I just finished removing and cleaning all of my front suspension components and am wondering what to do next. I really like the way the cast spindles, carriers, and caliper mounts look all polished up from the cleaning and wondered if I could throw some clear engine enamel on there and bake it on, probably do the drag link as well. It'd be some work to keep them wiped clean and good looking vs painting them black but..... A-Arms would get painted black like stock, basically it would just be the bits attached to the wheel between the front arms.

Please weigh-in!

 

I would do painting with cast iron gray engine enamel. That would be somewhat resistent to chemicals when cleaning inthe future and still have a similar gray appearance.

 

Good suggestion, some of the gray cast iron paint looks good, you can also use a good primer under the cast iron colored paint, something that you can't do if you want a clear coat directly on the part. Much more durable ans looks about the same.

 

VHT makes a good cast-iron colored paint and that's what I would recommend for coating cast iron parts. For steel parts, clear engine enamel (like Dupli-color) works well. It just needs to dry for a few days to completely cure before you reinstall them.

P.S. Don't put paint on any threaded areas that will be engaged with other parts.

 

Hi gb,
I've used some regular semi-flat clear on typically 'natural' steering and suspension parts and have been happy with the protection from rust. I just dusted on a very light coat. The car does sleep in a basement garage though, so I'm not sure how long such a light coat of clear would last out in the elements.
Worth a try?
Regards,
Alan

 

Sounds like i have a few options that will work, now I guess I just have to figure out how I want it to look in the end. i've been looking for pics of different paint schemes under the car but haven't come up with much. Any suggestions on where I might look for under carriage pics? Thanks again all!

 

My strategy was to have a C3 that appeared to be in original configuration and condition. But, there will be no 'bare metal' conditions (except for stainless steel and chrome parts). I have about 10-12 different paints and coatings so that I can appropriately put a coating on all bare metal parts and have their apprearance look 'correct' but stay that way for many years. It has taken some time and trial & error to come up with the products that do this the best for the least amount of money, but I'm very happy with my results.

P.S. If I ever figure out how to post photos to the Forum, I'll share them with you folks too!

 

Hi gb,
I'll suggest you buy the NCRS "80-82 Technical Information and Judging Guide" ($30) which will probably have the most information about original frame and running gear finishes. You can then decide how far you want to go in duplicating them.
It's a lot of fun! But... can also get pretty crazy!!
Regards,
Alan

 

"It has taken some time and trial & error to come up with the products that do this the best for the least amount of money, but I'm very happy with my results".

You're seriously going to leave us hanging with that comment!? How about some details on what those products were and how they worked for you?

 

Alan, thanks for the pics, that is about what I'm going for but if it turns out that nice, the rest of the car is going to look like it's in shambles comparatively.....

 

OK:
exhaust manifolds - Seymour Cast Blast ceramic cast-iron colored hi-temp (1900F) paint; it bakes to ceramic finish as you drive it.

engine- {easy & OK} Duplicolor engine enamel; {more trouble, but best} Eastwood epoxy paint in Chevy engine orange

Alternator and other aluminum parts (that can be separated for treatment)- VHT aluminum...baked as prescribed; Duplicolor engine enamel in aluminum color if parts of an assembly and/or can't be baked.

Chassis - {easy & OK} Rustoleum semi-gloss black; {better} Eastwood chassis black epoxy paint; {best, but most costly & difficult} POR15

Other bare metals - Duplicolor Engine Enamel clear; VHT cast iron (if it will get hot) Duplicolor Engine Enamel cast iron (if it will not get very hot), aluminum; Stamped steel-Duplicolor High Performance Wheel Coating in 'silver'; exhaust pipes/mufflers-VHT aluminum.

Brake calipers - whatever color you want but must be able to handle 500F minimum.

Interior [black] trim/exterior trim/engine compartment surfaces/wheelwells- Krylon semi-flat black; John Deere-Blitz black; other brands satin black. {These items should NOT be painted semi-gloss black}

Engine compartment [black] components and accessories - semi-gloss black.

Metal items that were originally gold zinc chromate [vacuum actuators/horn relay cap/etc] - strip and buff metal surface, paint with Duplicolor Self-Etching (olive drab) primer, Duplicolor Gold metallic GS-100, followed by spritzes of Duplicolor Metalcast paint in Anodized green and Anodized red colors (very faintly in 'patches' and sprayed while the gold paint is still wet), and final coat with Dupicolor Engine Enamel clear while all paint is still wet. Let dry for a couple of days before handling.

Rally Wheels - Seymour Ralley Wheel paint in Argent Silver

There are probably some others, but those are the primary paints/coatings I have used.

Hope that helps.

 

All I have to say is that somebody needs to help 7T1vette figure out how to post pictures! That is fantastic, thank you and I appreciate the thoroughness for sure. That's a lot of paint and a lot of work, some of it very creative like the gold / zinc parts, well done and I'm sure it looks fantastic. I will post some pics of my project as I get to the point where I can paint. Right now it's just a lot of angle grinding and cleaning which is rewarding, but seeing it come together all painted up..... Really looking forward to that!

 

I've used por-15 clear engine enamel with decent results. Just cleaned the bare metal parts then painted them with the clear. Por-15 is a self leveling paint. My brother used Shark Hide on his intake. That's a very durable clearcoat used on the Horsepower tv shows.

 

Hi gb,
If you have Eastwood Products send you a copy of their catalogue, you'll see they have a wide selecton of finishes to use. Many of them are similar to what 7T1 suggests.
Regards,
Alan

 

I probably have almost as many different paints and coatings but mine aren't nearly as organized.