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When you change your body mounts the new rubber height changes the height of the whole cabin pretty much the same all the way around? My old ones were in pretty bad shape.Couldn't really tell if shims were present, should I just put a shim at each mount like it shows in the directions? I measured the space between the fiberglass and the frame there is a fair amount of difference in the #4 mounts.
Hi C,
The shims are really used to obtain a good fit for the door and hood gaps. I'd start with 2 shims at each location and add or subtract at each mount to get gaps you're satisfied with.
Determining where to add or subtract and the effect it will have on the gaps takes some experimenting.
The factory had cars with zero shims and five shims on the same car.
Regards,
Alan
Dumm question, all the shims in the package are the same thickness, seems like it would be to much. I measured my gaps around the doors their pretty much the same. wouldn't the shims only adjust vertical or the height? Also the new bushing are sure to add to the height
Last edited by croaker; Dec 14, 2010 at 04:55 PM.
Reason: add
Hi c,
The body is flexible enough that the number of shims in place torque/twist the body somewhat when the body mount bolts are tightened.
This is especially evident on convertibles. You see the effect of shims for example when you have a door gap that's wide at the top and narrower at the bottom of the rear of the door. Shims in the right place can even that gap.
Regards,
Alan
Mines a coupe so it should be a little more rigid. My #2 mounting bolts are awful. This is gonna be a lot bigger job then I figured. I really didn't want to lift both sidea at the same time
One other thing I see a lot of people lifting the body along the door sill is enough meat there to do that?
Really depends on the condition of the birdcage. You have to get underneath with a light and a mirror to look at the condition of the channels under the doors before deciding what to do. Birdcage rust is unpredictable. Sometimes one area might be bad and sometimes another area might be bad. Sometimes they are good also. Hope for the best.
Hi c,
The body is flexible enough that the number of shims in place torque/twist the body somewhat when the body mount bolts are tightened.
This is especially evident on convertibles. You see the effect of shims for example when you have a door gap that's wide at the top and narrower at the bottom of the rear of the door. Shims in the right place can even that gap.
Regards,
Alan
Alan,
That is exactly what I am experiencing on my 72 Convertible. Both the Driver and Passenger side has a wide gap at the top rear of the door, although the margins on front of both doors is perfect. Where would you suggest I start my inspection?
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by croaker
Dumm question, all the shims in the package are the same thickness, seems like it would be to much. I measured my gaps around the doors their pretty much the same. wouldn't the shims only adjust vertical or the height? Also the new bushing are sure to add to the height
Originally Posted by croaker
Mines a coupe so it should be a little more rigid. My #2 mounting bolts are awful. This is gonna be a lot bigger job then I figured. I really didn't want to lift both sidea at the same time
Originally Posted by croaker
One other thing I see a lot of people lifting the body along the door sill is enough meat there to do that?
I've been told by a corvette mechanic the shims are to ensure the doors operate correctly. Or you could say the test for body mount shims is the door operation. So it may be a lift and shim and repeat to get it right.
So the trick to lifting the body from under the door sill is use a 2x4 cut to the length and lift the body with that. Here's mine: view from rear of wheel well trying to show entry under body channel. Body lifted 4".