Trailing Arm bolt removal
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 747
Likes: 54
From: Dunmore PA
Trailing Arm bolt removal
I have read many posts on the subject but haven't found my answer.
I have the body off and I want to pull the T/A's off. My question is why is this bolt such a problem? I understand the difficulty with the body on but can I just wack it out with a hammer or is there more to it?
I have the body off and I want to pull the T/A's off. My question is why is this bolt such a problem? I understand the difficulty with the body on but can I just wack it out with a hammer or is there more to it?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
The only thing that will complicate it is if the bolt is rust welded to the bushing. Removing the shims and soaking the bolt/bushing with plenty of penetrating oil for several days should help when you wack it with your hammer.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,380
Likes: 6,390
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
That's correct: The bolt, on many Vettes, will rust itself firmly to the steel sleeve in the rubber bushing. This makes it impossible to knock the bolt out of the bushing, especially with the body on, since you can't get a "straight" whack at the bolt without damaging the body: The rubber bushing will absorb the hammer "whack," and the bolt will never come out.
With the body off, you have a straight shot at the bolt with a BFH (Big Hammer), and you have a much better chance at getting it out. You may also be lucky enough that the bolt is not seized to the sleeve, and you'll simply tap it out and not understand what all the fuss is about...
Lars
With the body off, you have a straight shot at the bolt with a BFH (Big Hammer), and you have a much better chance at getting it out. You may also be lucky enough that the bolt is not seized to the sleeve, and you'll simply tap it out and not understand what all the fuss is about...
Lars
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Belle Mead, N.J., U.S.A.
If its anything like mine I wish you luck. Tried every rust busting trick I knew and ended up cutting a sawzall blade in half so it wouldn't bottom out inside the pocket and cut the bolt in half to get it out.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 284
Likes: 4
From: Philadelphia Pennsylvania
My t/a bolts weren't rusted much but they were still a pain to get out because once they're pushed halfway out you can't really hammer them anymore, the bodywork gets in the way. I got them about 80% out by hammering a bent screwdriver through the hole, then had to basically jiggle the trailing arm around while holding the bolt head with a socket wrench until it slowly worked out.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 747
Likes: 54
From: Dunmore PA
Well it looks promising. I took off the bolts and gave them a small tap and they went flush to the frame with no resistance. I didn't have time to take off tonight so I'm not sure. Has any of you used that bushing tool that the vendors sell?
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