How in the heck are you supposed to remove the nuts from the studs at the lower edge of the center cluster. There is absolutely no room to get a tool in there to remove the nuts (I don’t want to have to remove the center console...I would mess that up too). This is the only thing keeping me from removing the center instrument cluster on my 71. After I replaced the speedometer cable, I thought I would replace all the light bulbs in the instrument panel while I had it apart. Those two little nuts are kicking my butt. For a work around, I thought I would just try to reach around and replace the bulbs from behind the panel until I dropped one into one of the gauges. Now I really have to get the center cluster out. I have the left instrument panel out, the right panel out, and the steering column dropped, everything is completely apart except the center cluster because of two nuts located in an unreachable spot. I can't get it out. I desperately need help and suggestions for removing the nuts from the lower studs on the center cluster so I can remove it and suggestions how to remove light bulbs that have dropped into the cluster gauges. Please help.

 

I've pulled my gauge cluster several times for different reasons, fixed the clock, changed stereo's, lights, ...
Can't tell you the "right" way, but here's what I end up doing (1972). (keeping in mind that since it's been in and out several times the nuts run pretty easy on the stud.

Removing both side panels

flashlight from the other side (works better than a trouble light)

Go in with a long series open end wrench (closed end usually doesn't work) and you can just capture the nut, not with the wrench fully on but just enough to kind of get it at an angle.
Now, if the nut is turned so the wrench will not go on, go in with a long, micro set of needle nose pliers and grab the nut and try to turn it the little bit until you can get the wrench on.

The holes the studs go into are slotted on the brace so you should only need to loosen them off about 4 or 5 turns. On mine, once I get about a turn on them I can usually spin the nut freely with the corner of the wrench.

It's probably easier to drop the transmission and cut the tunnel out to get at them.

Seems to me I tried taking the shifter plate out once thinking I could go in from there but the vent lever/cables and bracket made that pretty much just as awkward. If your car is A/C it might help

Mooser

 

Hi w,
It sounds like mosser's system works.
I use a 1/4" drive ratchet and 2 long extentions with a flex joint between them. I reach reach up along side the inside of the shifter console next to the carpet.
The ratchet is in the foot well, and the socket is on the nut... hopefully!!!
It's sorta like a colonoscopy without the prep the night before.
GOOD LUCK!
Regards,
Alan

 

I had the same problem getting to the bolts to spruce up my gauge bezel. About an hour later I decided the bezel looked pretty good just as it is! I think the designer of the Corvette was a sadistic bugger!

 

I use about the same method as Alan71...a 1/4" drive ratchet and other 'hardware'. All you need to do is get them loose; then you should be able to run them off by hand.

When you go back together, replace those retaining nuts with wingnuts; and don't tighten too much. Then, the next time(s), it will be much easier.

 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I will try them all, but first it’s off to Sears this morning. I dropped my socket last night and was unable to retrieve it from under the center console. I figure I will pick up a couple of extensions, flex joint/universal joints, long reach open-ended wrench, and anything else that might help (case of beer). That way I will have everything at my disposal.

How hard is it going to be to get the bulb out of the gauge? Any issues to be cautious of if I have to disconnect the harness and oil pressure gauge line?

 

Once the cluster if tilted forward you have pretty good access to the back. There a a handful of self-taping screws that hold the gauge cluster to the face and you can separate them and leave the wiring and oil press line all hooked.

Change all bulbs while your in there, and make sure they work (leave them on for 10 minutes or so, even a new bulb will usually blow within the first few minutes if there is a flaw)

Watch for the thin section between the gauges and the top (where the vent and wiper switch are) if something is stuck and you start prying on it you'll quickly have a two piece bezel
Mooser

 

No kidding, Sears stores sell beer in Ohio? Buy a magnet with a long, flexible handle while you're there.

 

 

You need to remove the line to the oil pressure gauge first...just as soon as you begin to pull the cluster away from the dash. There is very little "extra" tubing on it.

Get a sheet of little circular stickers and put duplicate numbers on them (two 1's, two 2's, etc.). When you get access to the rear of the cluster, place the stickers: one on a wire and the other where that wire goes. Be careful when you "try" to pull out the bulb sockets. They can break or they can come apart when you pry on them. You may also find that the little metal piece that is pressed into the socket will pop loose. If you have a few that come loose, mix up a bit of 2-part tube epoxy and use a toothpick to put a dab at each slot where the prongs on that metal piece fit back into the socket. Then, when you press that piece back in the socket it will stay for good.

If you can, take a digital photo of the rear of the cluster as you are pulling it out. There's a lot of 'stuff' in there and routing of wires can be a pain.

 

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions.

I got the nuts off the studs using Alan’s method. They have since been replaced with wignuts. When I pull the cluster I found I had a good deal of oil pressure gauge line to work with, so I was able to leave it in place. I removed the self-tapping screws and separated the gauge cluster from the face, to dump the bulb out of the cluster. This also allowed me to push any of the metal rings that separated from the sockets, out the back of the gauge cluster. What idiot designed those sockets? If you don’t apply force at a 90 degree angle, the socket separates from the retaining ring and the bulb is almost sure to fall into the cluster. The inclination is to pull the socket straight out the back of the cluster. The epoxy is a great suggestion.

I was a little disappointed that all the bulbs that were in there were functional. Illumination of the oil pressures gauge is rather poor. It appears to be more an issue of bulb location. Anyway, I was able to get a good look at the under dash portion of the birdcage, hinge pillar and sill. I have right side panel reinstalled, but ran out time before I could get the bulbs replaced in the left hand cluster. I will complete this next weekend and have a look at the left hand hinge pillar and sill before I button everything up (a floor speaker needs to be removed to gain access to the left side hinge pillar).

Replacing one speedo cable sure is turning out to be a lot of work.

Thanks everyone for the help.