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engine stand safe?

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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 11:07 PM
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Default engine stand safe?

Hi guys, I bought a harbor freight stand, I think its sturdy, but I'm worried about theres only 4 bolts holding the eng. to the stand. The top two will be holding most of the weight, the lower two will be the pivot point. I'm worried with all the leverage from the lenth of the eng. on those two top bolts, witch aren't very big, could pull out. What do you think, is this safe?
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by jmp
Hi guys, I bought a harbor freight stand, I think its sturdy, but I'm worried about theres only 4 bolts holding the eng. to the stand. The top two will be holding most of the weight, the lower two will be the pivot point. I'm worried with all the leverage from the lenth of the eng. on those two top bolts, witch aren't very big, could pull out. What do you think, is this safe?
Most only have 4 bolts.
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 11:32 PM
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I have had fully dressed small blocks on engine stands with four bolt. No problem. Bolts never pulled out, I worry about tipping the stand when I push it around, but I never saw that either
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Old Oct 6, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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Thank you, I guess its safe, but just scary looking at it. I've got to get some longer bolts tomorow and try it. Do I need a special grade bolt, like grade 8 or something, thanks again, Joe
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 01:37 AM
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Some say Grade 8 are overkill, but I use nothing but Grade 8 for anything to do with lifting or holding the engine.. As far as I am concerned there in no such thing as overkill when it comes to this.

I would not be at all concerned with the bolts pulling out of the cast iron bellhousing threads..
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 02:11 AM
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What scares me are the carb plate engine lifters - 4 small bolts in aluminum ....

I agree about shaky engine stands and also using the best bolts. I am always extra careful moving it around and cracks in my floor.



Frank
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 02:25 AM
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That is likely the strongest part of the whole deal.I would be far more worried about that chinesium tin folding up at the base,or a caster crumbling away while rolling it.
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 10:25 AM
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Joe, I believe I have the same stand from HF. I had no trouble with mine. Those 4 bolt brackets are adjustable so you can lift the engine and set the brackets to make the engine ballanced on the stand. If done correctly you should be able to rotate the engine without fighting it. Be careful rollong the stand around the garage. Floor cracks are a surprise...
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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If the engine will be sitting on the stand for a while you canuse a 2x4 to support under the water pump or somewhere else at the front of the engine.
I always use Grade 8 bolts just for my own sense of safety.
My buddy has had a fully dressed 500 cadillac engine sitting on the same stand for at least 8 years and it hasn't broke yet. Old steel vs new chinese crap maybe...
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 10:57 AM
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Four bolts likely have a holding power of 20,000-30,000 pounds if they are torqued properly. And that is important...that all bolts are solid and torqued to proper value. Those chinzy Chinese welds made with coathanger wire will break w-a-y before the bolts snap.
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Four bolts likely have a holding power of 20,000-30,000 pounds if they are torqued properly. And that is important...that all bolts are solid and torqued to proper value. Those chinzy Chinese welds made with coathanger wire will break w-a-y before the bolts snap.
I have a fully dressed 305 from and old S10 on a stand with grade 5 bolts and it's been there for about a year.
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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Agree grade 5 or 8 bolts (I use 8's) are a good call, but don't forget to use hardened washers also.
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 08:54 PM
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I would be more concerned about the quality of the welds and the strenght of the steel used in the stand.

Will not matter that the bolts held if the stand colapes and the motor hits the floor.

I recall a post months ago where there were photos of a failed stand that was a Auto Zone product. I suspect HF is not kicking Auto Zone's
butt when it comes to quality

Last edited by dmayhew; Oct 8, 2010 at 08:13 AM.
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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I got grade 8 bolts yesterday and mounted it on the stand and it seems fine. Yea, I was also thinking of supporting the front with something, I'll se, but it does seem fine, thank you for the replies, Joe
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 11:04 PM
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Wikipedia:

Chinesium, a part or combination of parts contains that looks exactly like a part you have seen before or looks good enough that you think it will work for it's intended purpose only to find out it rusts, breaks, causes injury, works for a few days then stops working, doesn't work at all when removed from packaging etc etc.

First discovered in GuangDong province of China it has become the China'a #1 export and it seems that regardless of how many houses are torn down because of drywall made mostly of Chinesium or toys and food that have unsafe levels of this substance for children, sales are on the increase as they have been for the last decade
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Old Oct 7, 2010 | 11:09 PM
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Had a big block on an engine stand for over 30 yrs. When I unbolted it from the stand they came right out, no problem. It will tend to sag a bit in the front, but no worries.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 02:50 AM
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I had a fully dresses (including cast irion intake and exhaust manifolds) big block fixed on a OTC engine stand for quite a while, I just used longer bolts into the engine's block.
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 07:00 AM
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I have 3 of the bigger Harbor Freight stands, the ones with splayed legs. I've had monsters on all 3, no problems.
Now the ones with a single lower leg "tricycle" type, even with two swivel casters on the leg, are very prone to tipping over. Make sure the shop floor is very clean before you try to roll one around, one small piece of gravel will stop the caster from rolling and over you go!
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Old Oct 20, 2019 | 10:23 AM
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Milodon sells a tray and bolt kit
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Old Oct 20, 2019 | 12:25 PM
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9 year old thread - probably a dead issue....
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