Parking Brake Console Quality
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
I bought a new one some 16 years ago at the Carlisle show in Pa. and it's been a basket case since then....must have repaired it 50 times, got more fractures than the earth's crust....and any replacement needs to support ME getting in/out of the car, with cushion....as I lean on it like James Dean when driving too....
so Keen, is your cover there about grenade proof?? is it made of full fiberglass and not some casting??
PM or email me with info....I tempted to try it just to put this PIA to bed for a change...if you can go the 40 buck price, and it's real fiber reinforced glass, it's worth a try....
GENE
so Keen, is your cover there about grenade proof?? is it made of full fiberglass and not some casting??
PM or email me with info....I tempted to try it just to put this PIA to bed for a change...if you can go the 40 buck price, and it's real fiber reinforced glass, it's worth a try....
GENE
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 65
From: Kissimmee fl
Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified
2017 C3 of Year Finalist
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
When I got my car, the parking brake console was in good shape and I wanted to keep it that way. I made my own cushion for the console, made it 3 inches thick and layered the foam inside, 2 in on the top, a layer of 1/16th in. lexan, then 1 in on the bottom. The lexan will not break and spreads out any pressure I may put on the console getting in or out. Been on there for 13 years now. 
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,380
Likes: 788
From: Redondo Beach, California
I've bought two repro center e-brake consoles for my 68. One from Corvette Central (?) and one from Dr. Rebuild. They both were manufactured by EC Products. (Everything Corvette) I bought an EC Products console for my 70 from EC and it's OK. The 68 is awful. If there's an alternate vendor, I'll be glad to try.
......................
Sad story. I was so proud that my factory stock 68 e-brake console was in mint condition. It was perhaps 3 or 4 years ago, I was sitting in the 68 and decided to get out. Without thinking, I placed my right elbow on the console to help push myself out of the car. CRACK!! I cracked the console. I would be so happy to buy a stock looking replacement. The EC Products repro,has a mottled surface that definitely doesn't look stock.
I once was able to get a telephone call through to the head guy at EC. At least ways I think he was the head guy. I had a concern with the quality of one of their products. I wasn't being aggressive, I just wanted to know if there was anything I could do to make the part fit, etc. He hung up on me.
......................
Sad story. I was so proud that my factory stock 68 e-brake console was in mint condition. It was perhaps 3 or 4 years ago, I was sitting in the 68 and decided to get out. Without thinking, I placed my right elbow on the console to help push myself out of the car. CRACK!! I cracked the console. I would be so happy to buy a stock looking replacement. The EC Products repro,has a mottled surface that definitely doesn't look stock.
I once was able to get a telephone call through to the head guy at EC. At least ways I think he was the head guy. I had a concern with the quality of one of their products. I wasn't being aggressive, I just wanted to know if there was anything I could do to make the part fit, etc. He hung up on me.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,380
Likes: 788
From: Redondo Beach, California
Do you make your part 800066, 68 Console without power windows, by yourselves? I would be happy to try buying one from you. IF YOU ARE JUST RESELLING AN EC PRODUCTS ITEM, I DON'T WANT IT. As I've written I've already bought two of them land they are junk.
Anyhow, thanks for remanufacturing this product, if this is the case.
Reply? Thanks!!!!
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Dec 17, 2011 at 08:53 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
A cracked original housing is easily fixed. Only when you have loose pieces does it become a problem to repair. A little smear of 2-part epoxy (the liquid stuff in the tubes....I like JB Weld adhesives) on the fractured edges that protrude on the inside surface of the part, then snap that piece (or those pieces) back in correct position. Putting the epoxy on the edges of the 'inside' pieces should keep the glue from getting to the outer surface of the part. If a little does, just use a wooden toothpick to clean it up.
When cured, also put a fiberglass or plastic support patch on the inside of the cracked area so that the part will have more strength at that point than it originally had. Make sure the thickness and location of the patch doesn't interfere with reassembly and/or reinstallation of the e-brake housing. If you need to recolor the repaired part, use liquid SEM 'ColorCoat' vinyl dye mixed to your interior's GM color code. If you don't have spray equipment, buy a $10 bottle/gas-canister sprayer [Pre-Val] where you buy the SEM.
When cured, also put a fiberglass or plastic support patch on the inside of the cracked area so that the part will have more strength at that point than it originally had. Make sure the thickness and location of the patch doesn't interfere with reassembly and/or reinstallation of the e-brake housing. If you need to recolor the repaired part, use liquid SEM 'ColorCoat' vinyl dye mixed to your interior's GM color code. If you don't have spray equipment, buy a $10 bottle/gas-canister sprayer [Pre-Val] where you buy the SEM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
A cracked original housing is easily fixed. Only when you have loose pieces does it become a problem to repair. A little smear of 2-part epoxy (the liquid stuff in the tubes....I like JB Weld adhesives) on the fractured edges that protrude on the inside surface of the part, then snap that piece (or those pieces) back in correct position. Putting the epoxy on the edges of the 'inside' pieces should keep the glue from getting to the outer surface of the part. If a little does, just use a wooden toothpick to clean it up.
When cured, also put a fiberglass or plastic support patch on the inside of the cracked area so that the part will have more strength at that point than it originally had. Make sure the thickness and location of the patch doesn't interfere with reassembly and/or reinstallation of the e-brake housing. If you need to recolor the repaired part, use liquid SEM 'ColorCoat' vinyl dye mixed to your interior's GM color code. If you don't have spray equipment, buy a $10 bottle/gas-canister sprayer [Pre-Val] where you buy the SEM.
When cured, also put a fiberglass or plastic support patch on the inside of the cracked area so that the part will have more strength at that point than it originally had. Make sure the thickness and location of the patch doesn't interfere with reassembly and/or reinstallation of the e-brake housing. If you need to recolor the repaired part, use liquid SEM 'ColorCoat' vinyl dye mixed to your interior's GM color code. If you don't have spray equipment, buy a $10 bottle/gas-canister sprayer [Pre-Val] where you buy the SEM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati OH
Do you make your part 800066, 68 Console without power windows, by yourselves? I would be happy to try buying one from you. IF YOU ARE JUST RESELLING AN EC PRODUCTS ITEM, I DON'T WANT IT. As I've written I've already bought two of them land they are junk.
Anyhow, thanks for remanufacturing this product, if this is the case.
Reply? Thanks!!!!
Anyhow, thanks for remanufacturing this product, if this is the case.
Reply? Thanks!!!!
Feel free to call me if you have any more questions, or would want to order one for yourself!
800-757-KEEN
513-353-3449
-Ian, Keen Parts
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Well, I ordered one fron Ian at Keen, and hope I see it in one piece in this Christmas rush, with my luck it lands on bottom of the sleigh with a engine block on top of it.....if it survives that, I should survive ME....
I not sure how I going to install it, I have never used the two screws on the front sides, and not the one in back either, it just sets there...I dont think that's the issue with it breaking though....
I not sure how I going to install it, I have never used the two screws on the front sides, and not the one in back either, it just sets there...I dont think that's the issue with it breaking though....
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Leaving that rear bolt out may, in fact, be a primary reason for the destruction of that housing. If it cracks along the side seams [on the top surface], the load placed on it is causing the housing to spread and focus the stress on those seams. Having the housing bolted properly will keep it more rigid and retain its shape to the stress can be dispersed.
I would suggest that you take that rear bolt and cut the head off, then round off the stub. When you are ready to install the housing, screw that stub into the threaded plate (on the inside/rear of the housing), then put a nut on the inside and lock it down securely so the 'stub' won't come loose. Then, just insert that stub into the bolt hole on the rear bulkhead and lower the front of the housing into place [following the assembly process required], and install the two front screws.
The housing will be secured and you'll never have to fight with that bolt again.
P.S. I still highly recommend getting the cushioned "T"-pad to put on top of that housing...so you can actually use it as an arm rest and to re-position yourself.
I would suggest that you take that rear bolt and cut the head off, then round off the stub. When you are ready to install the housing, screw that stub into the threaded plate (on the inside/rear of the housing), then put a nut on the inside and lock it down securely so the 'stub' won't come loose. Then, just insert that stub into the bolt hole on the rear bulkhead and lower the front of the housing into place [following the assembly process required], and install the two front screws.
The housing will be secured and you'll never have to fight with that bolt again.
P.S. I still highly recommend getting the cushioned "T"-pad to put on top of that housing...so you can actually use it as an arm rest and to re-position yourself.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Timely post.
I purchased the cheapest console i could - i better not say from who until i look at the receipt.
It has been 10 years since install but it cracked enough to ruin it when i put in new carpeting more recently. And that cheapie replacement never lined up right for the mounting screws - it took a lot of persuasion. And that console needs be reliable enough to access the shifter boot, e-brake, window switches, etc.
Thx for posting Tom,
cardo0
It has been 10 years since install but it cracked enough to ruin it when i put in new carpeting more recently. And that cheapie replacement never lined up right for the mounting screws - it took a lot of persuasion. And that console needs be reliable enough to access the shifter boot, e-brake, window switches, etc.Thx for posting Tom,
cardo0
