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Headlight bezel screw hole shot!

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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 03:49 PM
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Default Headlight bezel screw hole shot!

One of the molded screw holes in my driver-side headlight bezel has cracked and is now too large to accept the screw head which can't grip the plastic and hold it in place...



It should look like this...



Any ideas on how I can rebuild the material maybe with an epoxy?
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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I would just use epoxy as you mentioned. Others have used it on the metal ones when the threads were stripped.

I was thinking about the head light brackets not the bezel itself, but it still might work.

Last edited by Roco71; Jan 10, 2012 at 04:22 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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Yeah I think I might be able to even copy the shape with cutting up some pieces of card stock and using epoxy.

It's not under too much stress especially since the opposite hole is in tact. Just need a surface for the screw to grip.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 04:58 PM
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A little epoxy and a drywall anchor.

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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 05:39 PM
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Clever! I think if trimmed down the anchor could replace and recreate the missing shape pretty well. I might give that a try!

What size did you use? I need to take the screws to the store to measure the threads anyway as I need to re-tap or helicoil one of the holes in the aluminum housing. They should have cast a metal bracket to add support. Oh well, that would have been extra $
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 05:51 PM
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Get a flat washer that will allow the screw shank to pass through it, but is large enough to cover the enlarged hole. After wire brushing the back side of the hole and the washer, attach it to the back side of the bezel with JB Weld putty epoxy (stick type). Leave enough excess epoxy on the washer so that it fills that hole; then use a toothpick to clean the area for the 'repaired' hole. Use some touch-up paint to recolor the epoxy that shows on the bezel face, when the epoxy hardens. Those screws are not meant to have much torque applied to them (10-15 in-lbs; about 1 ft-lb); so be gentle when you install the screws so that you don't pull your repair out.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbotrad
Clever! I think if trimmed down the anchor could replace and recreate the missing shape pretty well. I might give that a try!

What size did you use? I need to take the screws to the store to measure the threads anyway as I need to re-tap or helicoil one of the holes in the aluminum housing. They should have cast a metal bracket to add support. Oh well, that would have been extra $
Size depends on the size of the screw and I do not have that info for that application. They go on with epoxy or JB Weld. You cut the far end off before doing the job and they sit nicely, nearly flush to the mounting surface. The screw will expand the plastic and they will never move again. A 25-cent fix.

Last edited by Paul L; Jan 10, 2012 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Get a flat washer that will allow the screw shank to pass through it, but is large enough to cover the enlarged hole. After wire brushing the back side of the hole and the washer, attach it to the back side of the bezel with JB Weld putty epoxy (stick type). Leave enough excess epoxy on the washer so that it fills that hole; then use a toothpick to clean the area for the 'repaired' hole. Use some touch-up paint to recolor the epoxy that shows on the bezel face, when the epoxy hardens. Those screws are not meant to have much torque applied to them (10-15 in-lbs; about 1 ft-lb); so be gentle when you install the screws so that you don't pull your repair out.
I think this is the easiest solution. I already have some JB Weld in stick form, now to get a washer. Oh, and in case anyone wants to know the machine screw size is 8-32.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 04:43 PM
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Success! I used the JB Stik technique with great results. I first attached a 8-32 washer to what remained of the original drilled hole. When that cure I shaped some more to cover the opening. When it all cured I sanded it to shape with my Dremel.



Oh and I also drilled a hole in a block of scrap wood, filled it with JB Stik and tapped a 8-32 thread in it. I was curious to see if I could thread in a machine bolt and pull out the threads with my bare hands. I could not.

If you strip the bezel mounting holes in the aluminum casting, you could either tap to a larger size (IE 10-32) or re-tap 8-32 using JB Stik. I have no doubt the the threads could handle the load of the lightweight bezel.

I guess you really CAN tap threads in JB Weld. Just don't over torque...

-Brad

Note: The block of wood is making a cameo appearance in the background of this picture.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 05:39 PM
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Hi Brad,
NICE!
Regards,
Alan
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Glad all went well.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 08:28 PM
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well i'll tell ya wut i do with problems like this. put a piece of hay bale string next to it n light a match. i melt in some more plastic to this spot n let it harden. it's great too cuz they make hay bale strings in every color u could want. i even used this to repair a broken fan shroud. it held fine til i kicked it to get it in place. big mistake there. have done this to repair the plastic grill inserts too, but it's hard to make that look good
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 11:12 AM
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funny....
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