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OK First Things First [Power Windows]

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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 01:24 PM
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Default OK First Things First [Power Windows]

Vette is 1972 Coupe.

OK, I went & did some searching on this site concerning power windows & the problems they cause. I did find some interesting comments, BUT the comments & suggestions I found relating to my problems, I have already tried, to no avail. So, I've decided to start from the beginning.

I have completely rebuilt my whole power window system. This is what I've done so far.

1) Completely disassembled entire power window assembly.

2) Cleaned up all tracks & related items to tracks & lubed.

3) Replaced all regulator assemblies. Did not attempt to rebuild my old ones, just went & purchased complete assemblies.

4) Traded in my old Motors for rebuilt ones.

5) Replace the glass with new.

6) Replaced ALL weatherstripping related to the windows, with brand new.

7) Replaced all other components pertaining to power windows.

As far as I know, ALL components of the power window system, have been replaced.

Also noted, I've completely rewired the Vette, including the wiring for the power windows. The wiring system is an aftermarket one & not the original OEM corvette wiring system. I didn't want the old barrel style fuses, so I opted for a more updated wiring system

The power window switches I'm using are from a late model car, so they have the built in relays, required to reverse the motor direction to put the window up or down.

Now, with all of this said. Here's the problems I'm encountering.

1) no matter what I do, the windows go up & down, what I believe to be too slow. If there is any little bit of resistence at any time the window goes up or down, it will stop. Trying to put the windows up or down with the doors closed is out of the question.

2) The window track that the glass is attached to, hangs up on the motor when the window is operated in the down position & bottoms out, & will not come back up when up position is operated, unless you wiggle the window a bit, to free it up.

Now, here's what I've done.

1) Took out the new regulator, once installed & problems encountered, to ensure that it was installed correctly. Found, after trail & error, that there's only 1 way it can be succesfully installed & work at all.

2) Adjusted the window glass per the install & alignment instructed by Wilcox Corvette's web site. Did the procedure a few times to make sure I was doing it right. As per the Wilcox Corvette instructions, all alignment points looked good. Window look pretty good all the way up & in the weatherstripping like it was described in the instructions. But in order to get the window to go down, I gotta open the door up.

The Switches are working good & work like they should, when operated. The Motors are Getting power.

The Same Problems are present on Both Doors, Driver's & Passengers. & I have replaced everything in both doors as described above.

I have tried many things & did extensive research B4 posting & starting a new thread on this what seems like an endless problem for many.

At his point, I seem helpless & very frustrated.

The one thing that most other Vetters posted is that the power windows to get them right, after a complete restroation, is a PITA. That seemed to be a 100% concenses.

I would glady take my Prize Vette to Someone & just pay them to get this situation right, it would be well worth it. BUT, there are absoulty NO 100% Vette Shops in my Area. Years ago, a real good friend of mine had a shop right here near me, but he's since gone out of business & I've lost contact with him. Last time I heard, He's now doing Landscaping & has his own Business doing that.

This Has been a real challenging Corvette Project for both My Son & I & I have gotten other help with other problems on this Forum along the 'build'. Even though there were small problems with the Vette, like the power windows not working like they should, We managed, for the most part, to get the Vette Completed for the 2012 Detroit Autorama & took first place in our class. Thanks to everyone that help along the way, to get us there. This forum has become a 'God-Send' to both my Son & I.

So, I appeal to anyone, especially the 'experts' to come to my aid & assistance, once again.

Thanks For hearing me out & hope 'ya can help me.

"Cruisin Davey G !"
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 01:30 PM
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CDG,
I don't want to sound insulting. But I have to ask: Is the engine idling when you are powering your windows up and down? The battery alone will not raise our electric windows up with much gusto. Had to ask. Sorry.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by brando1118
CDG,
I don't want to sound insulting. But I have to ask: Is the engine idling when you are powering your windows up and down? The battery alone will not raise our electric windows up with much gusto. Had to ask. Sorry.
No Not Insulting At All. BUT, Yes, I tried the windows with both the engine running & not running. AND, yes, they do go somewhat faster, but not that fast. I also know that Corvettes are nitorious for being a slow moving system, But they still should be able to go up & down with the doors closed.

Thanks for your post !

"Cruisin Davey G !"
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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Do you mind my asking why you needed to work on the power windows? Were they not working? Did they run slow?

Also, did you replace the window switches? Those are notorious for having burned/corroded contacts from years of use. And burned/corroded contacts will add resistance to the circuit and lower the current flowing through the wiring. Result: slow windows.

Also, are you certain that the ground wire going to the motor is well grounded to fresh/bare metal frame surface, and that the wire is still good (inside the insulation)?

Lastly: If none of that helps, how much trouble would it be to swap out one of the "new" motors for one of the "old" ones. I'm not very high on the quality/construction of modern replacement electric motors. Many have lots less coil wire and I doubt they are as powerful or as reliable as the originals. If the windings and commutator of the old motor are undamaged, you can exchange brushes, grease it up, and it will be good for another 20 years. Just some thoughts.... Good luck with it.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Do you mind my asking why you needed to work on the power windows? Were they not working? Did they run slow?

Also, did you replace the window switches? Those are notorious for having burned/corroded contacts from years of use. And burned/corroded contacts will add resistance to the circuit and lower the current flowing through the wiring. Result: slow windows.

Also, are you certain that the ground wire going to the motor is well grounded to fresh/bare metal frame surface, and that the wire is still good (inside the insulation)?

Lastly: If none of that helps, how much trouble would it be to swap out one of the "new" motors for one of the "old" ones. I'm not very high on the quality/construction of modern replacement electric motors. Many have lots less coil wire and I doubt they are as powerful or as reliable as the originals. If the windings and commutator of the old motor are undamaged, you can exchange brushes, grease it up, and it will be good for another 20 years. Just some thoughts.... Good luck with it.

Hey, Thanks for Posting to my thread.

OK to answer the Questions you have posed to me.

The Vette My Son & I are working on, is a project, to say the least. We tore everything litterly apart & wanted to restore the Vette & at the same time add some newer ideas to it.

The Vette had sat prior to us working on it for approx 18 years. So, everything was either old, or not in working condition.

This is Y we went into changing out everything. The Power Windows wern't something that was just done to an already done car.

Everything in this Project Vette was either reworked, changed out, or upgraded, except for the body, which, other than paint, was untouched & is about the only thing stock looking about the Vette. And, the frame, which is the one that came with the Vette & believe it or not, was in pretty decent shape, so it wast just 'blasted', smoothed out & repainted.

When we tore down the power windows. The regulators were in pretty sad shape. The plastic rollers had seen better days & the grease that once lubricated them, was hard. This is what prompted for us to do the restro to the power window system. The motors were no better. When my son went to disconnect one of the plugs from the motor, it just disinigrated, plug & all. Also, the grease on the gears of the motor was hard. So, a restro was in order, since we did just about everything else to the vette, Y not the windows too?

As my original post on the thread stated, I'm using a different switch to activate the windows. These switches are working, because when they're pushed for the windows to go up, the window goes up & visa versa. So, those are working. BUT, are U saying that because they're not original corvette switches, there may be a resistance in current flow to the motors, & restrict the Motors from working properly????

As for the Ground. The Motors are self grounding to the regulator bracket & the metal door. The ground is good, because the motor works, when called for.

I cannot swap back to the original motors I had, because I used them as a core to get the replacements.

Now, I've got a Question. Is it possible to just hot wire the motors themselves from a power source, like the battery, to by pass the wiring in the car, to see if there's resistance to restrict current flow, within the wiring????

Again. Thanks for your help.

As Always, any help is Welcomed. & No Question asked is a Stupid one, the only stupid Question, is the one NOT ASKED.

"Cruisin Davey G !"
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 09:45 AM
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Does Anyone have the Power Windows wiring diagram for a '72 ?

I guess it might help to have it, just in case I need a reference to compare to what I replaced the original wiring with.

Thanks !

"Cruisin Davey G !"
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:43 AM
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Here's all the schematics...
http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/?c=d;o=d
72 does not show the power window diagram but the 74 does.
Yes you can supply 12 volts directly to the motor for your resistance test.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
Here's all the schematics...
http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/?c=d;o=d
72 does not show the power window diagram but the 74 does.
Yes you can supply 12 volts directly to the motor for your resistance test.
Hey, Thanks, for all of those schemitics

OK on the hot wiring the motors directly from the battery.

Like I posted B4. The wiring I'm using is aftermarket. I re wired the whole vette. Everything else works, except for those darn windows. I am also using different switches. Would this make a difference? Do different switches allow for different voltages to power window motors?

The windows are working, but barely. I did notice in the factory wiring schemitic, there is a relay in the power window wiring. I don't think that my new wiring is using a relay for the windows.

So, what is exactly the reason for the relay in the factory wiring to the windows? Does it regulate the amount of voltage going to the motors?

Guess I'll do a voltage reading at the motors to make sure they're getting enuff juice in order to work right. But maybe the hot wire deal I want to do may show something.

Someone suggested that I may not be getting enuff voltage to run the Corvette Motors properly, causing most of the problems I'm experiencing.

Everything is New, so I can't for the like of me, figure out Y it doesn't work.

Oh Well, back to testing.

Many Thanks to everyone 'chiming in' on this thread.

"Cruisin Davey G !"

Last edited by Cruisin Davey G; Apr 10, 2012 at 12:21 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Cruisin Davey G

The windows are working, but barely. I did notice in the factory wiring schematic, there is a relay in the power window wiring. I don't think that my new wiring is using a relay for the windows.

So, what is exactly the reason for the relay in the factory wiring to the windows? Does it regulate the amount of voltage going to the motors?"
No. A small wire and a large wire both send 12 volts to whatever you energize but a big wire can carry more amps.
A relay has small wires going to it, when energized the coil in the relay closes and the contacts send power to your window motor on large wires which deliver more amps.
Look at the starter wire, it is big because it has to deliver lots of amps but it still tests as 12 volts.
Try going from your battery to the window motor with a large wire and see it they go faster.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop
No. A small wire and a large wire both send 12 volts to whatever you energize but a big wire can carry more amps.
A relay has small wires going to it, when energized the coil in the relay closes and the contacts send power to your window motor on large wires which deliver more amps.
Look at the starter wire, it is big because it has to deliver lots of amps but it still tests as 12 volts.
Try going from your battery to the window motor with a large wire and see it they go faster.
So, I should B looking for Amperage at the motors & not so much as Voltage. What amps are Corvette Motors? Or What amps should they be getting in order to work as trhey should?

I'm not a Electrical Guru, by no means So bear with me. But, I have troublesshooting experience with some electrical systems. I do fair better with house or home current.

Thanks again for your help

"Cruisin Davey G !"
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 02:34 PM
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The new regulators come with a bolt in them, you install the motor then remove the bolt.
That gives the spring the correct tension, is that what you did.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by petes74ttop

The new regulators come with a bolt in them, you install the motor then remove the bolt.
That gives the spring the correct tension, is that what you did.
Yes, I got a brand new Regulator from Corvette Central for the driver's side. Came with the bolt in it. My son, installed the motor & regulator together through the access hole, Bolted down the motor & regulator to the door & then took out the bolt. So, it should have tension on it.

I'm beginning to suspect the compatability of the switches I'm using in relation to the Corvette motor. And the fact I don't have any relays in the power wiring system I'm using. None came with it & I was told that, as long as I followed the instructions & put the already labeled wires to the proper places, it should work as wired. Also, I'm gonna check the wiring that I used to make sure it's right. But, the wire I used was marked on it 'power window motor'. The aftermarket wiring system was sort of a 'no-brainer' system, in that all wires to all components in a car are pre-marked, so there can be no mistake.

The wiring system I used is mostly used for street rods & kit cars, but I can see no difference in whatever car it used in, it should work.

Thanks again for posting ! I need all the help I can get.

"Cruisin Davey G !"
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Default OK First Things First [Power Windows]

While I'm At It trying to figure out things.

I would like to know if anyone knows the specs for the power window motors?

Like how much power is needed to drive the motors correctly. Volts? Amps?

The Wiring System I'm using for the power windows is a 30amp circuit. Is this the same as the stock Vette wiring?

Thanks to everyone for all of their help !

Rock On !

"Cruisin Davey G !"
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:19 PM
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I just redid my 1980 windows and encountered similar problems. The windows put a real pull on the electrical system. In working on them, I had let my battery go low and it required recharging to give me full lift. Also, I found that by angling the bottom of the front channel out and the top in as far as possible, the least resistance was created for the lifts. Additionally, I junked the two top clips on the front rubber which were creating both resistance against the lift and making window alignment even more critical than it could be. Hope this helps.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:35 PM
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Default OK First Things First [Power Windows]

Originally Posted by dinodon51
I just redid my 1980 windows and encountered similar problems. The windows put a real pull on the electrical system. In working on them, I had let my battery go low and it required recharging to give me full lift. Also, I found that by angling the bottom of the front channel out and the top in as far as possible, the least resistance was created for the lifts. Additionally, I junked the two top clips on the front rubber which were creating both resistance against the lift and making window alignment even more critical than it could be. Hope this helps.
Yeah, I'm finding out, that, with these windows, ya gotta improvise.

I can't believe that there's no one person that's ever tried to upgrade this terrible system

I know that someone perfected the no vacuum headlight system & made them 100% electric. Same goes for the wiper door on the eailer C3's. So, Y not find a better system for these ancient windows?

Go figure.

I know there's a ton of guys out there fighting to keep these older Vettes in 100% original condition. But, sometimes it can get on your nerves.

Well, I guess, with time, trial & error, & a whole lotta patience, I'll get it right, I'm sure.

Thanks Much for Posting.


"Cruisin Davey G !"

Last edited by Cruisin Davey G; Apr 11, 2012 at 10:57 AM.
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