1981 Engine Upgrades ????
#21
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
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L81 has low compression from BOTH dished pistons AND large combustion chambers. Same reason ralphbh installed L98/ZZ4 heads w/ small 58cc chambers.
Suggest start by clearing a spot in your garage-shed for a motor buildup; locally find a core 350 sbc with iron Vortec heads. Look for 8th character in vin is "R" in about '96-2000 GM lite&medium pkp, van, suv. Spend a couple hundred on the junkyard L31 rebuildable core; rebuild it for less than $2K making honest 400fwhp ... install when you're done.
Or buy same roller vortec, dynoed, ready to go, from YearOne CT350PC1 for about $3K.
http://www.yearone.com/yodnn/tech/Te...7/Default.aspx
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/p...VF73496&trk=12
Suggest start by clearing a spot in your garage-shed for a motor buildup; locally find a core 350 sbc with iron Vortec heads. Look for 8th character in vin is "R" in about '96-2000 GM lite&medium pkp, van, suv. Spend a couple hundred on the junkyard L31 rebuildable core; rebuild it for less than $2K making honest 400fwhp ... install when you're done.
Or buy same roller vortec, dynoed, ready to go, from YearOne CT350PC1 for about $3K.
http://www.yearone.com/yodnn/tech/Te...7/Default.aspx
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/p...VF73496&trk=12
#22
Melting Slicks
The L-81 actually has 624 castings. They're moderate performance light casting heads. You should be able to get decent HP with the right mods to this motor. It was rated at 190hp and 280 ft/lbs torque so increasing this without spending the all the $2000 on one set of heads shouldn't be too hard. There's more to performance and drivability than putting all the money in the motor. The guy only wants to spend $2000 not break the bank.
#23
Team Owner
That's what I heard....
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
Take all the pollution control stuff off.
Disconnect the ECM
Replace the distributor with a vacuum advance unit.
Replace the non-adjustable carb and put a good intake on it.
Put headers on with true dual
Put a decent under .500 lift cam in there so you won't need head work.
And lastly get rid of those 2.72 gears and you will love the car. Go with maybe 3:55 or 3:73.
You just spent your 2K without getting broke.
Disconnect the ECM
Replace the distributor with a vacuum advance unit.
Replace the non-adjustable carb and put a good intake on it.
Put headers on with true dual
Put a decent under .500 lift cam in there so you won't need head work.
And lastly get rid of those 2.72 gears and you will love the car. Go with maybe 3:55 or 3:73.
You just spent your 2K without getting broke.
The L-81 actually has 624 castings. They're moderate performance light casting heads. You should be able to get decent HP with the right mods to this motor. It was rated at 190hp and 280 ft/lbs torque so increasing this without spending the all the $2000 on one set of heads shouldn't be too hard. There's more to performance and drivability than putting all the money in the motor. The guy only wants to spend $2000 not break the bank.
Umm what did you hear exactly?
J.
#26
Melting Slicks
I had an 81 and I never liked the ecm control. There's more flexabilty without it I assume but if you would like to work within the capabilties of that system then you'll have to pick some heads about mods to your stock setup.
#27
Drifting
Thread Starter
I guess for me... I would like to be told(if it is working) if something is wrong...
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
Is changing the gears something that I would want to do myself, or get someone to do it for me. I am trying to find a thread on how to change..but no luck as of yet
#29
Race Director
It takes quite a bit of precision. I've seen it done, and it is not rocket science, but I'd rather pay someone to do it than have to pay for another set of gears because I botched the job.
#30
Drifting
[QUOTE=Dose11;1577763652]If the ECM works...why should it be disconnected? Sorry if these are dumb questions. What is a good tried and true intake and carb
No reason it SHOULD be disconnected if it is working well. I ripped mine out because I like to drive it. I looked at it this way: If it starts running poorly with the CCC system, you pull the codes (which are very ambiguous) and then you hope you can discern from the codes what the problem is, a sensor(many) or some issue with a carb that was only on the 81 (and Cali cars in 80 on the 305). If you have a timing issue it is not simple to put it where it gives the best performance, can be done but tricky. The CCC does a good job of locking the converter but you can wire a switch or buy a controller for B&M. I also read from certain guys that driveability and idle and start up are better with the computer, I call baloney on that.(disclosure) My computer I don't think, was working all that good I concede, it ran fine and idled ok but my mileage sucked. I assume it had a bad sensor and was running rich to compensate......however, My car now with a regular Qjet from a '79 L-82, regular HEI dist with vacuum advance starts on first twist, idles so smooth if you didn't hear the pipes you wouldn't know it is running. Carb and dist both set to Lar's specs. The 20MPG ain't bad either. So I guess if the CCC is working fine it is OK....until you need to work on it. I bought a low mileage Qjet that I barely had to touch and a new HEI dist both for under 200 bucks total. SO the short answer(too late) is do what you want, the performance and driveability is a wash on either. You get more ability to adjust and modify a lot simpler without the computer, but it depends on you. Oh and the engine compartment is a lot cleaner without all the smog crap, and all of those computer wires and superfluous lines and hoses associated with the computer.
No reason it SHOULD be disconnected if it is working well. I ripped mine out because I like to drive it. I looked at it this way: If it starts running poorly with the CCC system, you pull the codes (which are very ambiguous) and then you hope you can discern from the codes what the problem is, a sensor(many) or some issue with a carb that was only on the 81 (and Cali cars in 80 on the 305). If you have a timing issue it is not simple to put it where it gives the best performance, can be done but tricky. The CCC does a good job of locking the converter but you can wire a switch or buy a controller for B&M. I also read from certain guys that driveability and idle and start up are better with the computer, I call baloney on that.(disclosure) My computer I don't think, was working all that good I concede, it ran fine and idled ok but my mileage sucked. I assume it had a bad sensor and was running rich to compensate......however, My car now with a regular Qjet from a '79 L-82, regular HEI dist with vacuum advance starts on first twist, idles so smooth if you didn't hear the pipes you wouldn't know it is running. Carb and dist both set to Lar's specs. The 20MPG ain't bad either. So I guess if the CCC is working fine it is OK....until you need to work on it. I bought a low mileage Qjet that I barely had to touch and a new HEI dist both for under 200 bucks total. SO the short answer(too late) is do what you want, the performance and driveability is a wash on either. You get more ability to adjust and modify a lot simpler without the computer, but it depends on you. Oh and the engine compartment is a lot cleaner without all the smog crap, and all of those computer wires and superfluous lines and hoses associated with the computer.
#31
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
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FWIW: the stock exhaust on the 81-82s (and 80 California cars) flow well and are some of the best GM ever made available. They are stainless steel and amount to factory short tube headers.
#32
Drifting
Remember, it is a first generation computer, it does not tell you what the problem, is and how to fix it, it simply gives you its interpretation of what is going on. From there you need to try to figure out what is the issue, or which sensor is bad etc...
#33
Drifting
Thread Starter
#34
Drifting
Only the manifolds are stainless. the 2 into 1 into 2 exhaust is still restrictive. And the factory headers are very small and only marginally better flowing than cast iron ones. A good set of long tube headers and true dual 2.5 inch pipes are still a huge upgrade. In my opinion.
#35
Drifting
Thread Starter
or the other option
Pull all the crap...drive it...and when its not running right....try to figure out the issue???
Am I reading into this correctly...you guys tell me...but what it sounds like is that the Computer just monitors the system...and when theres a problem...it just says..."Hey theres a problem" but doesn't tell you what the problem is.
So you guys think Pull ALLLL computer stuff Emission crap, ecm, ccc, no prom.....
So then what is needed a new distributer??? and what else?
#36
Drifting
Ahhh...so if engine light pops on...i pull the codes...I am still going to have to hunt around and try to figure out the issue????
or the other option
Pull all the crap...drive it...and when its not running right....try to figure out the issue???
Am I reading into this correctly...you guys tell me...but what it sounds like is that the Computer just monitors the system...and when theres a problem...it just says..."Hey theres a problem" but doesn't tell you what the problem is.
So you guys think Pull ALLLL computer stuff Emission crap, ecm, ccc, no prom.....
So then what is needed a new distributer??? and what else?
or the other option
Pull all the crap...drive it...and when its not running right....try to figure out the issue???
Am I reading into this correctly...you guys tell me...but what it sounds like is that the Computer just monitors the system...and when theres a problem...it just says..."Hey theres a problem" but doesn't tell you what the problem is.
So you guys think Pull ALLLL computer stuff Emission crap, ecm, ccc, no prom.....
So then what is needed a new distributer??? and what else?
#37
Melting Slicks
If you eliminate the ecm you have to replace the original distributor with a similar HEI distributor that has vacuum advance. Your's doesn't have the VA and you will also need to replace the carb because you can't adjust it, maybe somebody knows an easy way around that. If you're trying for more HP, than you'll need a carb that you can tune to what your needs are. In my experience, it was really waking the motor up. Follow my first post and you'll be happy.
#38
Drifting
Thread Starter
If you eliminate the ecm you have to replace the original distributor with a similar HEI distributor that has vacuum advance. Your's doesn't have the VA and you will also need to replace the carb because you can't adjust it, maybe somebody knows an easy way around that. If you're trying for more HP, than you'll need a carb that you can tune to what your needs are. In my experience, it was really waking the motor up. Follow my first post and you'll be happy.
#39
Team Owner
Well, you first said that you wanted the best performance upgrades for your '81, but had less than $2K to spend. Since you took issue with my response [a comment to others that would have you install a 'new crate motor'], maybe you misstated your intentions to begin with.
You have a decent engine/control system to start with..but, for all I care, pull all the good stuff off {because some ignorant folks are telling you to} and make it look and run like a piece of junk...
You have a decent engine/control system to start with..but, for all I care, pull all the good stuff off {because some ignorant folks are telling you to} and make it look and run like a piece of junk...
#40
Drifting
Well, you first said that you wanted the best performance upgrades for your '81, but had less than $2K to spend. Since you took issue with my response [a comment to others that would have you install a 'new crate motor'], maybe you misstated your intentions to begin with.
You have a decent engine/control system to start with..but, for all I care, pull all the good stuff off {because some ignorant folks are telling you to} and make it look and run like a piece of junk...
You have a decent engine/control system to start with..but, for all I care, pull all the good stuff off {because some ignorant folks are telling you to} and make it look and run like a piece of junk...