overheating at idle only
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 280
Likes: 1
From: cleveland Ohio
ok,good answers,first im going to put the battery back in,start er up.let it run.turn off car,while watching fan.ill get a real reading on the revolutions.i will switch the porting,and adjust idle speed.but im still going to have to wait till summer,to truely know if it will overheat.i never noticed it get that hot in cool weather,like im having now in cleveland.avner,what year shroud did you use,and did it fit and bolt in.i dont know if i want to mess with my orignal stuff,and probably wont,but. also,i did call the guy who timed the car,he wasnt in yesterday,so i still dont know where he set idle timing yet.and easy mike,i shined a mini harbour freight flashlight thru the rad.in all different areas,and the light shown thru good onto the ac condenser.heat riser moves freely.reving the engine at idle,does not help lower temp.i did fatten up the carb.mixture.will get a 1/4 inch phenolic carb.spacer.i do not get hesitation off idle.my headlights work,but slow,dont know its vacuum issue would effect vacuum advance. gents,i need a little time to go thru some of these areas mentioned above.i will stay in touch,thank you everyone,,tom
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The engine has to reach operating temperature...as does the fan clutch...in order to see what it does when you shut off the engine. If the fan clutch is NOT engaged (after reaching required temperature), it will just spin away when you turn the engine off (3-5 rotations, or more). If the fan clutch reaches its engagement temperature, and then you turn off the engine, the fan should only rotate 1-2 revs before it completely stops. That's how you know that the clutch is actually working.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 280
Likes: 1
From: cleveland Ohio
well thanks again 7t1vette,ill try the fan trick in a few days,right now i have the carb. off.i just got finished installing a helicoil in the manifold,one was striped.and am waiting till hopefully tommorrow,to recieve my edelbrock 5/16 in. carb. spacer,from jegs.they say its made of some kind of hardened cardboard? i wanted wood,but couldnt find it in 1/4 or 3/8.also,,most everyone on the forum,says to go with full vacuum,instead of ported,and im for sure going to give to a try,just wondering if there will be any ill effects from this.like pinging,etc.if anyone knows of any known issues with full vac.to the vac.advance can, please let me know.thanks,tom
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Sonoma Ca.
they make different vac. canisters for full or ported vac., if you have the ported canister now you should change it for the manifold vac. can. after you get the carb dialed and you know what your highest HG vac. is at idle you should get a can. that comes in 2#HG below your highest idle HG. the canisters have a code stamped on them, you might have to play with different ones to get it where you like it, its a tuning thing.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The vacuum canisters are the same. The ported vacuum is the same as manifold vacuum...after the throttle plates are cracked. At idle, there is NO vacuum from a ported connection--so it wouldn't matter what can was hooked to it.
