Electrical problems
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Tucson Az
Electrical problems
I have two small electrical problems. Would like some insight before I tear apart the dash tomorrow.
Hit a bump the other day and the brake light in the tach came on. Is this light for the emergency brake only? Doesn't seem to affect the brake tail lights
Problem two, Amp gauge doen't work. Never has since I got the car two years ago. Checked the fuseable link at the horn relay and that seems ok. When I pull apart the dash on the passenger side I will check the two post on the gauge to see if there is current. Also what does the little transistor on the back of the gauge do? And is it needed if I buy a new gauge?
Any helpful ideas???
Hit a bump the other day and the brake light in the tach came on. Is this light for the emergency brake only? Doesn't seem to affect the brake tail lights
Problem two, Amp gauge doen't work. Never has since I got the car two years ago. Checked the fuseable link at the horn relay and that seems ok. When I pull apart the dash on the passenger side I will check the two post on the gauge to see if there is current. Also what does the little transistor on the back of the gauge do? And is it needed if I buy a new gauge?
Any helpful ideas???
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Do a SEARCH for info on the ammeter. It is a millivolt-meter calibrated to read AMPS. There is negligible current flowing though that meter.
Usually, one of the [internal] tie-off wires is 'fried' because of some overcurrent condition in the past. You can replace the meter or you can fix it. Up to you....
The "BRAKE" lamp could have gone on because of a couple of reasons:
1. The little switch in the e-brake housing failed at the same time (or because) you hit the bump;
2. The shuttle valve in the Proportioning valve somehow got stuck in a position where the light came on. Is it possible that either the front or rear section of the brake system got damaged when you hit that bump? If so, it would trigger that valve to shut off the 'defective' section and cause the warning light to come on.
Usually, one of the [internal] tie-off wires is 'fried' because of some overcurrent condition in the past. You can replace the meter or you can fix it. Up to you....
The "BRAKE" lamp could have gone on because of a couple of reasons:
1. The little switch in the e-brake housing failed at the same time (or because) you hit the bump;
2. The shuttle valve in the Proportioning valve somehow got stuck in a position where the light came on. Is it possible that either the front or rear section of the brake system got damaged when you hit that bump? If so, it would trigger that valve to shut off the 'defective' section and cause the warning light to come on.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
The brake warning light is a direct function of a switch on the hand brake handle or at the proportion valve. Would be the place to start checking.
The ammeter is connected through the body connector to 12V at the horn relay and the starter cable. Both wires to it will be 12V. Check the body connector for corrosion. A simple touch of a 1.5 V battery across the terminals will deflect the gage if it is good.
I have no idea what you mean by Transistor. There is a resistor on the back of the gage.
The ammeter is connected through the body connector to 12V at the horn relay and the starter cable. Both wires to it will be 12V. Check the body connector for corrosion. A simple touch of a 1.5 V battery across the terminals will deflect the gage if it is good.
I have no idea what you mean by Transistor. There is a resistor on the back of the gage.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: some hole in the ground town- camp verde:) arizona
for the brake light issue i'd like to throw in my 2 cents. mine came on because i had just replaced more parts of the brake system and had air in the lines. caused the valve to move and make contact with the terminal or whatever it's called and complete the nice little circuit that puts a little red glow on the dash.
i've been told that you can reset the valve by a hard braking. before you try this though it's best for confirmation, so does anyone know if this is true? if true this is only a fix if you have no actual problems with the brakes such as air in the lines.
i've been told that you can reset the valve by a hard braking. before you try this though it's best for confirmation, so does anyone know if this is true? if true this is only a fix if you have no actual problems with the brakes such as air in the lines.
