I feel the same way, although after my explination of the parts I'll still do the deal as long as they understand the difference.
It's like a disclaimer so to speak. I look at it as I've made the best part I can given what I have to work with.
Often I've had customers hold off a bit and end up getting more quality parts. Sometimes not.
I would rather do it your way, as I'd bet the machine shop in question would, but I'll do them if I can have more confidence in the part. But hell, who knows the quality of the metal iron/steel/aluminum. Any voids, inclusions?
I guess as long as the customer is informed, they are adults, they can make up their own minds. As long as they don't try to blame me for product short comings.

 

Seems some of you guys find the parts in this block inferior. I'm curious, is it the Scat crank, or the Probe Forged pistons, (made in Los Angles) or could it be the Howards cam and Morrel retro lifters, also make in the USA. The Manley 4130 chromoly one pc. 80 wall pushrods could be an issue. The Procomp heads that come on this engine are certainly questionable, but why would we put them on the engine if we have to warranty it. The stainless roller rockers are PRW, and they are offshore, and the most expensive and certainly the best off shore rockers on the market. The comment on the honing finish was certainly understandable, as were using a 2010 year model Sunnen SV-10 diomond hone machine to do these blocks.($52,000.00 cost) I'll be sure and tell Fred White to update his honning equip. at least to the currant year model. As for the guy that finds me to be weird, would you explain, and tell me how you know this about me. I don't recall meeting you, and would like to know how you found this about me. Only my close freinds and family know about this weirdness I have.
For those that had positive comments or at least had nothing bad to say about me or my company, I am gratefull.

Now lets be real for a moment. Were selling a 383 with a Brand new Bowtie block, forged Probe pistons, Scat cast nod. crank, 5.7 bushed rods, Melling m55a high pressure oil pump, PRW stainless rockers, stud girdles, fabricated valve covers, polished alum. ribbed oil pan, Pro. products, alum. intake. Delphi lifters,( the retro roller cam with retro style roller lifters is a $425.00 upgrade). The Procomp heads we use have cnc'd combustion chambers, 200 long non mag. stainless valves, and comp. 10 degree locks, with Manley screw in studs. We sell this engine for $3,850.00 How could we possibly put better parts in this for this price, and why would you need anything better in a street rod making around 440-475hp.

 

Had a set of Pro Comp rods today as a matter of fact. from light to heavy 3 grams. a solid 2/10s under min. That's why I don't use them out of the box. Like I said before. They should be inspected and adjusted accordingly. If that fits the budget so be it. As long as the customer knows there are better parts available at an increased price.
I said before, those parts open access to a custom engine to people who otherwise would never have one.
As far as weird goes, I wouldn't know it if I saw it, ask my wife.
The best I remember, I complimented your place with regard to the equipment you have. That isn't the gear a inept shop would have. I don't believe there is much of a discussion as far as whether there are more quality parts available as well as lesser quality parts.
Personally I won't use either eagle or scat unless I turn them. Burned a couple time won't do it again. More so with eagle.
That's all I have to say about that.

 

Items I would be looking for when buying a 383 crate engine that do not apply to this engine in order of importance to me.
1. Internally balanced
2. Quality heads
3. Roller cam
4. 4 bolt mains
5. Someone's name on the rods to be able to research them.
6. (optional but important to me) Forged, quality rotating assembly.

The above was my first post on this link. The above are important points to me. I understand this adds to the cost. You are providing a less expensive option which you do to make your price competitive. I realize this is neccessary to sell more volume and volume keeps the doors open. I have bought parts from you and had good service and everything was as advertised and expected. I would make the above changes and spend a little more if it were me to get the long term durability I would expect forking over the money to build an engine. You may have these upgrades available which would be great. My build specs would not be possible for $3850.

 

63mako's points.
1) I agree
2)would be nice can live without them if machined well.
3)It's nice but can live ether way.
4)Not that big of a deal to me. Plenty of 3.750 stroke motors run well 2 bolt. 2 bolt block with splayed I like better. (more money) Heck all of it's more money.
5)Very much agree. I listed what the results with a set today were above. Two tenths to small ( 2/10,000s) isn't much but better large than small.
6)Not a big fan of cast cranks, but Forged is expensive.
If I could spend extra cash I'd spend it in the bottom end and if a roller, in the lifters.
If it isn't as powerful as one would like, at least it will last and last. Strength in the bottom, speed in the top end. You can always change heads and intake with the engine still in the car.