Valve Covers
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Advanced
Joined: Dec 2011
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Valve Covers
I have the alum Chevrolet valve covers, original, motor rebuild was in Ohio, I am in VA. It will be my last item for awhile, (Last leak that is)tranny and steering is going in now, all new.
So do I ditch the long V cover bolts?
Is there a torque number and sequence?
What brand of gasket?
I don't understand why they are leaking... ???
I miss the old girl and I have only had her a week... Dropped by the shop yesterday. For a 41K mile car, it needs a lot of love.
Bryan
So do I ditch the long V cover bolts?
Is there a torque number and sequence?
What brand of gasket?
I don't understand why they are leaking... ???
I miss the old girl and I have only had her a week... Dropped by the shop yesterday. For a 41K mile car, it needs a lot of love.
Bryan
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 572
Likes: 1
From: Cooksville Maryland
DC Area Events Coordinator
Do NOT use anything but a nut driver - screw driver to tighten. Less is more. I use a simple cork gasket with those same covers. I put gasket tack only between the cover and the gasket. Nothing on the head side. No leaks at all.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Chrome stamped covers present the same sealing troubles as painted stamped units....except they also have slick, chromed rails on the underside of the lip.
You need to use a medium sandpaper to scuff up that underside surface of the sealing lip. Then you need to use paint thinner, brake cleaner, or other volatile cleaner to wipe off any and ALL oil/grease from the head casting rail and the underside rail of the cover. If you want to guarantee that they will not leak, you also need to make certain that the cover rail is FLAT, without any dimples around the bolt holes. Get Fel-Pro cork/rubber gaskets and put a light coat of Permatex No. 2 gasket sealant on both sides of the cover gasket. Then install the gasket and cover, put torque-spreaders on top of the bolt holes and install bolts to 45 inch-pounds (about 3 foot-pounds).
I know of no other way to get stamped, chromed valve covers to seal well.
You need to use a medium sandpaper to scuff up that underside surface of the sealing lip. Then you need to use paint thinner, brake cleaner, or other volatile cleaner to wipe off any and ALL oil/grease from the head casting rail and the underside rail of the cover. If you want to guarantee that they will not leak, you also need to make certain that the cover rail is FLAT, without any dimples around the bolt holes. Get Fel-Pro cork/rubber gaskets and put a light coat of Permatex No. 2 gasket sealant on both sides of the cover gasket. Then install the gasket and cover, put torque-spreaders on top of the bolt holes and install bolts to 45 inch-pounds (about 3 foot-pounds).
I know of no other way to get stamped, chromed valve covers to seal well.
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
I am not sure, car had many issues this week. I get her back tomorrow. New tranny in. All new pads and rotors, today was a bad seal on right front.
I can do simple projects (I am far from a motor head) and think I can do the seat latch and Valve covers, all great advice. I will take my time and see how I make out. I am not afraid to get dirty, I am just not good at it... I break more than I fix....
Thanks
Bryan
I can do simple projects (I am far from a motor head) and think I can do the seat latch and Valve covers, all great advice. I will take my time and see how I make out. I am not afraid to get dirty, I am just not good at it... I break more than I fix....
Thanks
Bryan
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 572
Likes: 1
From: Cooksville Maryland
DC Area Events Coordinator
You, my friend, are more talented than you think. You reached out to this forum which is a good example of your resourcefulness! Certain rules to remember that I tell my sons as they work on their cars.
1. Never force anything. If it is loose and viable to be removed, remember that it went in a certain way so figure out that way and remove it in the same way.
2. Calibrate your hands to RESIST the temptation to tighten a bolt beyond it's limit. If there is a need for it to be really tight, use a torque wrench with a given measurement. If just tightening a random non loaded bolt, get the FEEL of that fine line between tight and shear-off-the-bolt tightness.
3. NEVER put yourself in danger. It is just not worth it.
4. There is very little on a car that can't be fixed with money, time, or a mixture of the two. Don't get depressed because something is wrong.
5. And the most important part.... You may feel really bad if the car part breaks because of something stupid that you did. Relax, re-focus, and purchase another part, then DON'T do what you just did, again.
I have been restoring cars for the better part of 40+ years. I am on my 46th car and I am 55. My son is 17 and enjoying his Mustang GT. Between the Vette and the Mustang, we are having a blast! Enjoy the ride!
1. Never force anything. If it is loose and viable to be removed, remember that it went in a certain way so figure out that way and remove it in the same way.
2. Calibrate your hands to RESIST the temptation to tighten a bolt beyond it's limit. If there is a need for it to be really tight, use a torque wrench with a given measurement. If just tightening a random non loaded bolt, get the FEEL of that fine line between tight and shear-off-the-bolt tightness.
3. NEVER put yourself in danger. It is just not worth it.
4. There is very little on a car that can't be fixed with money, time, or a mixture of the two. Don't get depressed because something is wrong.
5. And the most important part.... You may feel really bad if the car part breaks because of something stupid that you did. Relax, re-focus, and purchase another part, then DON'T do what you just did, again.
I have been restoring cars for the better part of 40+ years. I am on my 46th car and I am 55. My son is 17 and enjoying his Mustang GT. Between the Vette and the Mustang, we are having a blast! Enjoy the ride!
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 233
Likes: 9
From: Marietta Ga
Advance Auto parts will sell a number of varieties of valve cover gaskets for a SB 350. I just bought a set from them....be sure the gaskets fit your valve covers. The L82 cast aluminum covers don't take the "double bolt hole" on the gasket. Part # VS 50265 for the cork gaskets. They worked out fine....just be sure they fit first.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 6
From: Tucson AZ
St. Jude Donor '12
You, my friend, are more talented than you think. You reached out to this forum which is a good example of your resourcefulness! Certain rules to remember that I tell my sons as they work on their cars.
1. Never force anything. If it is loose and viable to be removed, remember that it went in a certain way so figure out that way and remove it in the same way.
2. Calibrate your hands to RESIST the temptation to tighten a bolt beyond it's limit. If there is a need for it to be really tight, use a torque wrench with a given measurement. If just tightening a random non loaded bolt, get the FEEL of that fine line between tight and shear-off-the-bolt tightness.
3. NEVER put yourself in danger. It is just not worth it.
4. There is very little on a car that can't be fixed with money, time, or a mixture of the two. Don't get depressed because something is wrong.
5. And the most important part.... You may feel really bad if the car part breaks because of something stupid that you did. Relax, re-focus, and purchase another part, then DON'T do what you just did, again.
I have been restoring cars for the better part of 40+ years. I am on my 46th car and I am 55. My son is 17 and enjoying his Mustang GT. Between the Vette and the Mustang, we are having a blast! Enjoy the ride!
1. Never force anything. If it is loose and viable to be removed, remember that it went in a certain way so figure out that way and remove it in the same way.
2. Calibrate your hands to RESIST the temptation to tighten a bolt beyond it's limit. If there is a need for it to be really tight, use a torque wrench with a given measurement. If just tightening a random non loaded bolt, get the FEEL of that fine line between tight and shear-off-the-bolt tightness.
3. NEVER put yourself in danger. It is just not worth it.
4. There is very little on a car that can't be fixed with money, time, or a mixture of the two. Don't get depressed because something is wrong.
5. And the most important part.... You may feel really bad if the car part breaks because of something stupid that you did. Relax, re-focus, and purchase another part, then DON'T do what you just did, again.
I have been restoring cars for the better part of 40+ years. I am on my 46th car and I am 55. My son is 17 and enjoying his Mustang GT. Between the Vette and the Mustang, we are having a blast! Enjoy the ride!
Great write up of some very sage advice!I'll pass along a version of it to my son
