I am in the process of starting a major resto on my 73 Coupe.
Today, I found serious frame rust on the drivers side between the A Post and the B Post. In places I can push a screw driver thru the frame.

1. What year span of frames will the 73 body mount on, or must it be another 73 frame.

2. What is the weight of a gutted body, doors still on

3. Once I have the body free and ready to lift, what are the lift points. I would like to slide (2) 4x4's between the body and frame and lift on the 4x4's. But where do I start the initial jacking to get it high enough to slide the 4x4's in between the body and frame.

Any tips for a 1 man operation. I live very remote and can expect NO HELP whatsoever.

Sorry I cant search a lot for these answers. Living remote, my internet connection is 'dial up' and I only connect at 24.4K. Posts/threads with pictures can take 5 minutes or more to load.

Thanks for your help

8Valve

 

Can't help you with what frame fits...

But i've lifted my body a few time now by myself with my engine hoist.

I believe I've seen 700lbs tossed around a few times so I imagine the body weighs about that.

many corvette stores sell lifting straps. Usually they're too long and need to be knotted but they get the job done..they grap on to the side rail that the frame sits on.

I'm not a fan of the engine hoist method but it gets the job done and is manageable with only myself there to help.

 

Here's info on what has changed on Frames through the years (looks like you want a 73 or 74 frame):

http://www.71corvette.com/frames.html

I've heard about 600-800 lbs for a gutted body... I would have to guess that your bird cage is gone as well... Any rust around the windshield???

Good luck

Rogman

 

Thanks Guys;

I would fear when rolling the engine hoist with the body hanging,
off th body swinging may upset the works quickly.

I just found this shocking problem late this afternoon. In the morning, I will dig into the Brid Cage area and see if my day is ruined again.

I would guess 73/74 frames in nice condition are very scarce to find.

8Valve

 

there should be used ones around in good shape...just need to look around. I was lucky with mine and found a used 73 frame so it was a direct swap

or you can go with new ones with the option of setting up newer suspension packages
http://www.colliertechnologies.com/products.html
http://www.sriiimotorsports.com/196382corvette.html

 

On my first body lift, I was in your situation and with limited tools. My body was raised by using a floor jack against wood placed against the floor, just inside the frame and along the bonding seam. As one side of the body was raised, I placed wood blocks between the rocker channel and frame. Then, go to the other side and do the same. Once you reach the limit of the floor jack, you need to build a base of wood to raise the jack to get more height. Once the body is high enough, place a couple lengths of lumber across the frame and under the body; be sure it is at a balance point, as you will be raising the rest of the way from that wood. Continue to raise one side at a time until it is high enough for everything to clear the underside. Be sure the lumber is strong enough to support the body weight and extends past the body enough to clear the frame. This is important for later when the frame needs to clear the supports when you pull it out. As the cars comes up, I had a floor jack platform made of cement blocks and wood and the lumber under the car was supported by cement blocks that were progressively raised as was the body. Eventually, I had the car high enough to pull the frame with engine and trans still installed. The fuel tank was removed, as was the carburetor for clearance. The car at that point was supported on the lumber placed under the car earlier and set upon 35 gallon drums. The rear wheels were removed and just a floor jack rolled the car from under the differential. The front tires were removed and rolled on steel wheels. Of course, before doing this, remove interior, hood, radiator, fuel tanks and disconnect all body mounts, ground cables, fuel and brake lines. Don't forget the bumper brackets etc, etc. I assembled the car using the reverse process. It was all done by myself, like you I had no help available and limited tools. While the car is up, it is a good time to clean, mold and paint the underside. This will explain frames and what you might use:
http://www.71corvette.com/frames.html
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Hi 8V,
If I had a car that I cared enough about to do a "major resto" on, I believe I'd take the time to find a replacement frame for which I didn't need to make any excuses for in the future.
A major resto takes a LOT of work and $$, and it's a shame to cut a corner so early on in the process.
I hope your birdcage turns out to be sound!
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

The frame is your foundation. Best to do it right from the start. If the frame is that rough, I'd look very carefully at the birdcage, windshield corners, pillars, header, #2 mount area and #3. All can be repaired if necessary. A matter of $$ and time.

 

Someone has a free frame and body in the classifieds. maybe you could make it work

 

Thanks Guys for all the good info. The Bird Cage area is only very light surface rust. I have located a frame that the seller says is like new. I have a good friend going to check it out tomorrow. If its really good, I will have it shipped.

8Vlave