Didn't have much of a choice.....

Plug wires are in, I was re-installing the headers when I had to stop working for the evening.....I'll finish up tomorrow and post up with a full report

 

I got them back in July so not long. I did pull them a few weeks back for a quick check. The ceramic boots looked as good as new and I saw nothing out of the norm when checking with the ohmmeter.

If my longer term experience is as good as others who've installed them, I'll be happy.

DC

 

Ok, got the 68 going with new plugs and new wires and....same problem
I did notice that these Accel boots don't fit as tightly as the MSD ones did...of course I didn't find this out till the wires were cut and installed.....the part of the wire that snaps onto the end of the plug fits fine, and the car runs great, just this one little issue

Everyone has been very helpful so far, any more suggestions?

 

If you would have got a pre-cut Wire Set for your application, you could have returned them. I did this on a Jacobs wire set for full refund thru Jegs.

 

If the car runs fine I would just keep the hood closed at night

Really thought the wires would be the answer.

 

Were the new plugs the same brand as the old plugs? If so, maybe try a different brand of plugs.

 

Pre-cut wires always seem to be too long, at least when I have bought them for other vehicles in the past....the Accels are what were recommended, so that's what I went with

Yeah, I thought so too.....but since the new wires didn't change anything, would this indicate a problem somewhere else in the ignition system?

Yep, replaced with AC Delco's, same part#
Champions were suggested earlier in the thread any other recommendations?

 

This is interesting....I have a set of Autolights for my truck, the porcelin part is .025 larger that the Delco's, and fit somewhat more snugly in the ceramic boot....can't use them because they are a tapered seat, but now I'm thinking I may take my dial calipers into the parts store and see what else they have

 

Here's the latest....I tried the Autolites, same result
After checking online and talking to some of the electronic techs here at work, I think what I'm getting is the 'corona' effect, that is, the air around the plug being ionized. The online descriptions say a 'glow' where as I'm seeing more of a 'flickering' around the plug, but the engine does not have any miss to it and runs fine

Anyone have any more suggestions?

 

I went with a set of MSD's Super Conductor premade set for my 1970 Big Block with headers, and there was only one wire that was too long by about 3" ... and that was running them over the top of the valve covers at the very back .

 

Have you talked to a spark plug mfg'rs Tech , or, Accels Tech on this issue ????

 

This is just a suggestion on my part,

The voltage is supplied by the dist to the plug, the plug has a ground strap that is grounded through the threads of the plug to the heads.

Try using a set of jumper cables and ground the head to the battery and see if this resolves the issue, if so look for a bad ground to the block, maybe even try a ground wire to each head.

I know its out there but its easy to try.

Neal

 

Waiting to hear from Accel and MSD....good luck getting through to Autolight....as I have to work during the day, I don't have the time to sit on hold for very long, so I sent requests for support on both websites....will report if and when I hear something

I tried your idea Neal, with a jumper attached to the neg post I tried the block, heads, intake, distributor body, even the MSD box, no change
Good idea though, it was worth a shot

 

Randy,
I think you oughta change your medication! The CORONA effect?????? What the hell.....???? There's nothing Toyota about your car, or wasn't last time I saw it. What have you changed?

Regards from Down Under.

aussiejohn

 

C'mon George, you've been on this forum long enough that you should have learned by now that the ballast is there to limit current, not voltage. Twelve volts hits that coil every dwell time. The ballast isn't a voltage regulator.

You're in the performance car business. Don't be spreading 1950s myths.

 

I heard from both MSD and Accel

MSD's response:

Dear Sir:



Is the arcing occurring such as a lightening bolt would ‘snap’ or is it more like a glow and sound like sizzling bacon?



If glowing that is a common problem and is know as a corona. There is no damage being done it is just an anomaly when the right atmospheric conditions are present and is sometimes referred to as “Saint Elmo’s Fire”. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Elmo's_fire



If snapping like a lightening bolt then to might have a carbon arcing problem and the energy is looking for the easiest path to ground.



You might also make sure that the engine is grounded directly to the block using a double aught cable (.00) and then from that point on the block using a 10 gauge or thicker wire to each cylinder head.



This assures that the best possible ground exists between the battery and the engine. DO NOT rely on frame or chassis grounds. (see attachment)



Thanks,

MSD Tech

The attactment the tech is referring to shows a pic of a big block and where to run ground straps to each head, just as chevymans 77 suggested




Here's Accels response:

Why you are experiencing this type of effect is related to one thing. The wires for the spark plug boot are close to metal so this is why you are seeing somewhat of a light show. What is happening is that spark is jumping from the wire to the engine block. Simply pull the wires back away from the block. Thank you


I'm not sure he understood the question correctly, as the spark is not jumping anywhere

George, no ballast resistor required for the 6A box that I have, thanks for the response

Thought you were going to give me chit about the effects of too many Corona's