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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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Default proportioning valve

I bought a new one a while back due to brake bleeding problems.I changed everything but the valve and got a hard pedal.yesterday I couldn't leave good enough alone and changed the valve.now the car pulls hard to the left on braking.it braked straight before I Changed it.what gives.I beginning to think everthing you buy for these old cars are made in China junk.It has new oringed calibers so I don't think that would be the problem.like I said it wasn't doing it before.Im not going to say where I bought it from othere than it was one of the vendors.the car is fun to drive and its a nice car but when the economy picks up I maybe letting it go.I would rather have something I don't have to work on every week.a buddy has a 55 chevy.cranks runs fine and dosent require constant work and its easy to get in and out of.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 11:26 AM
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Did you bleed the system after changing the P-valve? Also, when doing the bleeding process, you have to push the brake pedal v-e-r-y s-l-o-w-l-y and release it v-e-r-y s-l-o-w-l-y so that the shuttle valve in the P-valve body doesn't activate. Attempting to bleed the brake system 'quickly' will trigger the valve and prevent bleeding all of the trapped air in the system. (That may be why the bleeding process you are using worked when the P-valve was out of the system.)
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Did you bleed the system after changing the P-valve? Also, when doing the bleeding process, you have to push the brake pedal v-e-r-y s-l-o-w-l-y and release it v-e-r-y s-l-o-w-l-y so that the shuttle valve in the P-valve body doesn't activate. Attempting to bleed the brake system 'quickly' will trigger the valve and prevent bleeding all of the trapped air in the system. (That may be why the bleeding process you are using worked when the P-valve was out of the system.)
Excellent advice !!!
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:11 PM
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Bleed for 5 hours good pedal.I may bleed it again.just thought it was strange happening right after I changed the valve.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 01:37 PM
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Bleed all the lines "at" the prop valve but especially the line going to the RF caliper. Then rebleed the RF caliper.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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It's the left front.It pulls to the left.I hope its just a matter or air.my brother has talked about buying ever since I bought it.If I can get most of my money back out of it I may just let him have it.I will explain what he's getting into.I never seen him keep a car more than 3 or 4 years anyway.some lee than 3 months.If I let go my next car will probably be a mid 50s to mid 60s.something I will not have trouble getting in and out of in the future.havent made my mind up on selling it.I looked at lot of them before I bought this one.they all had rusty frames to some extent.this one had none period that's why I bought it.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 02:25 PM
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If it pulls to the left, then the right caliper has the air (air in the system will prevent full apply of the caliper, thus, solid braking on the left and weak on the right).
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 05:26 PM
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Your right.I was at the grocery store trying to type with my girl friend nagging at me about eating better.Im lucky I can eat at all.my dentist patched up me up till I can get some implants put in.this just ain't been my week.I hope that's all it is.I have had the crud for two and half weeks.this junk has been going around at work like crazy.I feel like I have been on antibiotics for ever.

Last edited by rugerm44; Apr 29, 2011 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 08:08 PM
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The front brake portion of the P-valve is just a junction block, nothing in there to cause difference in pressure side to side unless the body was mis-machined. I suppose anything is possible with the import stuff these days so if further bleeding doesn't help, put the old valve back on.

Gary

What year is your car? If you have a 75-82 that actually has a proportioning valve (earlier cars had just a differential failure warning valve) I have replacement seals and instructions on how to rebuild it so you can do it yourself.

Last edited by Duke94; Apr 29, 2011 at 08:13 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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Thanks for the offer but its a 71.I just put proportioning valve in the title for a lack of a better word for it.I didn't think it had much to do with it.Its just strange that it didn't do it before I put it on.I installed a new booster and mastercylinder and bleed the brakes and it didn't pull to one side and I know I didn't bleed all the air out.I then installed a set of oringed calibers and bleed it and after a battle I got a good pedal.no pulling to one side.then I figured I had the new switch andit was the only thing I haven't replaced. I couldn't leave could enough alone.so I installed the new switch and now this.go figure.
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 12:05 AM
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To replace the block you have to open up the brake lines which will introduce air into the system again. And that means you are back to bleeding your brakes again until you get the same hard pedal you had before.

I agree with you on one of your posts. Sometimes we need to leave well enough alone and not keep tinkering with it.

kdf
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Old Apr 30, 2011 | 07:04 AM
  #12  
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I knew I would have to bleed it to replace it.I should have put the darn thing up until the switch went bad or just pass it on to the next guy.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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I got around to bleeding the brakes again.took care of the pulling to the right problem.took it for a spin to cheer myself up.I found out today when I went to the dentist I have cracked a crowned tooth.with two implants and two new crowns Im in the 7,000 dollar range.after insurance 5 grand.Ouch the tooth dosent hurt but my wallets killing me.man am I in the wrong biz.2,500 an implant.you know what a plumber and a dentist have in common.they both have their hand in your wallet.
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Old May 6, 2011 | 08:25 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by rugerm44
I got around to bleeding the brakes again.took care of the pulling to the right problem.took it for a spin to cheer myself up.I found out today when I went to the dentist I have cracked a crowned tooth.with two implants and two new crowns Im in the 7,000 dollar range.after insurance 5 grand.Ouch the tooth dosent hurt but my wallets killing me.man am I in the wrong biz.2,500 an implant.you know what a plumber and a dentist have in common.they both have their hand in your wallet.
I hear ya man. The dentist (aka stick-up artist) told my wife he wanted $32k to fix my wife's teeth. I'm voting for dentures.
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Old May 6, 2011 | 10:33 PM
  #15  
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That sounds like there putting in all implants for that price.I know my problems are nothing compared to to some others.Its just seems like one thing after another.I sprained my ankle yesterday for the 5th time.weak ankle.most of the time when I turn it I can just walk it off but it got me this time.once you stretch the tendons I don't think they are ever the same again.my body is like my car.when you think everything is going along pretty well you find something else wore out.at least I can replace parts on the car.can't say the same for me though.have a good one.If your wife gose with the dentures you may want to look into many implants.they help hold the denture in place better than the adhesive products.
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