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From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
PS control valve ???
My 74 has power steering but it takes both arms to turn the steering wheel while stopped and even when moving it takes both hands.
My 72 has power steering..it is easy to maneuver about with one hand.....almost similar to the feel in a Ford...(sorry, but that's the best I can describe it)
I have replaced the pump attempting to get a little power to the "power steering"....no help.
Could it be the control valve?....I have never replaced one of those?
Yes. And it probably is a control valve problem (if you connected the hydraulic lines properly). If the signal valve (inside the unit) is frozen in place [rust/debris/whatever], then that valve can't send the proper pressure signal to the drive cylinder. If it has been rebuilt, it could have been assembled incorrectly so that it would not function. It is an easy item to rebuild; kits are about $20. If you decide to do so, look for Jim Shea's papers on the C3 power steering system and how to rebuild the various components.
Could be the hydraulic piston also. Try disconnecting the end of the piston at the frame bracket. With the engine off you should be able to move the piston rod in and out without binding. If that works, start the engine and turn the wheel both ways. If the piston rod doesn't move that would indicate a bad control valve.
I did it with a Zip rebuild kit and it works fine... no leaks! Pay a LOT of attention to the way it comes apart and find the post in this forum that has photos (on a white towel, as I recall). Getting the damned thing out is the trick, at least on mine.
That, and cleaning parts (as in any other job on old cars) takes the longest.
John
Originally Posted by fotyfobravo
Thanks guys....that gives me a plan rather than just throwing parts and $$ at it until I get lucky !
I see that ZIP has rebuilt units for $109.00 or I may try the rebuild...doesn't look to have THAT many parts !
Unscrewing the control valve from the steering link is no problem...
IF you first remove the lock bolt then use a small tool [like a small chisel or screwdriver bit] to spread the bolt flange apart so that it's not so tight on the threads. Then it's a 'piece of cake' to remove by turning it CCW until it comes off the link.
P.S. Once you get the 'spreader' driven in place, first turn the control valve clockwise [and count the turns] until it stops. Then when you install it again, you can turn it on to the link completely, then back off [CCW] that same amount and it will be in the same position as you found it.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Oct 25, 2010 at 11:02 AM.
From: Lake Arrowhead - Georgia > 72 Base Coupe & 74 BB Roadster
Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette
Could be the hydraulic piston also. Try disconnecting the end of the piston at the frame bracket. With the engine off you should be able to move the piston rod in and out without binding. If that works, start the engine and turn the wheel both ways. If the piston rod doesn't move that would indicate a bad control valve.
Rick B.
OK....Update.....I ordered a rebuild kit for the control valve.
The front end is jacked up and secure on stands. Today I disconnected the hydraulic rod from the frame bracket. Upon putting slight pressure (left or right) on the steering wheel - the hydraulic rod moves smoothly in the correct direction as it should. This leads me to believe that all is working properly.
I am going to check every joint on the tie rods, pitman....etc..... I think there may be a joint that is way too tight and the PS just can't overcome. This car drives as if it has "worse than manual" steering!