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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:14 PM
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So I'm trying to get my axle half shafts out and after removing the first 15 bolts/nuts without issue I get to the very last one and it just happens to be impossibly stuck. This is one of the four 5/8" head bolts holding the half shaft onto the wheel. Tried a 5/8" box end wrench and it stripped the wrench. Open wrench end slips off with enough force. With a 2ft pipe for leverage around a long non-ratcheting type heavy duty socket wrench it simply ruined the hex socket and stripped the bolt head. I tried cramming abrasive sponge grit into the hex socket but it still strips. I've been soaking this in PB blaster for 2 days and the other 3 bolts in the assembly have been removed already so the PB blaster should be able to get in there. I didn't have half this much trouble getting the shock mounts out. Leverage isn't really the limiter at this point, gripping the bolt head is.

Any ideas?
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:31 PM
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They sell a special wrench for gripping stripped heads.
Also try a little heat - then cool it with PB Blaster.

-W
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:50 PM
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Craftsman makes a socket called bolt-out that should get a grip on the bolt head.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 06:23 PM
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Thanks I'll go check Sears...
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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Sounds like you're beyond the the point I would've gone without using some heat on the female threaded surface. I have the luxury of owning a small oxy/acetylene torch set, and believe me I use it. If wrenching on lots of older cars, a must have really. Gotta do it right though, as I always have a Power Cat air mover going, with fire extingusher and water hose close by.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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If the bolt head is toast, I'd weld another bolt to the bolt head and like was said, use some heat and an impact gun and have at it.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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The stripped bolt sockets were pathetically ineffective, even the 16mm one(slightly smaller than 5/8") couldn't grip it. Bolt head is now almost completely round. I'm think I'm just going to take the trailing arm w/attached shaft out and take it to a machine shop. The differential end is free.

I do have a torch but there's so much PB blaster and road grime in that area that I suspect it will immediately start a fire in my garage.

Last edited by brianPA; Jul 10, 2012 at 08:39 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:30 PM
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Actually, since the mention of an impact wrench, and rounded bolts heads, a thought just came to mind. Some tire stores have impact gripper sockets that bite into locking wheel lug nuts with lost keys. Not sure where you get these, but can't be to hard to find. I'd still use a torch, and shouldn't be to bad cleaning everything up with Super Clean, brush and hosing, or a power washer. As mentioned, good moving some air when torching, plus help dry up your wash job.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:59 PM
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To get those locking lugs off I drive an impact socket that's just a little small over the lug with a hammar and zip them off with an impact gun.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 10:18 PM
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You first need to reinstall the bolt diagonally opposite the one that is locked up. You don't have to torque it much, just snug it up. That will help let the other bolt release when it finally breaks loose, and will prevent damage to that yoke until it is finally removed.
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