy responce .... Johnrodz

 

The box itself is used on late model Jeeps - don't know which ones. The problem is the mounting holes don't line up with the Vette frame holes and the splines for the Pittman arm are different. Borgeson machines the case for the correct holes and machines the output shaft to accept the Vette pittman arm. If it were easy and cheap all of us would have done it.



Rick B.

 

Yep, this is another one of the "bolt in" myths. It's a bolt in, with new mounting plates, different hardware, and fabrication work. Something isn't right with your current steering. The power steering on these cars although not like a new car worked pretty well when it was working correctly. And if you've already changed the pump, control valve, cylinder and hoses, your missing something. Have you changed pulleys on the crank or power steering pump? What was the original problem? Did it come on suddenly or did it get gradually worse?

Aside from the parts you've already replaced, there's only the linkage parts and steering box left. All of which you could replace for a lot less than the conversions that have been shown.

 

Thanks again for the responce's I would love to keep the original power assist unit if it would work . U are off on the cost of repairing the original as I have now spent more than the conversion cost on the oem unit . I have tryed everything to fix it .I have posted the problem on this forum back a few months and ended up replacing all the components as I stated without results . I agree that I probably am missing something .I have about wore out the bolts taking it off and on .I'm at the end or my rope hear . It did work a little bit at first but you had to jerk the steering wheel for it to respond and then it would dart to the other lane .I have gone threw the adjustment prosess and that is correct . Could the controle valve have been put together wrong .it is a reman from zip products ,just wouldn't think they could have done it wrong . johnrodz

 

John,

If I remember correctly, some folks suggested the remanufactured control vavle could be defective from Zip. Did you by chance look at that as a possibility? I just had to replace a GMPP Fuel Pump that I got from GM, was a new part and was defective, so it certainly can happen. Also, just for grins, have you bled the system? I know it sounds funny but it's free, and it may help.

Make sure the fluid is full, lift the front end of the car so the wheels are off the ground, run the engine at about 1500 rpm and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a couple times. Don't spend more than a couple seconds at the lock positions. Check the fluid. When the fluid stays at the full level, put the car on the ground and do it again. That's the procedure out of the Service Manual.

Just couple of ideas.

David

 

David , Thank you for your responce .I had a leak in the old oem og unit so i replaced it with remans from zip .I had not driven the car at that time as I just purchased it the past owner told me about the leak befor purchasing the car . I did the repair right off the rollback when it arived. I pushed it in the shop and went to work . priour owner states that it worksd just leaked at the valve .I have talked to zip about the valve and how the power steering didn't work very well . They stated that I shouldn't expect it to work but so well as it was a power assist system and didn't work but so good new . Now I think I need to maby take it back for another unit . thanks Jognrodz

 

You know, I hate when people use the excuse "It didn't work so well new"... compared to what? A 2011 car?!?! This is esspecially bad coming from a supplier. Yeah, you can't sit in the driveway and spin the steering wheel with one finger. The system wasn't designed for that, the car's not a Buick! I heard the same BS about my AC. A shop told me you'll never get it to blow under 65 degrees, it didn't work that great new... What a load. It blows about 50 depending on ambient air temp. Why? Cause I fixed it correctly, after going through the expense of letting a "professional" work on it. I understand not all are bad, I just got a hold of a shop that wasn't as proficient as it probably should have been.

I've heard the best thing to do with the control valve is to either rebuild it yourself or buy new not remanufactured. I wish I could tell you from personnal experience but I can't. There's the same issue going around with carburetors too. Remanufactured Qjets seem to have a pretty bad reputation.

 

Let me clear this up, it sounds like what he carried away from this conversation is not the message I was sending him.

He had never driven a Corvette with Power Assist, they did not have power steering in the sense that other GM cars had.

Now with that cleared I said that he should be able to sit still with his car running and turn the steering from lock to lock with one hand. If he cannot do that then there is something wrong, if he can then it is working correctly.

They do not steer like you are on ice like a caddy with the PS box in it, and that is what it sounded to me like he was looking for. We have had a couple of valves returned for being faulty, mostly leaking. However our reman and new valves are done in the US and we have not had issues except for a very small percentage which is normal.
The biggest issue with a valve is that they are not adjusted correctly. They do come with instructions, but I have a different way of adjusting them.
I lift the car so the front wheels are off the ground, and I remove the front wheels.
Remove the cap on the end of the valve that exposes the adjusting nut.
With the car running turn the wheel from lock to lock, it should not groan or fight you. Make sure you do not stick your hands through the steering wheel, if the adjustment is off the wheel could turn very quickly on it's own. If this happens start making very small adjustments on the nut until the steering wheel will go lock to lock easily without it trying to tug out of your hands.
When that is working, put the wheels back on it and try it again, if it needs some adjusting then give it a little. If it is all ok, then put the car back on the ground and try it again. Once you get all of the steps done it should be moving very easily it may take an hour to fine tune it, but you have to be patient, if you have two people it will go much easier.
There was a rash of bad NEW about a year ago, they had too much torque applied to a retaining nut on the inside that caused the valve to feel very stiff. This would "wear" away but it was not working correctly in the beginning. We replaced the ones we knew about, but it did not affect the reman valves.

I have never had a valve that did not work after the adjustment were made that I have installed myself or in my shops, now I have had new ones leak, but never where they did not operate they way they were supposed to. The new ones that were affected were actually not that bad, but you should not have to "break: them in either.

I also hate it when someone says that is the way they were back then, that is a excuse for not doing the work properly in my book. Like looking at a trunk on a early car and you could stick your hand through the crack, they did not come like that, if they did nobody would have bought a Corvette.
We had a 67 BB 400hp that would freeze you out of the car, so if everything is working correctly, the ac will blow cold. The biggest issues I see is that someone does not replace all the parts that need to be replaced, the inner box seals are all worn out and they are using R134. My 74BB had R134 in it and it blew okay, but not like when it had R12 in it.
Justin
Justin

 

The Corvette did not use the same power assist system that other GM cars used [although other models did use that same system], but that DOES NOT mean that the Corvette power assist was weak, faulty, or prone to failure. I had new C3's, and while its power assist was not as strong at a dead stop as other designed systems, once the car was moving at all it felt the same as new full-sized cars. So, I don't buy ZIP's assessment of the C3 power assist system.

Frankly, I think you got a junk control valve from ZIP. And I have no complaints with ZIP or its service [normally]. But a C3 power assist system with all new components and no actual assist being produced can only be due to a couple of things...and the most likely is a bad control valve.

Now, if ZIP can tell you [with a straight face] that they actually tested the performance of your valve when they receive it from their supplier, I guess you'll have to accept their story. But, I don't believe they do 100% {if any} testing on rebuilt control valves. And I would bet a good amount of money that their supplier doesn't either. Considering how much money you've already spent with them, they should help you out and swap the control valves if you pick up the shipping costs. That's my 2 cents....

 

Frankly, I like the old system better, and no matter what people say, it works just fine. It is designed to be a variable system. It will give maximum assist at rest or low speeds, and minimum at high speeds. It varies the assist with the demand from the steering wheel input.

This guy has something wrong with his install. Either the pump isn't working, the valve is bad, the cylinder is bad, or he has the lines crossed. All of these things are easily checked.

 

put in a Rack and Pinion system by Steeroids or VBP.... this will make your car steering modern.

I put one in this summer... a VERY easy conversion, NO FAB WORK all parts professionally made and fits like a glove, weight reduction, the superior steering of modern R&P,
I would bet you would be very happy... I have been, it is a great improvement, and you get to junk the old antiquated ball and knuckle.

 

So, even though he has all new [or rebuilt] components for his system, he should just scrap it all and buy an entirely new system which will require major installation work? Interesting approach....

 

First of all, it is by no means "major installation work" in fact it is one of the easiest mods I have ever done, took about 4 hrs, and it looks and fits as if GM designed it themselves for our C3's...

Second, I have, as many others here have also, removed old and obsolete parts in leu of more modern and more advanced parts that will in-fact bring our cars up to a higher level of performance.

I understand there are 2 distinct camps, those that like stock and believe that if GM did not put it there it should not be, and the other, which i subscribe to, to put in any mod that will improve performance and or handling.... R&P is a upgrade in handling...

So, yes.... I say junk the obsolete system, never look back, and put in a modern R&P system... I just do not understand why anyone would want to keep an obsolete under performing system when it is so easy to do an upgrade?....to his his own.... jmho. BUT, if I were to stay "stock" i would go with the Borgeson conversion... i have heard great things about them... good luck, and I hope all works out the best for you....
.... paul

 

Did same to 75 best thing I ever did to car. Went through that nut roll with steering boxes. A/D/R I cannot see why everyone hangs on to a stock system or update to a modern 1990 Delph system (WHAT 1990 modern?) Steeroids is way to go anyone want a stock system off a 1975 corvette? With fairly new control unit and cylinder and new hoses. Heck I'll give it to you. I will sell the steering box for $50 though. Just my 2 cents as always. Hope I didn't hurt any steering box peoples feelings if I'm sorry. Thanks

R/S
sgm

 

Go Justin GO I hear you talking about this last Friday when I came by the shop. thanks

R/S
sgm

 

Hey sgm2004, I'll take it !

 

76yellow are you going to drive to NO Virginia to pick it up? A long ways to drive for it.

sgm