Hood to fender alignment.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 13
From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
Hood to fender alignment.
The hood is so much mis-aligned to the fenders, do I have a bad hood or is the body is not correctly aligned? .. I wish I know someone who got a '68-'72 locally so I can borrow his hood to diagnose the problem!
do you think I can "shim" the front clip to bring it up a little bit to make it flash with the hood?
Openions are highly appreciated
.
do you think I can "shim" the front clip to bring it up a little bit to make it flash with the hood?
Openions are highly appreciated
.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,634
Likes: 1
From: aurora
your nose has drooped
There are 4 bolts on each side of the car that you access from the wheel well.Loosen ,lift,adjust, tighten .They are a pita to get to ,and as I say be very careful .These are the only bolts on the front clip the rest is glued so the amount of adjustment shouldn’t be much.
now that's for my 81 someone chime in if i am wrong for his year.
Todd
There are 4 bolts on each side of the car that you access from the wheel well.Loosen ,lift,adjust, tighten .They are a pita to get to ,and as I say be very careful .These are the only bolts on the front clip the rest is glued so the amount of adjustment shouldn’t be much.
now that's for my 81 someone chime in if i am wrong for his year.
Todd
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
First check if there are shims under the hinges. If there are no shims, you can lift the front of the body. You have outer mounts that bolt to the frame and go forward to the bumper (one at each corner). You loosen 3 bolts on the frame and then they can be moved. They have a lot of adjustment, so be careful not to crack the body.
The center is held by a rod that bolts to the the core support. This is adjustable at the upper end that bolts to the body. Loosen one bolt, lift, tighten. You probably should remove the bumper before adjusting the body.
The center is held by a rod that bolts to the the core support. This is adjustable at the upper end that bolts to the body. Loosen one bolt, lift, tighten. You probably should remove the bumper before adjusting the body.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 13
From: Doha
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks all for the tips, but just to make I'll be on the right track, can you please verify if I also need to loosen the bolts # (4,5,6) as well? .. I ask that because its holding the radiator support, which can't be moved up with the body, or can it be?
Is there any other bolt/nut that have to be loosened in order to move the whole front clip upward?
Is there any other bolt/nut that have to be loosened in order to move the whole front clip upward?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi,
I'm sorry... what am I missing here?
When you move/shim the front clip don't the points at which the hood hinges mount move right along with the clip?
The bracket/rivets that has bolts # 4, 5, and 6, in it, in Ham's picture, insure that.
It seems to me the only way to lower the hood relative to the hood surround IF there are no shims under the hinges is to break the hood surround loose from the inner fenders.
Regards,
Alan
I'm sorry... what am I missing here?
When you move/shim the front clip don't the points at which the hood hinges mount move right along with the clip?
The bracket/rivets that has bolts # 4, 5, and 6, in it, in Ham's picture, insure that.
It seems to me the only way to lower the hood relative to the hood surround IF there are no shims under the hinges is to break the hood surround loose from the inner fenders.
Regards,
Alan
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 33
From: Lokeren, Belgium
I'm glad you pointed that out Alan. I have an almost exact mismatch at the left side, right side is ok and no shims under the hinge. I was also looking to solve it but as Alan wrote I think all hood relzted brackets move along with the clip? Guess I'll have to live with it
Nick
Nick
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
No, you don't loosen 4, 5, and 6 in your pic. What you want to do is raise the front edge of the body without raising the core support. You are limited in how far you can raise the fender right at the hood corners due to the fenders being attached to the inner fenders. You have maybe 3/16"-1/4" to play with. Any more than that and you have to separate the inner fender from the surround panel (which is not as bad as it sounds).
Nick: Your misalignment is small enough that I think it can be corrected by raising the outside frame horns.
Nick: Your misalignment is small enough that I think it can be corrected by raising the outside frame horns.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Z,
The bracket that the hood hinge nuts are spot welded to it is held to the front clip fiberglass with body rivets. I don't see how you raise the fiberglass surround without also raising that bracket. The position of that bracket relative to the fiberglass determines the lowest possible set for the hood hinge.
There was a thread a few months (?) ago in which someone cut the fiberglass apron out so the hinge sat right on top of the bracket. This lowered the hood relative to the surround by the thickness of the fiberglass apron. (BUTCHER!, sorry!)
I still think the cure is resetting the surround to the aprons. NOT a pleasant job.
Regards,
Alan
Here's the bolt head side of the 4 bolts (2 hood hinge and 2 hood support) you see in Ham's picture. There's no way they move without cutting the bracket, that has the nuts attached, loose from the fiberglass.
The bracket that the hood hinge nuts are spot welded to it is held to the front clip fiberglass with body rivets. I don't see how you raise the fiberglass surround without also raising that bracket. The position of that bracket relative to the fiberglass determines the lowest possible set for the hood hinge.
There was a thread a few months (?) ago in which someone cut the fiberglass apron out so the hinge sat right on top of the bracket. This lowered the hood relative to the surround by the thickness of the fiberglass apron. (BUTCHER!, sorry!)
I still think the cure is resetting the surround to the aprons. NOT a pleasant job.
Regards,
Alan
Here's the bolt head side of the 4 bolts (2 hood hinge and 2 hood support) you see in Ham's picture. There's no way they move without cutting the bracket, that has the nuts attached, loose from the fiberglass.
Last edited by Alan 71; Jan 2, 2011 at 11:41 AM.
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Advanced
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
hood alignment
I had the same problem on the right side of my car. I took a putty knife and seperated the inner fender and hood surround back about 6 inches and l then carefully lifted the front of the offending fender till it aligned and tighetened the bolts back down. Been 5 years since no problems.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,189
Likes: 111
From: Tolland CT
Hi Z,
The bracket that the hood hinge nuts are spot welded to it is held to the front clip fiberglass with body rivets. I don't see how you raise the fiberglass surround without also raising that bracket. The position of that bracket relative to the fiberglass determines the lowest possible set for the hood hinge.
There was a thread a few months (?) ago in which someone cut the fiberglass apron out so the hinge sat right on top of the bracket. This lowered the hood relative to the surround by the thickness of the fiberglass apron. (BUTCHER!, sorry!)
I still think the cure is resetting the surround to the aprons. NOT a pleasant job.
Regards,
Alan
Here's the bolt head side of the 4 bolts (2 hood hinge and 2 hood support) you see in Ham's picture. There's no way they move without cutting the bracket, that has the nuts attached, loose from the fiberglass.
The bracket that the hood hinge nuts are spot welded to it is held to the front clip fiberglass with body rivets. I don't see how you raise the fiberglass surround without also raising that bracket. The position of that bracket relative to the fiberglass determines the lowest possible set for the hood hinge.
There was a thread a few months (?) ago in which someone cut the fiberglass apron out so the hinge sat right on top of the bracket. This lowered the hood relative to the surround by the thickness of the fiberglass apron. (BUTCHER!, sorry!)
I still think the cure is resetting the surround to the aprons. NOT a pleasant job.
Regards,
Alan
Here's the bolt head side of the 4 bolts (2 hood hinge and 2 hood support) you see in Ham's picture. There's no way they move without cutting the bracket, that has the nuts attached, loose from the fiberglass.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
You are correct, you can't raise the fender at the hinge without separating the fender from the inner fender. What I was (somewhat unsuccessfully) trying to describe was that you can raise the fender at the front corner of the hood by raising the frame horn, since that front corner is quite a bit forward of the hinge.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Z,
Yes, that I can understand.
If the body is drooped a bit, forward of the hinge point, shimming the mounting points may bring the area of the surround forward of the hood up a bit. I believe the bumper mounts must be loosened too so the bumper can come up with the surround and headlights.
Because the front clip is positioned by both bonding and mechanical connections it's difficult to understand what change has what effect.
Also, on some cars that have had fiberglass work done on them, some of the bonds may not be good so that things move around in a way, or more, than originally intended.
Regards,
Alan
Yes, that I can understand.
If the body is drooped a bit, forward of the hinge point, shimming the mounting points may bring the area of the surround forward of the hood up a bit. I believe the bumper mounts must be loosened too so the bumper can come up with the surround and headlights.
Because the front clip is positioned by both bonding and mechanical connections it's difficult to understand what change has what effect.
Also, on some cars that have had fiberglass work done on them, some of the bonds may not be good so that things move around in a way, or more, than originally intended.
Regards,
Alan
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Monroe Washington
HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL,
I agree with Alan, Swede and Tom68 with the hood misaligned as much as it looks. You may have to do a little of each. Was your hood always misaligned? How did it get so far out of alignment.
I agree with Alan, Swede and Tom68 with the hood misaligned as much as it looks. You may have to do a little of each. Was your hood always misaligned? How did it get so far out of alignment.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,285
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Z,
It's 'Clear Zinc' from Eastwood. #20800Z
I used a wire brush to remove any rust and oxidation and then sprayed a very thin coat. You need to be very careful to get the bolts in place without marring the paint.
Regards,
Alan
It's 'Clear Zinc' from Eastwood. #20800Z
I used a wire brush to remove any rust and oxidation and then sprayed a very thin coat. You need to be very careful to get the bolts in place without marring the paint.
Regards,
Alan
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 160
Likes: 1
I've got the same problem but it's the door and hood.
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...ettepix007.jpg
Sorry guys... im new at posting pix... thought it would put the pix in the post, guess i done something wrong. I know it's a work in progress
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...ettepix003.jpg
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...ettepix007.jpg
Sorry guys... im new at posting pix... thought it would put the pix in the post, guess i done something wrong. I know it's a work in progress
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...ettepix003.jpg
Last edited by MarkBullis; Jan 2, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
