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Bad ball joint??

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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 10:18 AM
  #1  
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Default Bad ball joint??

I rebuilt my front suspension last winter, using a rebuild kit from a Corvette vendor who shall remain nameless. I've had a couple odd symptoms in my last couple of rides, and I'm wondering if I've got a bad part. First, I was turning left into a parking space and my steering locked for a moment; I was able to muscle it back to center. A week or so later I noticed a knocking sound from the area of the driver's side front wheel when going over small bumps at about 35-40 mph. To me that means a bad ball joint, but there are no more than a few hundred miles on these parts; I don't want to replace the ball joints if these symptoms indicate a different problem. All parts are tight and (appear) in good condition. Rag joint is good, steering box was just rebuilt and wheel clearance is good. I had it professionally aligned and it drives great except for the symptoms I described.

Anything else I should check before I conclude I got a bad joint in the kit and just get to work replacing them? Thanks, Chris
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Rally68
I rebuilt my front suspension last winter, using a rebuild kit from a Corvette vendor who shall remain nameless. I've had a couple odd symptoms in my last couple of rides, and I'm wondering if I've got a bad part. First, I was turning left into a parking space and my steering locked for a moment; I was able to muscle it back to center. A week or so later I noticed a knocking sound from the area of the driver's side front wheel when going over small bumps at about 35-40 mph. To me that means a bad ball joint, but there are no more than a few hundred miles on these parts; I don't want to replace the ball joints if these symptoms indicate a different problem. All parts are tight and (appear) in good condition. Rag joint is good, steering box was just rebuilt and wheel clearance is good. I had it professionally aligned and it drives great except for the symptoms I described.

Anything else I should check before I conclude I got a bad joint in the kit and just get to work replacing them? Thanks, Chris

I just posted in my Moog thread about a ball joint issue I was having
You might start by jacking up the car and removing the front wheels, then have someone slowly steer lock to lock while you check the ball joints for noise. Use a stethoscope or piece of tubing held to your ear if you have to (just keep your fingers out of the way!)
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rally68
I rebuilt my front suspension last winter, using a rebuild kit from a Corvette vendor who shall remain nameless. I've had a couple odd symptoms in my last couple of rides, and I'm wondering if I've got a bad part. First, I was turning left into a parking space and my steering locked for a moment; I was able to muscle it back to center. A week or so later I noticed a knocking sound from the area of the driver's side front wheel when going over small bumps at about 35-40 mph. To me that means a bad ball joint, but there are no more than a few hundred miles on these parts; I don't want to replace the ball joints if these symptoms indicate a different problem. All parts are tight and (appear) in good condition. Rag joint is good, steering box was just rebuilt and wheel clearance is good. I had it professionally aligned and it drives great except for the symptoms I described.

Anything else I should check before I conclude I got a bad joint in the kit and just get to work replacing them? Thanks, Chris
Make sure that a bushing is not the cause. Is the alignment feeling different? If so the alignment shims may have fallen out. Not sure if that would cause the steering issue, but i recommend a complete look over of all of the components before buying anything. And look hard at the steering compnents and tie rods.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 81pilot
Make sure that a bushing is not the cause. Is the alignment feeling different? If so the alignment shims may have fallen out. Not sure if that would cause the steering issue, but i recommend a complete look over of all of the components before buying anything. And look hard at the steering compnents and tie rods.
I've inspected everything. The car is on a lift so I'm able to get a good look...all bushings are new, shims are in place. Going to get the wheels off the ground and take another look this afternoon.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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If you search back you might find where a vendor from FL who shall remain nameless was getting ball joints from China that failed prematurely...
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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You can test the 'slop' in ball joints by prying the tire up and down (with front wheels off the ground) and looking for 'free' motion in the joint. If you find such a condition, I would highly recommend that you take digital photos of the extremes of that free motion and send a written letter and those photos to the vendor requesting what correction he/she would offer in your behalf. Selling unhardened (or underhardened) ball joints is a threat to your personal safety and the various Safety Commissions would frown upon any vendor selling such items and not making correction for any bad product sold.

If that vendor isn't willing to at least replace those parts with quality pieces at no cost, I would be forwarding your letter and photos to every Highway Safety Commission group (for your area) that could be found. A proper correction for selling that kind of cr@p for safety related components would be that the vendor also pay for a reputable repair shop to do the work in lieu of your lost efforts of installing that junk in the first place! But, that's probably too much to expect.
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 01:58 PM
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I am on my 3rd replacement of lower ball joints, (70 SB Vert). Using Raybestos Professional grade this time, I hope they last longer than 18 months.
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 09:10 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
You can test the 'slop' in ball joints by prying the tire up and down (with front wheels off the ground) and looking for 'free' motion in the joint. If you find such a condition, I would highly recommend that you take digital photos of the extremes of that free motion and send a written letter and those photos to the vendor requesting what correction he/she would offer in your behalf. Selling unhardened (or underhardened) ball joints is a threat to your personal safety and the various Safety Commissions would frown upon any vendor selling such items and not making correction for any bad product sold.

If that vendor isn't willing to at least replace those parts with quality pieces at no cost, I would be forwarding your letter and photos to every Highway Safety Commission group (for your area) that could be found. A proper correction for selling that kind of cr@p for safety related components would be that the vendor also pay for a reputable repair shop to do the work in lieu of your lost efforts of installing that junk in the first place! But, that's probably too much to expect.
You need to have the weight of the car supported on the lower A-frame to do the pry test. Otherwise you will be trying to push against the spring and you will not see the slop (if it is there).
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 09:27 PM
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Moog joints are old news, their time has come and gone.
At best they are made in Mexico now and receive a lot of complaints on their quality. Workers have posted info on them shutting down and moving tooling there.
I switched to http://www.xrfchassis.com/ for my own stuff.
Great quality and good price.
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