1971 Sill Plate Removal

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Apr 26, 2011 | 04:06 PM

maggie82

Thread Starter

Advanced

Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 56

Likes: 0

From: Milwaukee Wisconsin

1971 Sill Plate Removal

I am trying to remove my sill plates and the 8 screws that hold it down. Screws are not budging at all. I've tried PB Blaster with an impact driver with no luck. Does anyone have any suggestions other than drilling out the bolts? I’m not sure what’s under the plate, I don’t want to make any more problems with the drill if I don’t have too. I have new plates to install; I could care less if I ruin the current ones on the car.

Thanks in advance

Apr 26, 2011 | 04:16 PM

Alan 71

Team Owner

Joined: Sep 2006

Posts: 31,301

Likes: 4,389

From: Westminster Maryland

Hi m,
The sill plate screws are self tapping screws that go through the sill plate, and through the fiberglass rocker cover into the steel rocker channel.
The underside of the screws are exposed to the road to some degree so often get quite rusty.
If you can't break them loose with out destroying the head, or twisting them off, I'm afraid drilling is your next choice.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

If you happen to enlarge the hole in the channel getting the screws out there are some pretty easy fixes for that problem.

Apr 26, 2011 | 04:28 PM

maggie82

Thread Starter

Advanced

Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 56

Likes: 0

From: Milwaukee Wisconsin

Would I be better off with a smaller bit and easy out or should I just drill through the diameter of the head?

Apr 26, 2011 | 05:50 PM

oldsarge

Race Director

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 10,977

Likes: 19

From: Canboro Ontario

Quote:

Originally Posted by maggie82

Would I be better off with a smaller bit and easy out or should I just drill through the diameter of the head?

Start with a smaller bit to drill thru the center of the screw, work your way up slowly, size wise, eventually the head will come off and you will see the size of the screw itself. Then start again, using smaller bits to remove the screw portion, until it comes out. This will help you to maintain the original size hole in the channel frame.

Apr 26, 2011 | 06:43 PM

7T1vette

Team Owner

Joined: Jan 2006

Posts: 37,637

Likes: 3,118

From: Crossville TN

As an 'alternative' suggestion, you should drill into the screw head with a drill just a 'smidgen' larger than the root diameter of the screw thread. [Note: That's not the 'outer' diameter of the screw thread, but the diameter at the bottom of the threads. This size will remove all screw shank material except for the threads...which can easily be removed with a pick after drilling.]

Apr 27, 2011 | 11:53 AM

Sigforty

Le Mans Master

Joined: Apr 2001

Posts: 5,941

Likes: 281

From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA

Cruise-In IX Veteran

Some easy outs or reverse drill bits would be my choice before drilling through the screw.

Apr 27, 2011 | 02:38 PM

79 t-top

Instructor

Joined: Apr 2006

Posts: 191

Likes: 0

From: MN

how about squirting some lubricating oil in there let it sit for a bit and then try to have a go.

Apr 27, 2011 | 11:17 PM

Korevette

Racer

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 427

Likes: 1

I have in the past used a small chisel and hit the 'Philips screw" on the top on the opposing ends sideways as to reverse it to loosen it before turning out with a quality screwdriver such a Mac tools or Snap On.

Be carefull and accurate with the tools and you should be able to break loose the rust that is holding onto that screw.

Dano,