Mar 5, 2015, 06:09 PM
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Leaking brake caliper -need advice
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: grandview Texas
Leaking brake caliper -need advice
My master cylinder on my newly purchased 71 has a small leak at the firewall (rear seal I guess), so i purchased a Chrome replacement. I removed the rear wheels to get ready to bleed the brakes, and discovered a small leak in the left rear caliper on the inboard side. At first glance it appears to be leaking at one of the pistons. I have not removed it yet.
My question is, can I safely just replace just that caliper, or do I need to replace both of the rears?
Thanks in advance for the help. Love this forum!
My question is, can I safely just replace just that caliper, or do I need to replace both of the rears?
Thanks in advance for the help. Love this forum!
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 5
From: Middleburg Florida
You can replace one, however, I'd suggest you look at the others as well. You could also just change the rears now and the fronts later if you have to. If these are original, they likely have lip seals in them and will probably have issues later. If you can, I'd take this opportunity to upgrade to stainless steel sleeved and O ringed, or at least O ringed calipers. That'll save you time effort and money in the long run...
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: grandview Texas
brakes
OK, I am going to replace all four. Ordered SS O ring type powder coated red, new braided lines, and pads. Hope I don't have to much *&^% bleeding everything. The sticky post on bleeding brakes attached to this forum is scary.
Should I change out my master cylinder and bleed everything first, and then replace the calipers and rebleed, or just do it all at once?
Should I change out my master cylinder and bleed everything first, and then replace the calipers and rebleed, or just do it all at once?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
Read the brake bleeding sticky.It will explain a lot.replace everything and then bleed them.why do twice.bench bleed the master cylinder before you put it on.saves a lot time later.there is a lot written about this on the forum.mine was a pain to bleed.take your time and don't get in too big a hurry.read up on it and it will all make sense.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 255
Likes: 3
Dont put to much worries in your head before you do the job. I was like you and thought this was going to be a nightmare. I first bled my new master cylinder on the bench, (using Dot 5 silicone which was just my preference) (many here will feel different) put it on the car and did the rear next, removed the hoses and calipers and left it gravity bleed till the line was clear with new fluid. Then installed the new calipers and left them gravity bleed till clear. The car was on leveled jackstands. Once rear was done gravity bleeding went to front and replaced hoses and calipers and left them gravity bleed. At this point the brakes were very good. Then just to be sure I had someone pump the brakes while I broke all bleeders open. Took only about 2 1/2 hours and all my worrying was over.
Good Luck
Rodney
Good Luck
Rodney
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: grandview Texas
bleeding
I have bled a lot of brakes using the pump it and hold it method. The proportioning valve getting stuck is what spooks me. I will try the gravity feed method. Did you have to pump the brake at all to get it flowing?
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,113
Likes: 35
From: LaUgH, mOrE!
You'll find a pretty good write up (though it needs to be updated) with lots of pictures here (clicky).
Also, Be sure to soak the old brake line connections at least overnight in Liquid Wrench or a penetrating liquid. If original, they can be a real pain to loosen. Use a good quality flare nut wrench.
I did all my calipers & lines 2 years ago ('79). If you need any pics, just holler.
Enjoy!
Also, Be sure to soak the old brake line connections at least overnight in Liquid Wrench or a penetrating liquid. If original, they can be a real pain to loosen. Use a good quality flare nut wrench.
I did all my calipers & lines 2 years ago ('79). If you need any pics, just holler.
Enjoy!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Just exercise the brake pedal (both UP and DOWN) S-L-O-W-L-Y. That should minimize the "P-valve lockup" syndrome and also prevent turbulence from putting air bubbles into the system while you are trying to bleed them. Also, if it has been a long time since brake fluid has been exchanged, make sure you purge all of the old fluid, as it ages and absorbs water. With heating, that absorbed moisture makes steam and results in spongy feel.
Work from the farthest bleed screw from the master cylinder, to the closest. That's the best way for you to keep air out of the system. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the M/C. If it drops more than 1/2" from the 'full' level, you risk putting new air in the fluid.
Work from the farthest bleed screw from the master cylinder, to the closest. That's the best way for you to keep air out of the system. Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the M/C. If it drops more than 1/2" from the 'full' level, you risk putting new air in the fluid.
