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I had my car in a shop getting rebuilt/upgraded motor put back in. I had them install a new assist cylinder and control valve. He said he adjusted the lash but something still wasn't right. Well I picked it up yesterday and its just dangerous to drive. When turning left its HARD and the belt squeels. When going right it goes normal for 1/4 turn then it goes FAST and SUPER EASY for 1/4 turn.. when going down the road this means just taking a nice easy right hand turn results in a sudden jerk to the right putting you on the shoulder of the road.
I now have it on my lift. I raised the wheels and went back and forth with the wheel to the stops 20 times and drove it again. No difference. Has this happened to anyone else? I have read a bunch of threads and some information on other sites and I am kinda at a loss here.
Oh, and I can't get my power steering pump cap off all the way because it hits the stock alternator bracket.. but looking down in it, it appears full.
Went to a friends house after he replaced his PS cylinder and the steering acted 'weird'. Jacked up the front, started the car and the wheel went to one side HARD. Hoses to the cylinder were hooked up backwards at the cylinder. Swapped and all was well.
reversed the hoses on mine , caused the steering wheel to turn back and forth ...violently, if I'd had my hand in there when I started my car it would have broke my wrist.
Thanks for the links and responses. Well I put it up on my lift last night and put new powersteering hoses on it. They were installed correctly into the new valve and of course so are the new lines. I also followed the online instructions on adjusting the control valve. Raise front of car, undo piston end of hydraulic cylinder, start car, adjust nut on control valve so the cylinder doesn't go in or out.
I turned the wheel left and right with the car in the air and it did fine but there was a slight "glitch' when turning right. I put it down and test drove, same exact problem as before. Squeeling when going left and major 'skip/glitch' when going right. Ugh!
I just put my rebuilt motor back in and can't safely drive my car
Help! Wondering if I got a bad control valve from Napa
I am so frustrated! I picked up my new control valve. Oddly enough, it appears the one I got from napa the first time and is on my car right now, is a NEW one. The one they just gave me is a remanufactured. I don't really care, I just want one that works. It took me 3 hrs of screwing around to give up. I can't get the control valve off!! It will not turn off the threads, its like the threads are junk on the steering rod. I have a feeling I am going to have to buy a new one of these.. does anyone make them or do I have to buy a used one? sucks!!! I am taking the whole assembly to the shop that did this tomorrow and having them mess with it while I am at work.
PICS!
The new arm has no flat spot.. I cant' remove or tighten the thing without the whole stud rotating
You can see where I beat the crap out of it trying to get it to rotate counter clockwise.. wouldnt' rotate more than 1/2 a turn in either direction!
This is the whole thing I am dropping off. That entire metal bar is what I think I am going to have to get a new one of with some good threads on the end of it!
Get a medium sized flat-bladed screwdriver and wedge it between the clamping lugs (where the locking bolt goes). Then drive it in a bit with a hammer to spread the lugs...just enough to allow the control valve to thread out easily. That's how it's done. Same to reinstall. Count the turns coming out; put it in that same number (not that you can be sure that's what your mechanic did in the first place ).
Good luck!
Just curious... Did you or the mechanic get the control valve from NAPA. If he bought it, then he should have changed it out for nothing. If you brought it to him...it's your nickel.
ha.. I brought the valve to him from napa. The valve is turned all they way on the thing. It appears he just tightned it up all the way on it. I did wedge it apart while hitting it with hammer to rotate... no go. I am online trying to even see if I can buy that whole bar somewhere ugh.. watch me have to eat the 2oo dollar cost of that valve AND get a new bar
If the mechanic you went to was not happy that you brought the part to him to install, "one does not know what he may have done". I find it very strange that a mechanic who installed a P/S control valve..and then finds it doesn't work properly...would just send you "out the door".
Take the rod and control valve to NAPA and have them disassemble it and replace it with the one they are exchanging for it. Then see what happens after reassembling to the car.
well the mechanic shop removed the control valve with a big bar and a vice bigger than mine. The threads were fine he said. So he put the new rebuilt control valve on it, napa took the old one back. I just sanded the goods and put a nice coat of black epoxy on it and its drying now.
The mechanic likes it when I brought him parts so he didn't have to figure out what fit the car and take the time to order the parts.. I took him all parts for my motor project per his request.
As soon as the paint drys, it will be back on the car and I will give another stab at this!! This car will steer!! Gotta try out this new rebuilt motor
Got it in the car, adjusted lash, jacked up front end, went left right 20 times, refilled fluid, drove it for 40 miles. The issues all seem to be gone! Except turning left, the steering wheel gets hard to turn and the belt squeels, unless I turn the wheel veeerry slow. hmmm
Steering was perfect before I replaced these parts. I see other threads on here where others have had the same problem and it was the belt.. I see great results with goodyear gatorback belts.. cross referencing now and ordering up a goodyear belt to install. Maybe the new setup takes more umph to cycle it since its not old and not leaking and the old belt is slipping on the pully. The belt that is on it looks like an old napa belt.
A few things that come to mind reading this thread.
The guy that put the valve on the first time obviously cranked it on solid in the socket since you had so much trouble getting it off. It should be run down till it tightens up and backed off until the bolt relief hole lines up. Are you sure it is mounted straight and not cocked sideways?
I have had a few bad rams. It could be leaking internally causing hard steering in one direction.
You rebuilt the engine. Did you change the pan?
Are you sure it has a PS pitman arm?
Are you absolutely sure the valve is adjusted correctly?