my trip odo dosent reset.
have tried turning, pulling, pushing etc.
odo works fine, so does the speedo, it's just not resettable.
so i'm thinking that the reset cable is seized.
does the cable just unscrew from the speedo housing and pull out?
or do i have to remove the speedo from the dash to fix?
looking at pic's from the vendors and in the aim, there appears to be a thread at the speedo end.
but i'm not sure how the small end then attaches into the speedo.
the aim is not that clear what happens after that.
and the photos on the web dont show the rest clearly enough.
any ideas?

thanks

 

your in luck just pulled that part of my dash yesterday.

the od reset cable it unsrews and pulls out about two full turns. dont know how hard it would be with the dash in place but you should be able to get some needle nose pliers up there dont hit the speedo relese clip its right next to it

 

It is a little difficult to get it out and back in, while it is still in the dash, but it can be done, it does just unscrew. Sometimes these cables are fine, they are just binding, due to the routing of it, Before you take it out, try to look underneath to see if it has a gentle curve in the cable, or if it looks like it has a hard bend to it, try to rerout it, to see if you can reset it.

 

ok, an update, i finally got around to looking into this more
managed to crawl under the dash and get a long spanner onto the back of the nut
took a while, but it came out,
the outer casing at speedo end was bent tight at right angles therefore not allowing the cable to push in and turn
the outer spiral casing is unwound and stretched, bent
from what i can see, it comes out of the speedo and drops straight down
so instead of just buying a std replacement, i was thinking of getting 1 made up longer, so that i can get more of a curve into it
even if i relocate the reset **** to a different place
any thoughts?

 

I have both a repo and the original on hand and the originals spiral casing is starting to get unwound at the bend I guess that is simply a casualty of time. the repo is very ductile and will be fine with a sharp curve.

 

Coupes usually aren't too bad to get the gentle bends so the cable works well,verts can be a PITA with the extra braces.
Bottom line if everything is in its factory location the cable will work fine. Kinked cables are from previous work when things were not reinstalled correctly.

 

Hi,
I've found that the exact location of the hood-release bracket and handle can affect the placement of the small bracket for the odo re-set cable and courtesy light mount. This sometimes contributes to the re-set cable wanting to have a kink.
Maybe?
Regards,
Alan

 

If you're lucky, a new cable routed correctly will fix the problem. However there is a small plastic gear in there that connects the odometer to the trip-o-meter. I had a problem on my '73, where I could reset the trip-o-meter to zero, but it would not register miles. I took the cluster apart twice and each time I could make it work on the bench, but once I installed it in the car it would not work. I finally bought a new speedometer head and replaced it and it worked fine.

I took the old speedometer head to Carlisle that year and a guy fixed it for $15... all it needed was the small plastic gear replaced. I ended up using it after I did a frame off on the '73.

When reassembling the interior, someone connected the reset cable to the speedometer head and lower bracket beforehand - then inserted the cluster into the dash. Unfortunately there is a brace behind the cluster (mine is a convertible which may not be there on a coupe) and kinked the cable pretty significantly. This damaged the speedometer head and neither the odometer nor trip-o-meter would work. I removed the cluster and replaced the speedometer head with the original and routed the cable correctly and it works fine.

I insert the reset cable into the speedometer head and let it hang loose. As I insert the cluster into the dash, I route the cable over the brace and then down to the bracket at the bottom of the cluster where you access it. In my car the brace will definitely put a significant bend in the reset cable and can, as it did to mine even damage the speedometer head.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

update
not sure how your supposed to get the cable in here!
there is a 1/4" thick bracket about 3/4" behind where the cable screws into, guess thats why mine was bent sharp at 90 deg
you karnt get a straight run at it.
reset works, as i placed the inner only in and that turns freely to reset the odo
would the newer cables that you say are more flexible, have a better chance of going in over the bracket?
is this bracket normally this close?
does any 1 have a photo with dash out that i can see?

sorry for the crap photo's, not easy to get to under dash lying on ur back

 

I just replaced my odometer reset cable this weekend. I have to say the 3rd time is a charm. I removed teh tach a few years ago and did't pay attention to how the Odometer cable was routed. The convertibles have two cross braces about 1/2" from teh back of the odometer connections. When I put the instrument panel back in I rounted teh cable in front of the braces (WRONG). It bent and didn't work. I got a used cable from a friend and repeated the mistake and bent another one. Bought a new one and decided at $75 I needed to figure it out. The forum was a great advising about the braces but not the routing.

I tried between the two braces but once the dash starts to go back in it binds again.

The convertible solution: Install the cable horizontal with the cable routed ABOVE both cross braces. I pulled the left instrument panel out a few inches and lowered the steering column for extra room. With the cable horizontal you can thread the cable into the back of the speedo fitting by hand. Reinstall the instrument panel and then bring the cable around to the lower atachment point.

Hope this helps!

 

i actually just finished this at the weekend on saturday
i ended up by undoing the screws for the left dash panel and gently prying it out at the top
undone the steering support bolts as well
when/if i ever take the dash completly out i will be grinding some off the support brace behind there
silly how it's done that way, goes in facing slightly down, then goes up and over the bracket, then down again
i also slit the thin bracket where it bolts up to on bottom of the dash
that allowed it to match the curve a bit better

i didnt buy a new 1, just pulled mine apart, straightened the outer casing where it was bent/stretched,
turned the casing 180deg to put the damaged end at the bottom and reassembled

every1 for your help on this