Disco_Mike

The rear wheel bearings need to be rebuilt. How difficult are they to remove? I would like to remove them, then send away to a vendor for rebuilding. 1979

Peterbuilt

Rear bearing replacement is difficult and you need some special tools.
http://www.duntovmotors.com/tech-rear-spindle.php

ted13b

I had mine rebuilt by Van Steel, very happy with there work. It's not an incredibly difficult project, depending on your skill level, about a 6 on a 1-10 scale, but time consuming. The toughest thing is driving the shock mount out of the strut rod where it bolts up to the hub. There is a special tool available for this, but a forum member recommended a threaded pipe cap that I picked up at Home Depot. Thread it over the threads on the strut mount and pound away...it worked great. It you're reasonably handy, it's definitely do-able. (I'm assuming you meant to remove the whole hub assembly and send it out to be rebuilt.)

75vetteman

uh yeah uh RUN FOR UR LIFE! i tried this last week jus for the heck of it. i wouldn't attempt this again unless i pulled the TAs out first. removing the half shaft was the easy part. the hardest part for me was forcing out the spindle. i tried a large deep well socket over the threads n hittin it with a hammer, a slide hammer on the flange, it really requires a 20 ton press as so many people have said before. good luck though. if u come up with a trick to gettin it out let me know. i'd like to attempt this again... later

Disco_Mike

(I'm assuming you meant to remove the whole hub assembly and send it out to be rebuilt.)
Yes this is what I meant. thanks ted!

I assumed it would be time consuming.

7T1vette

You need to assess the condition of the trailing arm (T/A) bushings, also. If those [front] bushings are still in decent conditon, you can have a mechanic (skilled in C2/C3 Corvette component work) replace just the bearings {and maybe do some e-brake refurb, if necessary} for reasonable money. If you want to do the work, and have the skills and equipment needed to do it, go for it. Otherwise, find a good Corvette mechanic and let the 'expert' do that work.

If the T/A bushings are 'toast', also, you might consider removing the T/A assemblies and having them rebuilt or exchanging yours for some already rebuilt units. That is probably the right way to go for someone who does not want to DIY them.

DJ Freddie

Help...
The popping sound from my left rear I'm hearing on my 76 occurs only after the car has traveled about ten miles or so and it feels like the brakes are sticking (but brakes are definitely not sticking). I can only hear it at very slow speeds, forward and backwards. It only lasts for about 10 or 15 feet and goes away. When I first back it out of the garage I don't feel or hear anything. When I jack the car up I dont feel any play, motion, or unstability in my wheel that would indicate bearings to me. I hate to tackle removing the trailing arm if its not a bearing. I read the posts earlier about a shim worn out and it sounds like my symptoms as I can actually feel the pop/bump in the seat. Feels like I'm rolling over gravel with metal wheels. It only does it when I have applied brakes and start back off. If I allow the vehicle to stop on its on on a long hill and take off..I don't feel of hear anything. When I'm driving it only occurs sometimes when I take off from a standstill, not always. I'm puzzled. If I remove the end cap, will I be able to tell if I have bearing issues or not? Is there another way to evaluate whether its a bearing issue or not. What else could it be? Why doesnt it do it all the time? Any help would be much appreciated. Obviously I'm new member of this forum. I love the indepth details.
Thanks,
Freddie

gbarmore

Hi Pete, at the very bottom of that article on Duntov's site it says "Ship your spindle tools back to us, along with all your unused shims for a credit of $100 plus $1 per shim". Any idea if they just "Rent" out all those tools? More likely you have to buy a rebuild kit or something from them to get the tools, but.. I have the bearing set-up tool but would like the install tool as well and am running short on cash for all the once-and-done tools.

Peterbuilt

Hi Greg,
That's a good question but my guess it that you have to buy the parts from them. A call to them will get the answer.
I've never done business with them, I carried my trailing arms to Corvette Etc.
I'm a hobbyist not a mechanic, I'm OK with remove and replace but I'll leave rebuilding to someone who knows what there doing.
Regards,
Pete.

Retro78

How do you know the brakes are not sticking? I bet they are. The rubber lines degrading from the inside out can cause this.

Retro78

Yes, difficult. As per the above posts, suggest you look to VBP or another todo them. By the time you get the tools and fuss around might as well get them done professionaly. Clearance needs to be tight.

DJ Freddie

Thanks....I will have them done as soon as can locate a corvette mechanic in the Greensboro, NC area. Rubber lines replaced.
Freddie

Peterbuilt

Good question, we may be getting ahead of ourselves here.

original76

Called a couple of places and was quoted $500 to $600 to replace spindle bearings. Then I looked in my 76 file and found where I'd paid $605.49 in 2000. I think 5-600 was not replacing spindle. They replaced the spindle, bearings, sleeve and seals. Checked pricing and found by even replacing spindle I could do the job for around $300. Jacked the car up crawled under and began the job. I turned the castle nut around and beat the spindle out with a sledge hammer. Found the spindle to be in fine shape and bought parts for $84.95 that included quick ship as it was late in the day and shipping. Ladies and gentlemen the difference between a shop and do it yourself is a lot of whisky money. And not cheap whisky!

bobs76stingray

Jack up the car on that side and place your hands in the 3 and 9 oclock positions and see if there is any side to side movement,if there is the rear wheel bearing assembly needs replaced,if not its good

lars

In answer to your original question: Removing the rear spindle/bearing/hub assembly so that you can send the assembly out for bearing replacement & rebuild is easy. It shouldn't take any more than about 15-20 minutes per side to pull the assembly out and get it ready for shipment.

Lars

...Roger...

Dang Lars , 15-20 min. is smokin !

redvetracr

he must be using his gas-axe...