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Guys- Need some suggestions on ways to reduce play in my power steering. I don't believe i have parts that need replacement just that power steering doesn't allow for road feel and with 425 hp the car is hard to handle with quick steering. Years ago i had my steering pump built up with washers to reduce play and it did help but with more hp i need more of the same. Thanx Wade
PS- If there are no tricks to reduce play with my existing pump how much work and cost for a change over to standard steering?
Guys- Need some suggestions on ways to reduce play in my power steering. I don't believe i have parts that need replacement just that power steering doesn't allow for road feel and with 425 hp the car is hard to handle with quick steering. Years ago i had my steering pump built up with washers to reduce play and it did help but with more hp i need more of the same. Thanx Wade
PS- If there are no tricks to reduce play with my existing pump how much work and cost for a change over to standard steering?
I haven't done it in a long time. But I was able to adjust the worm gear on the steering box on my 77 for less play and tighter steering. I can't remember exactly how I did it. Maybe someone here will. But you can get it tighter.
Power steering shouldn't be any quicker with 400 HP than 200 HP. And I don't know what you are talking about with the pump. I think you need to look at the steering valve and make sure it is adjusted correctly.
Jim Shea is the expert on this subject, but I believe that the responsiveness of the C3 power steering system is somewhat a function of how stiff [or soft] the coiled spring is in the control valve (next to the ball joint 'plug'). If that spring is very stiff, the control would be more responsive (and feel tighter); if that spring is softer, it would need a little more movement to have it cause the valve to move so less responsive but not as 'tight' feeling. I believe that there was a change to the stiffness of that spring..sometime during the run of C3 production.
Another possibility is that the tie rods are installed in the wrong hole at the spindle knuckle. The tie rod should be connected to the inner hole for a power steering car [and the outer hole for the manual steering model].
Important note of clarification:That article is not my article - it has come up before with my name on it, but that's a cut-and-paste job by somebody. That article is an original article written by Jim Shea: I have a copy of the correct, original article with his name on it. The first version of that article that I received from Jim did not have his name on it, so when I sent it out to a few people, somebody took the liberty of copying and pasting my credit info onto Jim's article from one of my other papers. If someone could give me a contact name or e-mail address over at the hosting website I'll have them correct or replace that article.
Lars
Update: I have sent a note to CorvetteActionCenter asking them to remove the article and to contact me for a correct copy. If anyone is aware of other websites posting that incorrectly credited article, please let me know: V8FastCars@msn.com
Moving the tie rods to the inner holes on the spindle would make the steering "quicker". Using the outer holes would make it "slower". Either change would require the toe in to be readjusted.
I'm also confused about the PS pump washers and how that affects the quickness of the steering.
"Quick" is very subjective and can describe many different conditions. I have seen the term used to indicate that the steering input seemed to make the car dart - i.e. be too responsive and turn too fast. This happens in C3's when the frame sags slightly with age. You wind up losing the necessary caster adjustment. A car with little caster will feel very responsive and one with more will feel slow and heavy steering. This is what I experienced.
Before doing anything mechanical, I suggest that the o.p. get his alignment checked. If it is good, then begin looking at all of the other problems/solutions discussed above
Wadey I suggest converting to Steeroids rack and pinion. I did mine a few months ago and what a great set up. My 75 drives like my 2003. They are running an article in VETTE mag right now called Project C3 Triple-Ex where they made the conversion a few articles back. Just my suggestion its well worth the price. Makes it alot more fun driving a C3. Just my 2 cents.
Wadey I suggest converting to Steeroids rack and pinion. I did mine a few months ago and what a great set up. My 75 drives like my 2003. They are running an article in VETTE mag right now called Project C3 Triple-Ex where they made the conversion a few articles back. Just my suggestion its well worth the price. Makes it alot more fun driving a C3. Just my 2 cents.
R/S
sgm
I have not driven a C3 with a rack and pinion conversion but I can tell you that with the right setup, one can get very close to a rack and pinion feel from a C3. Granted the recirculating ball system on our cars is not the ideal setup but it can be optimized for steering feel, handling response, and just about zero play if the steering box is rebuilt correctly and with improvements during the rebuild process. Just an FYI, the early 2000 BMW 540's used recirculating ball in their production cars and I can tell you that it was pretty darn good from personal experience, having driven a friend's 540 a few years ago-it can be done. I just had my OEM box with 65,000 miles rebuilt and blueprinted by GTR1999 (hand adjusted and with a custom shaft bushing) and there is zero play in the steering now with incredible feel. Does it respond like my 2010 Z06?-NO! Is it very close to 3 other cars I own with rack and pinion steering?-Yes!
Wadey I suggest converting to Steeroids rack and pinion. I did mine a few months ago and what a great set up. My 75 drives like my 2003. They are running an article in VETTE mag right now called Project C3 Triple-Ex where they made the conversion a few articles back. Just my suggestion its well worth the price. Makes it alot more fun driving a C3. Just my 2 cents.
R/S
sgm
Seeroids is nice, but the turn radius is significantly reduced.
Seeroids is nice, but the turn radius is significantly reduced.
Yes your correct money cures all. But I think this is the best bang for it buck you will find. I find steering ratio is not that big a deal when the majority of the time your cursen along. As far as what its like well go drive a 2003 Corvette thats the way it drives. Skinney steering wheel is a little odd. Thanks
sgm
Last edited by sgm2004; Nov 7, 2010 at 11:10 AM.
Reason: add to
Yes your correct money cures all. But I think this is the best bang for it buck you will find. I find steering ratio is not that big a deal when the majority of the time your cursen along. As far as what its like well go drive a 2003 Corvette thats the way it drives. Skinney steering wheel is a little odd. Thanks
sgm
Very good. I didn't say anything about throwing money at it, and I didn't mention anything about steering ratio. What I said, is the turn radius is reduced. Meaning you cant turn it in a tight circle. I like the way it feels otherwise.
Very good. I didn't say anything about throwing money at it, and I didn't mention anything about steering ratio. What I said, is the turn radius is reduced. Meaning you cant turn it in a tight circle. I like the way it feels otherwise.
Sorry bout that wombvette I got my treads mixed up. Getting old and sniffing to many gas fumes.
Very good. I didn't say anything about throwing money at it, and I didn't mention anything about steering ratio. What I said, is the turn radius is reduced. Meaning you cant turn it in a tight circle. I like the way it feels otherwise.
C4's had rack and pinion steering. There is more to steering and handling than just the steering mechanism. For a variety of reasons, A C3 will not handle like a C5 and definitely not like a C6, BUT one can get very close using the stock design components, optimized for the chasiss design.