Planning on buying a rebuild kit for my quadrajet this weekend as we are expecting rain and this seems like a good way to pass some time.
I knew that this carb had been "reman'd" at some point, the casting number is 7029202, which should be on a '69 right? Could it be considered a 'correct' carb for my '70 350/300?
Also, and most interestingly, what is the goober that looks like jb weld in this picture?

Do I need to remove it?
Since this carb has been commercially rebuilt do I need to look for anything in particular?
Thanks,
Russ

 

It looks like regular epoxy on that input. As far as rebuilding, others will chime-in on best practices. With any luck, Lars will post some help.

 

Carb 7029202 is for a 69 Vette with a 300-horse 350 and auto trans. No, it would not be considered "correct" for a 1970 Vette, but it can be set up to run just fine.

The "goober" is JBWeld. Some people apply JBWeld to all of the pressed-in plugs on a Q-Jet, even though this is a poor way of fixing leaks. I would remove it and see if the area actually leaks or not.

For cautions about commercially rebuilt carbs, send me an e-mail request for my "Commercially Rebuilt Q-Jet Problems" paper - it outlines dozens of the most common problems and issues with commercial carbs.

Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com

 

Get rid of the inline filter and rubber hose while you're at it. That's a fire waiting to happen.

 

Lars: e-mail sent, thanks

Mike: I keep an eye out for good stock engine bay photos so that I can tell what's not right, I'll look around to see where that thing belongs.

Cheers,
Russ

 

Russ-

No Corvette had anything rubber after the pump. Bubba has visited your car.

 

Bubba visited, then he broke the steering wheel getting out of it and then painted it a god-awful non-original color.
I'm finding more evidence of his apparently too frequent visits. S'ok though, gives me something to fix I suppose.
Russ

 

Hey Russde. That Q-jet you have there will work just fine. If you want to clean it up a bit, get a hold of Cliff Ruggles at cliffshighperformance.com to buy one of his rebuild kits. Its the best i have ever seen and the rubber pieces will withstand the E-85 stuff.
Alot of times when you see a rubber hose to the fuel inlet on a Q-jet it is because the P.O. took the inner bronze filter screen out of the threaded inlet hub. This filter is problomatic because it clogs easily. If you remove it you will have to put in an inline filter in the fuel line, ergo the steel fuel line from the pump is cut and then the filter with a rubber line is inplace. I would suggest not soaking your carb main body on the rebuild since you have some epoxy there. You do not have to soak a carb to rebuild it, unless there is an exceptionally plugged passage. Most don't need it. Use alot of carb spray cleaner and spray the heck of of all opennings then blow air thru them. It'll be clean. Ruggles also has a good gasket set. Use it, it will save you some headaches. Your carb doen't need to be changed, i mean modified, just cleaned. Unless you have built a new motor and the carb might need modified for that. Just clean it, put it back together and check all settings and adjustments according to the original factory specs and your good to go.

 

Not correct. If the carb is, in fact, a commercially rebuilt carb, it cannot be simply cleaned and set up to spec. There will be damaged parts, altered parts, incorrect parts, and mismatched parts that will have to be identified, repaired, and replaced. Commercially rebuilt carbs are often in such bad condition that they actually cannot be rebuilt - Cliff and I will often refuse to work on them due to their severe condition. The carb will need a careful evaluation going far beyond a simple cleaning and setup if it's a commecially rebuilt unit.

Lars