C3 power window switch troubleshooting
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: webster ny
C3 power window switch troubleshooting
I just finished up troubleshooting my drivers side power window problem.
The window would go down, but not up - occasionally it would engage up but the problem has steadily gotten worse.
I removed the side panels exposing the window switches.
Removed the switch and did a continuity test from the +12V terminal to each side of the switch. I discovered that one side of the switch had about 1.5 ohms of resistance with the switch engaged, and the other side had .5 ohms of resistance with the switch engaged.
After disassembling the switch I discovered that the contacts on one side were corroded and pitted. These cleaned up nicely with a small file. The resistance was rechecked and verified to be .5 ohms on both sides of the switch.
A deoxit spray was applied to the terminals and the switch was reassembled.
The window now works perfect and I saved about 30 dollars for a new switch.
Time will tell how long the repair works.
If you are in a bind and need a quick fix this is doable.
The window would go down, but not up - occasionally it would engage up but the problem has steadily gotten worse.
I removed the side panels exposing the window switches.
Removed the switch and did a continuity test from the +12V terminal to each side of the switch. I discovered that one side of the switch had about 1.5 ohms of resistance with the switch engaged, and the other side had .5 ohms of resistance with the switch engaged.
After disassembling the switch I discovered that the contacts on one side were corroded and pitted. These cleaned up nicely with a small file. The resistance was rechecked and verified to be .5 ohms on both sides of the switch.
A deoxit spray was applied to the terminals and the switch was reassembled.
The window now works perfect and I saved about 30 dollars for a new switch.
Time will tell how long the repair works.
If you are in a bind and need a quick fix this is doable.
Last edited by Hef; Sep 25, 2011 at 03:45 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
You have performed the repair in the best available method. The only thing I would have suggested you do differently is to use dielectric grease, rather than a [thinner] spray.
The original switches are much better quality than the aftermarket units. They have lasted 40 years and, as you have noted, the contacts were only corroded/lightly burnt and will still clean up nicely. Most aftermarket unit will only last a couple of years without some further trouble. For those who have bought aftermarket switches and have yet to install them, you can improve the life of those new switches by putting some dielectric grease on the contacts (if you feel comfortable doing a disassembly/reassembly of the switch).
The primary mode of failure for the stock switch is that the contacts will blacken/corrode/burn and generate a resistance layer than needs to be removed. Repairing them as you have done will allow those switches to last at least 100 years of servicible life.
The original switches are much better quality than the aftermarket units. They have lasted 40 years and, as you have noted, the contacts were only corroded/lightly burnt and will still clean up nicely. Most aftermarket unit will only last a couple of years without some further trouble. For those who have bought aftermarket switches and have yet to install them, you can improve the life of those new switches by putting some dielectric grease on the contacts (if you feel comfortable doing a disassembly/reassembly of the switch).
The primary mode of failure for the stock switch is that the contacts will blacken/corrode/burn and generate a resistance layer than needs to be removed. Repairing them as you have done will allow those switches to last at least 100 years of servicible life.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: webster ny
Thanks for the feedback you obviously have some experience with the failure modes on these parts.
Its good to know that the stock parts are better than the aftermarket parts. I do agree with the dielectric grease idea, wish I had done that.
Another issue with the repair that I didnt mention is that the tabs that you bend in to secure the circuit board become fatigued as metal will, and one of them broke on me.
This is bad, as it allows the circuit board to flex down with the pressure applied by the switch, reducing the contact force and subsequent poor connection.
I ended up squeezing in the housing gently to secure the board, and I used some JB weld in the corners to ensure the circuit board will not move.
Hopefully you are right about the 100 years!
Hef
Its good to know that the stock parts are better than the aftermarket parts. I do agree with the dielectric grease idea, wish I had done that.
Another issue with the repair that I didnt mention is that the tabs that you bend in to secure the circuit board become fatigued as metal will, and one of them broke on me.
This is bad, as it allows the circuit board to flex down with the pressure applied by the switch, reducing the contact force and subsequent poor connection.
I ended up squeezing in the housing gently to secure the board, and I used some JB weld in the corners to ensure the circuit board will not move.
Hopefully you are right about the 100 years!
Hef
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Thanks for the feedback you obviously have some experience with the failure modes on these parts.
Its good to know that the stock parts are better than the aftermarket parts. I do agree with the dielectric grease idea, wish I had done that.
Another issue with the repair that I didnt mention is that the tabs that you bend in to secure the circuit board become fatigued as metal will, and one of them broke on me.
This is bad, as it allows the circuit board to flex down with the pressure applied by the switch, reducing the contact force and subsequent poor connection.
I ended up squeezing in the housing gently to secure the board, and I used some JB weld in the corners to ensure the circuit board will not move.
Hopefully you are right about the 100 years!
Hef
Its good to know that the stock parts are better than the aftermarket parts. I do agree with the dielectric grease idea, wish I had done that.
Another issue with the repair that I didnt mention is that the tabs that you bend in to secure the circuit board become fatigued as metal will, and one of them broke on me.
This is bad, as it allows the circuit board to flex down with the pressure applied by the switch, reducing the contact force and subsequent poor connection.
I ended up squeezing in the housing gently to secure the board, and I used some JB weld in the corners to ensure the circuit board will not move.
Hopefully you are right about the 100 years!
Hef
Delco box but made in China.....what has the world come to!!!!I do the same for just about all the original parts. I'll try to fix them first.
Last edited by jdp6000; Sep 27, 2011 at 09:00 AM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: webster ny
I prefer fixing over replacement as its generally cheaper and if you do it right you get good results. Fortunately this forum is available to help us do it yourselfers.
I am currently struggling with rebuilding my calipers for the front.
The passenger front worked but the drivers side front is still leaking after 2 consecutive rebuilds.
All of the pistons have some level of pitting, and one has a tiny little nick in the top edge of the bore.
I am planning on removal and taking another look to determine which piston/bore is leaking, and go from there.
I am currently struggling with rebuilding my calipers for the front.
The passenger front worked but the drivers side front is still leaking after 2 consecutive rebuilds.
All of the pistons have some level of pitting, and one has a tiny little nick in the top edge of the bore.
I am planning on removal and taking another look to determine which piston/bore is leaking, and go from there.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
I prefer fixing over replacement as its generally cheaper and if you do it right you get good results. Fortunately this forum is available to help us do it yourselfers.
I am currently struggling with rebuilding my calipers for the front.
The passenger front worked but the drivers side front is still leaking after 2 consecutive rebuilds.
All of the pistons have some level of pitting, and one has a tiny little nick in the top edge of the bore.
I am planning on removal and taking another look to determine which piston/bore is leaking, and go from there.
I am currently struggling with rebuilding my calipers for the front.
The passenger front worked but the drivers side front is still leaking after 2 consecutive rebuilds.
All of the pistons have some level of pitting, and one has a tiny little nick in the top edge of the bore.
I am planning on removal and taking another look to determine which piston/bore is leaking, and go from there.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,371
Likes: 223
From: Beecher Illinois
Also, pay attention when disassembling. If you put the guts back in 180* off the switch will work opposite
I had to pull one back out and open it up again! One switch pushed forward would open, the other would close.I've been suggesting this repair for years but it seems everyone just wants to buy a new one
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